Intake, Exhaust and Tune advice (AP1)
09-07-2014, 06:13 PM
#1
Intake, Exhaust and Tune advice (AP1)
After three years driving my car (BB My02) I'm after a little more acceleration. The only mod fitted so far is a set of light weight JDM BBS wheels (plus new RE002s all round and recent alignment) although I picked up a Tracy Sports TS-02 manifold earlier today. https://www.s2ki.com/...anifold-gasket/
My car is a fast-road daily driver, so test pipes and gears aren't an option and I'm not after drone or lots of noise. More mid-range torque is desirable given that it's an AP1 although ideally I'd like gains across the board. I've read the official intake, header and exhaust treads a few times and have the following questions:
Is there any power benefit to a K&N FIPK on regular roads i.e. where heat soak may be an issue or are they all about looks, access and noise? Does anyone in this forum have any (working) links to dyno charts of one of these vs stock on an AP1? Import Tuner seem to get more power out of everything including red stripes and white paint. Has anyone here recorded similar figures or were they smoking something in their test pipe? http://www.importtun...max_energy.html
If the K&N doesn't do much, I've narrowed the choice of intake down to two the PWJDM and Mugen V.2 intakes, neither of which are cheap. (I'd prefer not to cut my car, which rules out the ASM and J's Racing.) Are there any cheaper intakes that reliably make more power or is the only option to shell out for a big name brand? Also, does either the Password or Mugen actually fit under a food without cutting? Both claim to, but some forum posts suggest otherwise. I'd like to be able to drop the hood without damaging anything otherwise I may as well bite the bullet and just cut the damn thing. Is it so hard to make >$1000 parts that fit?
I'd like an exhaust that makes a bit more power without lots of noise and the Mugen AP1 and the Fujitsubo Legalis R look like the best candidates, but the Mugen is expensive and the Legais R doesn't add many bhp. Have I missed out any other good, quiet exhaust that ads appreciable power or is the Mugen as good as it gets?
I'd also like a Gern-pipe if anyone has one for sale in the UK, but $2000 for a new one, plus international shipping is a bit much for me.
The other thing I'm planning on adding is an AEM EMS. Are the gains from an intake and exhaust going to make much difference (beyond weight saving) or am I wasting time and money and should just fit the manifold and go for an EMS and tune without delay?
My car is a fast-road daily driver, so test pipes and gears aren't an option and I'm not after drone or lots of noise. More mid-range torque is desirable given that it's an AP1 although ideally I'd like gains across the board. I've read the official intake, header and exhaust treads a few times and have the following questions:
Is there any power benefit to a K&N FIPK on regular roads i.e. where heat soak may be an issue or are they all about looks, access and noise? Does anyone in this forum have any (working) links to dyno charts of one of these vs stock on an AP1? Import Tuner seem to get more power out of everything including red stripes and white paint. Has anyone here recorded similar figures or were they smoking something in their test pipe? http://www.importtun...max_energy.html
If the K&N doesn't do much, I've narrowed the choice of intake down to two the PWJDM and Mugen V.2 intakes, neither of which are cheap. (I'd prefer not to cut my car, which rules out the ASM and J's Racing.) Are there any cheaper intakes that reliably make more power or is the only option to shell out for a big name brand? Also, does either the Password or Mugen actually fit under a food without cutting? Both claim to, but some forum posts suggest otherwise. I'd like to be able to drop the hood without damaging anything otherwise I may as well bite the bullet and just cut the damn thing. Is it so hard to make >$1000 parts that fit?
I'd like an exhaust that makes a bit more power without lots of noise and the Mugen AP1 and the Fujitsubo Legalis R look like the best candidates, but the Mugen is expensive and the Legais R doesn't add many bhp. Have I missed out any other good, quiet exhaust that ads appreciable power or is the Mugen as good as it gets?
I'd also like a Gern-pipe if anyone has one for sale in the UK, but $2000 for a new one, plus international shipping is a bit much for me.
The other thing I'm planning on adding is an AEM EMS. Are the gains from an intake and exhaust going to make much difference (beyond weight saving) or am I wasting time and money and should just fit the manifold and go for an EMS and tune without delay?
09-08-2014, 04:51 AM
#3
Registered User
I have or had really, an fipk. It sounds amazing under wot, however my butt dyno felt nothing. It does heat soak more than OEM. Although pairing it with an aut plate has been proven to cool it off faster than OEM. Stop and go traffic is slightly worse but you can feel the difference with the aut plate when you get your speed up.
For an exhaust id recommened a 3" but that's going to be loud. A test pipe is a must IMO. This will allow you to lower vtec when paired with a tune.
A tune is a must. This is my next step. You won't feel any real difference with out it. My my00 feels OEM with all the mods I have.
For an exhaust id recommened a 3" but that's going to be loud. A test pipe is a must IMO. This will allow you to lower vtec when paired with a tune.
A tune is a must. This is my next step. You won't feel any real difference with out it. My my00 feels OEM with all the mods I have.
09-08-2014, 05:07 AM
#4
09-08-2014, 11:01 AM
#5
Well u have an ap1. So if u want it tuned ur gona have to use a Aem ecu for the most gains which isn't legal unless u don't mind switching ur ecu when emissions time comes. Intake and exhaust are gona get u little to no gains without a tune.
09-08-2014, 11:09 AM
#6
Will it fail emissions tests in the UK even if its set up properly?
09-08-2014, 11:10 AM
#7
I have or had really, an fipk. It sounds amazing under wot, however my butt dyno felt nothing. It does heat soak more than OEM. Although pairing it with an aut plate has been proven to cool it off faster than OEM. Stop and go traffic is slightly worse but you can feel the difference with the aut plate when you get your speed up.
For an exhaust id recommened a 3" but that's going to be loud. A test pipe is a must IMO. This will allow you to lower vtec when paired with a tune.
A tune is a must. This is my next step. You won't feel any real difference with out it. My my00 feels OEM with all the mods I have.
For an exhaust id recommened a 3" but that's going to be loud. A test pipe is a must IMO. This will allow you to lower vtec when paired with a tune.
A tune is a must. This is my next step. You won't feel any real difference with out it. My my00 feels OEM with all the mods I have.
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09-14-2014, 02:44 AM
#8
Do they connect a computer to the OBD2 port on your emission tests? If so the AEM unit will fail because it doesn't support that.
You would need a piggyback ecu like the Greddy Emanage Ultimate or an Apexi VAFC to tune with all the stock OBD2 functions still working.
You would need a piggyback ecu like the Greddy Emanage Ultimate or an Apexi VAFC to tune with all the stock OBD2 functions still working.
09-14-2014, 04:42 PM
#9
You sure about that? I will fail the test with my flashpro on my car.
09-14-2014, 09:40 PM
#10
No Flashpro is fine, you are still using the oem ecu 
It's not available for a '02 car though thats why I didn't mention it, there is kpro though but I'm not sure if it's worth all the trouble.
It's not available for a '02 car though thats why I didn't mention it, there is kpro though but I'm not sure if it's worth all the trouble.