Awesome thread! Good info!

 

I am going to be using a 17x9 +49 offset with 255's square all 4 corners on an AP2. I am also lowered about 1.2" on swift spec r springs. I am sure there will be rubbing with OEM fenders.
Will the examples you demonstrated be enough to clear the tyres under compression? The car will be on track a lot and my big fear is connecting tyre to anything and causing damage to rubber or fenders...

 

Yes those are fairly conservative offsets so just a roll, tab relo and maybe a bit more camber and you'll be fine.

 

Thank you! Fantastic write up!

 

good info thanks

 

Take your time with the heat, especially in the front!

 

Hey guys I'm gonna add to this thread only bc I'm going through this now. My wheels are ce28n 17x10 +45 and I have a my 08 cr. I rolled and slightly pulled my front fenders and cut away the edge of the liner a bit. Unfortunately I cracked the paint at the crease so I chipped off the rest under the fender and just spray painted it to protect from rust.
As for the rears I used a Dremel and cut the entire lip off then hand sanded it smooth. Its super clean and saves another 1mm or 2mm. Spray painted it again to protect from rust. Tabs were not relocated just bent up and out of the way using the same mounting points.
Now for clearance. I previously had my alignment set to zero camber all around on stock suspension. Just before putting on my wheels today I lowered it on swift spec r springs. I'm assuming my camber has increased due to it being lowered.
Anyway surprisingly my rears just barely clear at full compression (+/- 1mm). As for the fronts, even with the slight pull it doesn't fit. Ill either need to pull some more or camber it aggressively.
My concern is even with a generous pull and camber won't fender still bottom out with the tire at full lock? I don't see how it wouldn't hit it especially through some spirited driving...

Oh btw I'm running 255/40 tires square

UPDATE:
Just got an alignment everything stock with swift spec r springs. -2.9 camber front with 0 toe and -2.1 camber rear with .2 toe.
My fronts don't rub at all under bumps and high speed cornering surprisingly. And my rear rubbed once on a deep sewer drain divot on the corner of my rear bumper. As long as I drive carefully over really bad roads this setup still allow me to go on spirited drives and autocross without rubbing.
Just wanted to share my specs in case others are tackling this part of their build.

 

This seems really sketchy to me (assuming you are talking about the flange I'm thinking about). The two panels are spot welded together and the quarter panel is structural. I'm pretty sure cutting through that flange will cause significant weakening of the rear of the car. Generally when people install rear over-fenders they cut the fender and then fold and re-weld it up higher.

Also do you happen to have pictures of the setup? I'm in the process of a similar setup but with 17x10+50 Advan RSII

 

The outer skin of the quarter panel is not structural. The metal underneath it it. The quarter panel skin is spot welded in a ton of placed and even if you cut it still remains quite strong. The issues I have with cutting that lip off are as follows. First cutting it even if you are being careful is risky. All it takes is one jump of your cutting tool and now you have a big ugly mark or cut where you didn't want one. Second the spot welds do seal those 2 panels together and keep moisture out. If you cut them there is the potential for water to get in. This is why when I installed my over fenders I didn't cut away any material rather I cut sections and then rolled them up into the wheel well again and then covered it with a sealer to keep moisture out. Since that area is the most prone and exposed to water and the elements I think having the spot welds there helps. Plenty of people have cut that lip off (I have had to do it on cars that have had bodywork done since rolling it would cause more damage) and they have had no problems.

 

Fair enough.

Also for what its worth, I rolling and pulled my fronts yesterday. I would recommend trimming off the front tab prior to flaring the front fenders. I did not trim them on the right side and at the spot of each tab the flare gets a little wider due to the spot being a little stiffer. I did trim off the tabs on the left side and the flare is much more consistent (less wavy looking). On the right side I ended up bending the tabs back into the wheel wheel, trimming them off and then re-rolling. Final results are much closer to the left side although not quite as good.