TPMS Sensor Replacement
or you could do the delete. found this video awhile ago. find his instagram @9thgenee click his bio he sells them for a whole bunch of different cars. @cosmomiller take a look
Got the car back from Costco today with new Potenzas and TPMS sensors. The sensor install price was $175. Picked up the car, it was ready and programmed. No TPMS light. Not bad lifespan of 16 years for the original sensors from Japan.
Tires are great. The only issue was they did not install the center wheel caps straight. Should have asked them to leave them off for my install.
Tires are great. The only issue was they did not install the center wheel caps straight. Should have asked them to leave them off for my install.
Last edited by cosmomiller; Sep 4, 2025 at 05:55 PM.
One thing I noticed when I got my tires at Costco, the center wheel caps were placed randomly and the locking nut was also randomly placed. Even the sticker on the inside windshield was crooked as heck.
I decided to do a quick jack up and make the lug nuts and center cap in the position God intended. I discovered the wheels were pretty much welded to the car. No amount of me acting like a kicking mule could dislodge the wheels. I went for the old "GM" method and installed the nuts 2 turns loose. Drove down the driveway about 5 mph and slammed on the brakes a few times plus swerving. Felt a couple of pops. Back into the shady garage and all was good. I did have the wheels powder coated by a shop that only does rims and I saw one Rolls Royce and several Porches there so it was well regarded. I checked the face of the wheels that touches the hubs and they had not powder coated that area (as well as not where the nuts make contact with the wheel)
I still decided to wire brush and clean both the hub and wheel face. I applied anti-seize, copper base, to the wheel face only. Glad I did that as I would have never been able to change a tire on the road. I boned up on the types of anti-seize for aluminum and alloy and a number of engineer sites said for this purpose it was fine to use it.
I decided to do a quick jack up and make the lug nuts and center cap in the position God intended. I discovered the wheels were pretty much welded to the car. No amount of me acting like a kicking mule could dislodge the wheels. I went for the old "GM" method and installed the nuts 2 turns loose. Drove down the driveway about 5 mph and slammed on the brakes a few times plus swerving. Felt a couple of pops. Back into the shady garage and all was good. I did have the wheels powder coated by a shop that only does rims and I saw one Rolls Royce and several Porches there so it was well regarded. I checked the face of the wheels that touches the hubs and they had not powder coated that area (as well as not where the nuts make contact with the wheel)
I still decided to wire brush and clean both the hub and wheel face. I applied anti-seize, copper base, to the wheel face only. Glad I did that as I would have never been able to change a tire on the road. I boned up on the types of anti-seize for aluminum and alloy and a number of engineer sites said for this purpose it was fine to use it.
1. How close to the ocean are you that the alloy wheels rust-welded themselves to the hubs? Anti-seize or lubricants on the lug nuts is a big No-No if you want the wheels to stay on and not stretch the lug bolts by too much torque. Lug nut torque is only 80lbf-ft (I use a 70lbf-ft torque stick on my rattle gun then a real torque wrench to 80). Maybe putting anti-seize where the wheels make contact with the hub would do the same thing? (The rear axle nuts are greased and torqued but then staked so they can't move.)
2.. We all know the valve stem should be at 12 o'clock when the H (or whatever logo) is upright but where did God intend the wheel locks to be placed? Just looked and I've been embarrassing myself regarding the locks.
Fun story: Many years ago I was watching the tires being rotated on my Expedition and a couple of the "mechanics" (note the quotes) were kicking and banging on the wheels and still couldn't get them off. I naively asked "Are all the lug nuts off?" They smugly showed me all five (5) lug nuts... The 6th one was still on every wheel.
-- Chuck
2.. We all know the valve stem should be at 12 o'clock when the H (or whatever logo) is upright but where did God intend the wheel locks to be placed? Just looked and I've been embarrassing myself regarding the locks.
Fun story: Many years ago I was watching the tires being rotated on my Expedition and a couple of the "mechanics" (note the quotes) were kicking and banging on the wheels and still couldn't get them off. I naively asked "Are all the lug nuts off?" They smugly showed me all five (5) lug nuts... The 6th one was still on every wheel.

-- Chuck
1. How close to the ocean are you that the alloy wheels rust-welded themselves to the hubs? Anti-seize or lubricants on the lug nuts is a big No-No if you want the wheels to stay on and not stretch the lug bolts by too much torque. Lug nut torque is only 80lbf-ft (I use a 70lbf-ft torque stick on my rattle gun then a real torque wrench to 80). Maybe putting anti-seize where the wheels make contact with the hub would do the same thing? (The rear axle nuts are greased and torqued but then staked so they can't move.)
2.. We all know the valve stem should be at 12 o'clock when the H (or whatever logo) is upright but where did God intend the wheel locks to be placed? Just looked and I've been embarrassing myself regarding the locks.
Fun story: Many years ago I was watching the tires being rotated on my Expedition and a couple of the "mechanics" (note the quotes) were kicking and banging on the wheels and still couldn't get them off. I naively asked "Are all the lug nuts off?" They smugly showed me all five (5) lug nuts... The 6th one was still on every wheel.
-- Chuck
2.. We all know the valve stem should be at 12 o'clock when the H (or whatever logo) is upright but where did God intend the wheel locks to be placed? Just looked and I've been embarrassing myself regarding the locks.
Fun story: Many years ago I was watching the tires being rotated on my Expedition and a couple of the "mechanics" (note the quotes) were kicking and banging on the wheels and still couldn't get them off. I naively asked "Are all the lug nuts off?" They smugly showed me all five (5) lug nuts... The 6th one was still on every wheel.

-- Chuck
I am far away from the ocean. Never had an issue until I (just recently) powder coated my wheels at a professional rim shop. They did not paint the mating surface, it looks masked off but it was a little sticky. I will attach an article I found about anti-seize below. I did not add anti-seize to my lug nuts even though they made a little creaking noise busting loose. If I had used anti-seize on my new looking, no corrosion at all, lugs, I would have used 65lb-ft on my Craftsman clicker torque wrench. 30% off 80.
I checked the Old Testament in Numbers and it specified the lock nut is to be opposite the valve stem and the H aligned with those two. Picture below.
Thanks, I'll make the necessary corrections
the next time the car is on the lift and I can get to the wheels off easily.
(Looks like nice fresh tires. Only a couple months old.)
-- Chuck
the next time the car is on the lift and I can get to the wheels off easily.(Looks like nice fresh tires. Only a couple months old.)
-- Chuck
Last edited by Chuck S; Sep 7, 2025 at 11:10 AM.









