Using several DIY guides I was able to change my own brakes with having zero experience. I would like to contribute back with this guide that covered what I did.
I had frozen calipers on the rear, which ate my pad away completely. My replacement parts consisted of:
Stop-Tech Sport kit (rotors, pads, stainless steel lines) in one box $218
Centric Remanufactured calipers - $177 for the pair after the $183 core charge was refunded

Just look at the difference!




Tools Needed:
10mm flared nut wrench
10mm socket
12mm socket
14mm socket
17mm socket
17mm wrench
Impact screwdriver
PB blaster
Sledgehammer
Nylon clear tubing and bottle
Brake pad grease
Large screwdriver

Lets begin by of course jacking up the car and supporting it with proper supports.
Remove the wheel to access your project. I had a tough time using WD-40 and a regular hammer to remove my rotor screws, so I went and got PB Blaster and a sledgehammer. After a few whacks using the impact screwdriver I was able to break them loose.

Remove both rotor screws, you can toss them after. A lot of people recommend not using them.

Next I went in this pattern of removal, 10s, 12s, 14s.

Using a 10mm remove the parking brake shields 2 bolts.


Underneath you will find 2 upside down 12mm bolts. Remove this to help disengage the parking cable from its tab


Using a screwdriver, pry off the tab holding the line to the bracket


Now slide the parking brake off its tab


Next, remove the 2 caliper knuckle bolts using a 14mm


Next grab your 10mm flared wrench and break loose the hard brake line


Same as before using a screwdriver pry off the brake line tab


Disconnect the brake line and Connect a nylon tube to your catch can


Now wiggle off your old caliper, you might need to give it a few helping wacks.
With that out of the way, remove old the rotor now.


That's it for removal... Now onto installing

You can now slide your new rotor on. I cleaned my dust shield while i had access to it. I put one rotor screw back on to aid with installation and not have the rotor wobble. Which was later removed


Go back to your old calipers, and remove the 2 bolts the hold the brake line in place using a 10mm. And put these on your replacement calipers


Next, place your caliper on the hub and torque up the 14 mm bolts


Connect your new brake lines using a 17mm wrench and the 10mm flared wrench. (I forgot to add it to the picture). Torque I read was 11 ft-lb, impossible to guess so I just tightened as much as I could. I recommend this because during by bleeding I had a leak here. Don't forget your brake clip!


Using a screwdriver, push on this to help slide the parking brake together


Now using a 12mm and a 17mm wrench remove the caliper from the caliper bracket. Be careful with the rubber boots.


Install your pads like shown, grease if you want now.


Now re-install the caliper to the correct torque. Almost done!


Now the final step is torque your banjo bolt and re-install the parking brake cover


Now just follow your preferred method of bleeding!


Here's some photos of my frozen caliper

 

I liked it!

Note: you changed from rubber brake lines to braided steel brake lines but did not mention that anywhere in your thread.

 

very nice write up

 

I hope you bled those lol

 

thank you for the great write up. can you fix the image links please?

 

First off, thanks for the write up.

I've got a few questions. I ordered a centric remand. caliper too but the supplied bolts were different sizes from oem. The banjo bolt was slightly longer, slightly wider, had more threads, and the diameter of the hole for the brake fluid was slightly smaller than the oem. It was also sized at an odd 11mm compared to 14mm oem. I called centric and they said it should be fine but if I wanted to use the old banjo then I could do so. i went ahead and reinstalled the oem one. Would there be a problem reusing the old one?
Also my slider pin bolts were sized at 14mm compared to 12mm oem. Those didn't really bother me too much, but I've got the same question: would there be a problem with reusing the old ones?
I think the old ones are still fine, but after having one of the 10mm bolts that hold down the e-brake cover snap on me I'm not sure.

 

WOW! Great write up...and perfect timing...I am getting ready to do this on all 4 corners!

 

notice any difference for steel lines?

great guide btw - this'll save me some $$ next time my brakes are due for change

 

Thanks for taking the time to put this together, with the pictures! This is really going to help me out, when I change my caliper tonight

 

Hi all, I'm going though this at the moment but the hand brake hoop is rusted onto the spring backed lever on the caliper, and i cant get it off. Anyone else have this problem / have any suggestions, please?