I promised a couple of members on the board that I would write a summary of how I built my Novi 1000.

This is not a HOW TO! it's simply some pictures and information on how I did mine so please be aware this may not be the correct procedure.

I thought mine sounded loud so I wanted to change the bearings, hence why I rebuilt it.

First I removed the supercharger from the mounting plate:



Removed the pulley and washer:



Then I removed all the allen key cap head bolts holding the rear casing on:



View of inside:




I removed the three spring washers and two spacing washers form the output shaft bearing. I placed these in the insert in the housing plate for safe keeping:





Output shaft bearings:



Input shaft bearings:



Then I lifted the input shaft assembly out:



Removed the spring washer and stored it for safe keeping:



I then flipped the casing over and removed the volute:

 

Now off I went to my workshop (well my work's workshop:

Picture of parts:



I then placed the casing into a vice (with the output shaft/bearings still attached), heated the impeller with a blow torch then removed the locking nut and impeller. once you remove these the output shaft assembly just pops out:





I melted the old output shaft seal but this was getting replaced anyway:



Then put the washers with the impeller for safe keeping:


I then removed all bearings with bearing pullers



I removed all four bearings and refitted them using a bearing induction heater. If you haven't got a bearing induction heater just heat the bearings in some fresh motor oil to 100'C in an oven!:

WHEN ISTALLING THE NEW BEARINGS MAKE SURE YOU INSTALL THEM IN THE SAME ORINTATION AS REMOVED! NUMBERS FACING OUTWARDS!



I then removed the input & output shaft seal with a press and hand tools:




I then pressed in the new seals - Please note; you can easily damage the seals so please be cautious!!! You need to heat the casing with a blow torch (or this is how Paxton recommend). You must press the output shaft in on the inner race/sleeve ONLY! I used some 17mm round bar for the output shaft. The input shaft can be done by hand






I then laid all the components out and re-assembled:





Once I'd reassembled all the parts within the casing. I installed the rear cover with the allen key bolts. Then placed the input shaft into a vice and clamped it. Heated the impeller with a blow torch and dropped the impeller back onto the output shaft.

Like this:



Then I screwed on the lock nut and tightend.

You can now re-install the impeller, volute and pulley.

I then fitted the charger to the car. I spun the input shaft by hand (with the belt removed), I could hear the impeller touching the volute so I clamped the input shaft with a pair of stilsons and tighten the impeller locking nut. I tightened it to what felt tight to me. Please go careful as you could break the helical gears if excessive force is applied!



I then marked the lock nut with a line to see if it moves - which it hasn't so far.

 

For information:

I bought the bearings from a UK supplier no problem, they cost my £150

Parts I used:

X2 SKF 6206 C3 bearings
X2 Barden 203H bearings
X1 input shaft seal
X1 output shaft seal - 30mm

Seals can be bought from here:
http://www.superchargerrebuild.com/paxton/

I did purchase a seal from JBO but I didn't like the type of output shaft seal so opted for the OEM type from the above.

Any questions please ask, I typed that lot as quickly as possible

 

Nice write up. Hows it sound and run?

 

Great, still sounds noisy though!

I bought mine second hand so didn't know how they was meant to sound.

 

Cracking write up cheers what was your shopping list for parts needed ?

 

Great information! I recently rebuilt my Paxton 1000 as well and my impeller only had one shim on it, compared to two on yours! Seems that there is quite a bit of variation with their builds. Also, from my research, the impeller nut needed 35 ft/lbs, or at least, that's what a paxton manual said. Thanks for the write up!

 

Great write up! I was thinking of doing this but I found out that I did not have to yet.

 

Nice write up.

As long as you dont over spin the blowers rated speed, or over tighten the pulley belt, ive seen 150k+ miles on these units before a rebuild was needed. They all sound like a coffee grinder at idle.

 

Thanks for the valuable and well placed info OP!