Nippon

Hello everyone. I did a bit of searching last night and I was unable to come up with a thread that spoke in detail about what will be needed for me to purchase 2 rear AP2 V1 wheels and mounting them to the front.

I would like to know if fenders need to be flared (255/40/17) if I will need to bore out the wheel for the larger front hub, etc. Also, if at all possible, pics would be awesome.

Thanks in advance.

The Loon

Send m1bjr a PM - he's on the UK forums and has run a non staggered set up. IIRC correctly the wheels will have to centred bored to 70mm

HTH

B serious

You have to bore out the centers. That's it. I've heard of people doing it with dremels or grinding wheels lol.

It might be easier to just buy a set of 16X7.5s or 8s that you can run non staggered without issue.

You can also get wheel spacers that are hub centric to the hub and the wheel's bores.

urBan_dK

Hub centric wheel spacers of at least 5mm should do the trick if you don't want to bore the wheel out.

PM fastfour I believe he has done this very thing. I'm going to be doing it soon, hopefully.

Jim@tirerack

No spacers are not going to work. The wheels hub has to be bigger. The problem with doing that is you are taking away strength from the wheels. The OE wheels have just enough load capacity for the car they are going on. If you drill the wheels out bigger you are taking load away from the wheels. How much I can't tell you.

urBan_dK

Hate to disagree with you Jim as you're extremely helpful but I've personally seen someone use spacers to achieve this. Fastfour could provide more details.

y2k5S2k

The only issue I see with using wheel spacers up front is it will change your scrub radius.
This in turn can cause unusual steering phenomena. Boring out the wheel center,
using a die grinder, is a bad idea. These cars use the hub to center the wheel, not
the lug nuts. If you don't get it right (using a hand held die grinder comes to mind),
you can end up with balance issues. Take the wheels to a machine shop to see if they
can help. They can put the wheel on a lathe and get things aligned properly.
That would be the correct way to do it, if you felt driven to do it. 'cause the offset
of the rear wheel is still going to mess with your scrub radius, and this isn't great for
steering.

urBan_dK

Placing a rear wheel in front in itself will change the scrub radius since the position of the center of the contact patch will change with respect to the steering axis due to the new wheel offset (I think you implied this in your post as well). 5 more mm is not a huge deal.

Any aftermarket wheel with a different offset from stock will change the scrub radius.

And I do agree that using a die grinder to change the bore size is kinda crazy and makes me shudder (and probably the wheel would, too).

Cheers!

The lug nuts are conical/tapered. That is what centres the wheels. The centre bore of the wheels and the hub are there to assist in having the wheel concentric with the hub.

The biggest issue of trying to use a die grinder or a dremel to bore out the centre bore of the wheel at home is that you will have a hard hard time balacing any future wheel and tire. Most shops dynamically balance your tires and wheels by spinning the assembly together. The balancing machine relies on your centre bore being concentric with the tire to achieve balance.

If you use a home made method of boring out your centre bore without holding any precision your only hope is to static balance your wheel/tire assembly.

y2k5S2k

Cheers just said that the lug nuts center the wheel, and then in the next sentence said
it is the hub? Did I get that right?

That center hub fit is what carries the load of the wheel. You don't want all of the load
on the studs. Some designs do use the studs/lugs to center the wheel, but ours do
not. If you buy aftermarket wheels with larger center bores, you should get centering
rings to go along with them. And I have seen them sold that way.

Concerning scrub radius. How much change is too much? I don't know, but all of those
engineers at H put the King Pin Inclination inside the wheel to make it small (I have yet
to confirm this through measurements of my own).
And I think that they know more than I. Until I test some changes in scrub radius,
I'll stick with the wheels that keep it near factory.

A google search will give copious results/information about SR.