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snapped banjo bolt thread on my AP1 short block, what now?

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Old Mar 27, 2016 | 07:52 PM
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Default snapped banjo bolt thread on my AP1 short block, what now?

I really cannot believe I just ruined my AP1's short block by snapping cylinder 1's banjo bolt thread. These pictures are worth a thousand F-bombs:




I was using a wobble extension but hell if I could get cylinder 1's bolt to thread -- must've tried 20+ times. But once I did, I knew it didn't feel quite right yet I kept tightening cause at the time I wasn't sure.. hindsight is 20-20. The level of difficulty for threading cyclinder 1's bolt is pretty understated here (even if special attention was paid to just how challenging it is, e.g. "So you'll get four chances on #1").

Anyway. Sh!t happens and I just need to move on from my mistake. But I'd like feedback on:
  1. is my shortblock unable to be fixed and I need a new one?
  2. I'd like to stay true to my AP1's 2.0L but is an inlinePro shortblock the way to go for a replacement?

Any advice would be appreciated, thanks!
Old Mar 27, 2016 | 09:27 PM
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Oh man, that sucks!! :/ you're looking at a replacement, guaranteed. Billman will likely chime in and confirm, but still, I feel for you, that's shitty... Good luck on the swap-in.
Old Mar 28, 2016 | 01:09 AM
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Originally Posted by AP1Driver
Oh man, that sucks!! :/ you're looking at a replacement, guaranteed. Billman will likely chime in and confirm, but still, I feel for you, that's shitty... Good luck on the swap-in.
Yeah, I'm not liking my chances of a professional being able to do some welding to add the material and a threadsert to put the threads back. But would certainly welcome Billman's thoughts.

Worst part is this 2002 AP1 only has 23K miles... live and learn.
Old Mar 28, 2016 | 05:14 AM
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Should've left the bolts alone unless you were planning on going FI; my 01 just turned over 100k after many years of me tracking, canyon carving and generally revving it "to the moon" for extended periods of time; they're fine, and my engine is in perfect health.
Old Mar 28, 2016 | 05:40 AM
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for it to be welded you'd have to pull the motor and disassemble everything


i'd sooner just jbweld it in there.
Old Mar 28, 2016 | 05:55 AM
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Originally Posted by s2000ellier
for it to be welded you'd have to pull the motor and disassemble everything

i'd sooner just jbweld it in there.
I'd be fine with having the motor pulled if a skilled welder could fill this, re-thread it _and_ the weld would hold up (good as "new") over time.

I have some recent experience with jbweld to seal an oil leak in my differential. But given this application I would be pretty skeptical of jbweld holding up (it is only rated to ~500 degrees F). Not to mention trying to get into cylinder 1 to thread this banjo bolt was awful. I couldn't imagine successfully applying jbweld without pulling the block anyway.
Old Mar 28, 2016 | 06:10 AM
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Originally Posted by snitm
I'd be fine with having the motor pulled if a skilled welder could fill this, re-thread it _and_ the weld would hold up (good as "new") over time.
probably be cheaper to buy a used short block by that point
Old Mar 28, 2016 | 06:28 AM
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Is an option to rethread the hole that's there or is an insert product available- like a helicoil type product- that can be used to rebuild it?

good luck.

darcy
Old Mar 28, 2016 | 06:42 AM
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I know Jordan Kwolik in TN got a thread repair kit, the thread size is very rare, and I recall him having to bring it in form Australia. His engine has been working fine ever since so it worked fine. Perhaps you could have it welded and then re-threaded.
Old Mar 28, 2016 | 07:11 AM
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Dang I keep saying that the two biggest mistakes an AP1 owner can make are replacing perfectly good retainers and doing the banjo bolts as "preventative maintenance"! All you are doing is asking for problems and two threads within 48hrs prove my point, a retainer replacement gone wrong and a ruined engine. Don't fix crap that isn't broke people, just drive your car and keep the oil topped off!!



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