Hey guys, I am not sure what hub centric means, when it comes to our wheels. I have had two sets of aftermarket wheels and neither have come with any kind of "hub rings" or anything like that. How could I tell if my wheels are hub centric? Is it a problem if they aren't?

I am running Work S2R wheels now.

 

Hub Centric...

Centers the wheel on the hub?

 

Pretty good visual description of hub centric


The centerbore of a wheel is the machined opening on the back of the wheel that centers the wheel properly on the hub of a vehicle. This hole is machined to exactly match the hub so the wheels are precisely positioned as the lug hardware is torqued down. Keeping the wheel precisely centered on the hub when it is mounted will minimize the chance of a vibration. Some wheels are vehicle model specific and will come from the factory with a bore machined to match that vehicle. Some wheels are designed to fit multiple vehicle models and will use a centering ring system to reduce the bore size to match the hubs of different vehicles. These rings keep the wheel precisely positioned as the lug hardware is torqued down.

Some wheels are non-hubcentric by design. These are known as lug-centric wheels. With these wheels it is critical to torque the lug hardware with the vehicle on jack stands, off the ground. This allows the nuts or bolts to center the wheel and torque down without the weight of the vehicle pushing them off center.

 

So my guess this is how I should tighten my Work wheels since my hub is smaller then the rear wheels! Gotcha.

 

Thanks for that SuzukablueAP2!! Does anyone think it is necessary to buy hub rings for Work wheels to center properly or should we just rely on the lug centric design and tighten the wheels in the air?
Do they even make hub rings for Work wheels? Never seen them.

 

Take a look at my 2 week old post. Exactly same question as yours. I PMed Work WHeels sponsor and he replied saying it's not. Then again other people keep telling me to do it.

I think i messed up cuz I tighten them by hand in the rear and dropped the car then torqued. per whats stated above we should do it in the air.

https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=690299

 

^I feel better after reading your post! I don't think they are necessary now. I will just tighten best I can in the air and torque on the ground

 

 

Threaded fasteners (the lugs) are meant solely to provide clamping force, that is the wheel to the hub. Work a threaded fastener in a bending load and sooner or later, after enough cycles it will fail, just like bending a strip of metal back and forth in your hands. The mentioned mating of the flange on the hub to the wheel does far more than position the wheel during torqueing, it transfers the WEIGHT OF THE CAR TO THE WHEEL AND HENCE TO THE PAVEMENT. Threaded fasteners are never intended to bear this weight. Why is no Honda (NO OEM for that matter) wheel ever supplied with those silly rings, because "lug centic" is a crime against threaded fastener NATURE, and it is not nice to fool with threaded fastener NATURE. It is so aftermarket wheel manufacturers can make one wheel that will fit many cars. That is why I blanch continually on many of these forums when someone asks if something will "fit". That being said, it is all theory (albeit correct--my single seat formula car racing days and threaded fastener sales career give me "cred" as you kids call it) and I know of no one whose wheel has fallen off because they have a plastic ring between wheel and hub. However if I ever bring my 5th (last) Gen Prelude to a Dragon event, with its "lug centric" Kosei wheels (I bought it used) and I fly off into the trees after a wheel departs, at least as I go through the trees I'll know why! SORRY FOR THE RANT, don't even get me started about wheel offsets, wheel bearing loads, scrub radius, WILL IT FIT???

 

HUH