Forgot to put the link in.


https://autoexpert.com.au/posts/ulti...ickle-graphite

Just to recap, I advised taking the torque spec in the manual (which is generally for ‘lightly oiled’ threads - which you might think of as ‘dry’, meaning just residually lubricated) and then knocking 30 per cent off that torque if you apply anti-seize.

And it’s not ‘all personal vehicles’. It’s all bolted joints where there’s a torque spec. The official recommendation is: Heavily lubricated; knock 30 per cent off. If you’re going all SpaceX and sending men to Mars - use a more precise procedure to determine actual clamping force. That’s how industry rolls.

The difference between me and some potentially uninformed nutbag is that A) I’m actually an engineer with some hands-on familiarity with bolted joint design. So I can tell you that most wheel studs on passenger vehicles are grade 10.9 high-tensile studs (that’s the middle of three common high-tensile grades).
They’re generally M12 x 1.5. And you can confirm this because the assembly torque spec in the owner’s manual correlates closely to the assembly torque spec in bolt manufacturer’s tables for Grade 10.9 M12 x 1.5. That’s what they are.

And B) I can’t really comment on some other YouTuber’s advice to knock 10 per cent off, versus my advice to make it 30. What I can tell you is that the 30 per cent I recommend is not my opinion. I didn’t just make it up.

Instead, upliftingly, I took Ajax’s advice, which is to reduce the recommended assembly torque by 30 per cent for fasteners in that more heavily lubricated state. I’d expect one of the world’s leading bolt manufacturers to know their shit and get it right in their Fastener Handbook for Bolt products, which you can download independently and confirm.

(It’s in table 20 on page 50, where it says ‘standard finish plus heavy grease, conversion factor equals 0.7. Multiplying by 0.7 is the same as knocking 30 per cent off, FYI. It’s maths.)

Using a torque wrench is better than doing it by strange mental voodoo and a breaker bar, OK? But there’s still, like, 25 per cent variation in the actual bolt stretch, dry. Lubrication actually increases tension consistency, to less than 10 per cent variation from stud to stud. So, don’t take my word for it, take the Ajax bolt company’s word. If they can’t get this right, nobody can.

So I’d want to know on what basis someone else recommends taking 10 per cent off. Maybe it’s valid in some circumstances, and maybe they just made it up - it depends on the details surrounding that recommendation. I can’t really say much more about that, except that my anecdotal experience is that none of the wheels have fallen off any of my cars when tightened this ‘30 per cent off’ way.

 

Thanks very much! Learning experience for me this afternoon. Still watching the videos that get linked together starting with John's. Uncle Tony, etc. Will be picking up a tiny tube of anti-seize my next trip to Autoparts.

-- Chuck

 

Never heard of this maneuver.
But L'chaim

 

The wheels shouldn't be stuck to the car after Costco just had them off.

You sure they didn't put a rear wheel on the front by mistake?

 

Gotta love auto spell correcting! But the Old Testament was mentioned so it may be an AI infection.

-- Chuck

 

No they did not muff it. It turns out they found them stuck as well.

Search online revealed not uncommon after powder coating even when done correctly. I don't know if it was the chemical stripping made the previously finished, so to speak, mating surface to not be as slick as before. It sure is now!

 

My new tires brought peace to me with the Shalom maneuver.

"l'chayim tovim ulshalom"