LostMotion

My goal is to build a car that is at its best on the track and in the canyons while still being a daily driver. See the next post for dynos. Hopefully this information will allow some people to avoid some mistakes I made and see a path toward making reasonable NA power.

Cylinder Head
Endyn cylinder head. Welded chambers for 11.95:1 compression and better airflow. CNC recessed quench pads, seat throat .012" smaller than stock, magnesium/brass valve guides, Supertech Ti retainers and double valve springs and stock sized, flat faced valves.

Airflow on intake side (stock, modified):
.400" (10.1mm) lift 315cfm, 323cfm (2.5%)
.450" (11.4mm) lift 323cfm, 341cfm (5.5%)
.500" (12.7mm) lift 328cfm, 352cfm (7.3%)
.550" (14.0mm) lift 331cfm, 357cfm (7.9%)

Airflow is not the only area where this head has been improved. The compression has obviously been increased, but along with that the combustion chamber shape has been changed for better burn characteristics.
OEM AP1 Cams. 13mm (.511") /12mm lift; 255 / 250 duration at 1mm.
Toda adjustable cam gears. Set +2.5 IN / -2 EX. Advancing the intake cam allows for higher dynamic CR. Retarding the exhaust allows for greater overlap.
NGK BKR8E-11 copper plugs.

Intake/Exhaust
MG style intake. Better access to cold air. We compared this to a velocity stack (similar to a AEM CAI but with no filter and shorter) and the MG intake made slightly better power.
J's Racing DBW throttle body. The TB has a 70mm intake diameter (64mm stock) and 66.5mm butterfly diameter (64mm stock). This is one of the few parts I dyno'd back to back with no other changes and it gained 5 HP peak and gained a little in the mid-range as well after tuning.
Endyn intake manifold. Plenum was slightly expanded, runners were tapered and the manifold was port matched to the head and the TB.
J's Racing header. 4(50)-2(50)-1(60). The best readily available header for motors with 70mm+ exhaust and tuning capability. Note the primaries and secondaries are the same size and are as long as possible. Those two facts probably are the biggest contributors to power.
Random Technolgy high-flow cat. Series 7000 Random Technology cat with 70mm piping from an Invidia TP. Custom built.
ASM 70mm stainless steel. Very quiet at low RPM. Very little drone. Heavier than most singles at roughly 25lbs.

Drivetrain
Competition Clutch Stage II pressure plate and disk. Not installed yet.
Comptech flywheel. Not installed yet.

Electronics
AEM EMS w/ UEGO.

Aero
ASM FRP hood. Gets the heat out and looks fairly clean.
C-West front bumper. Together with the wing the front and rear C-West bumpers eliminate the lift the S2000 has in stock form and add a bit of downforce.
C-West rear bumper. More aerodynamic then the stock and looks better with a single exhaust.
Ings+1 wing.

Suspension & Wheels
Racing Gear JTC N1 Bestex Circuit Dampers. 10k spring rates. All aluminum. 1-way adjustable.
Cusco Front Sway Bar.
OEM 2008 CR Rear Sway Bar. With 235/255 tires the car seems fairly neutral with a little bias toward understeer.
Gloss black Volk CE28N. 17x7.5 +54 / 17x9 +63.
Nitto NT-01 235/255.

Accessories/Other
ASM SR-VI seat on Bride rails.
Comptech X-Brace.
Cusco rear tie bar.
4.5lb LiFePO4 battery. Stock is 28 pounds.
ARC radiator cap. 1.3 atmospheres.
J's Racing ETD.

Failed Parts
BMC CDA Airbox. Complete failure, lost 9 hp versus a velocity stack.
Berk header. I picked up about 20 hp from a J's header, 70mm high flow cat and cam gear tuning. Guessing at least 10 hp from the header. About 6 from the cat and 4 from cam gear tuning.

LostMotion

Dynos

I will log all dynos in this post as the build comes along. All dynos and tuning are from Church Automotive up to Stage 3. Stage 4 tuning done by Neel Vasavada at Apex Speed Technology. Note on the dynos, the Dynapak used Stage 1 and 2 was the same as Stage 2.1 however it was calibrated differently. I don't know the impact. For Stage 3, the before is the same as Stage 2.1 but the corrections change the numbers a little.

DBW Stock Baseline



This is not my car, but is a stock DBW S2000 on the same dyno I used from Stage 3.

Stage 1
BMC CDA Airbox, Hondata IMG, AP1 intake cam, Toda cam gears (-2/0), Berk header, ASM 70mm exhaust, AEM EMS.



Results with velocity stack versus the BMC CDA intake were +9hp peak (Roughly 233 peak) and minus 1-2hp around 4k RPM. Compared to the stock dyno above, it's clear the Berk header is costing a bit of power. Also the car didn't respond well to cam gear changes, probably due the intake and header.

Stage 2
MG style intake, AP1 intake cam, Toda cam gears (+4/+1), Js header, ASM 70mm exhaust, 70mm high flow cat, AEM EMS.



Probably would have picked up a couple more HP if I revved it a little higher. Finally the car is starting to make some good power over stock, although it was less than I would have liked.

Stage 2.1
MG style intake, J's Throttle Body, AP1 intake cam, Toda cam gears (+4/+1), Js header, ASM 70mm exhaust, 70mm high flow cat, AEM EMS.



Only change here was the throttle body and it picked up a little power.

Stage 3
MG style intake, J's Throttle Body, Endyn Intake manifold, Endyn head, AP1 IN and EX cams, Toda cam gears (+1.5/-3.5), Js header, ASM 70mm exhaust, 70mm high flow cat, AEM EMS.



The before plot on this dyno is the exact same run as the Stage 2.1 dyno above, the numbers changed due to different correction factors. Changes were the head, intake manifold, exhaust cam and the cam timing.

yosephs2k

This will be perfect for 06 NA guys.. goodluck dude
AEM is out with their 06 harness?

chuhsi

Sounds like it's going to be a beast.

Why 63 instead of 70 exhaust?

LostMotion

Tech Notes
(These are technical notes on my build, not directly applicable to other setups)

I can't even understand my own notes here after 4 years, lel.

+5 indicated on adj intake cam gear gives 97 degree ATDC cam top center versus 100 ATDC on cam card.

Stock EX cam gear gives 100.5 degree BTDC cam top center versus 102.5 BTDC on cam card.

My Toda gear at +3.5 indicated gives 100.5 BTDC. Gear is misaligned by 3 degrees too retarded.

Milled head likely 2 degree impact.

Target clearances: 0.035"-0.040" on the intake (0.060" preferred) and .040"-.050" exhaust (0.060"-0.070" preferred). At xx valve lash.

At 0.08-0.09 valve lash:
+3 indicated on intake cam gear gives 0.062" clearance.
+5 indicated on intake cam gear gives 0.046" clearance.

Valve to valve
EX .140 lift at TDC with adj cam gear +3.5 (0 real) (100.5 deg BTDC centerline)
IN .190 lift at TDC with adj cam bear at +5 (97 deg ATDC centerline)

.140 * sin(25.5) = 0.0602
.190 * sin(25.5) = 0.0817
IN + EX = 0.1419

Distance between valves on seat > 0.185 - 0.195

Valve to valve minimum clearance = 0.040. Preferred 0.050.

0.1419 + .050 = 0.1919 > 0.185

Every additional degree on intake camshaft = 0.0058, slightly less for exhaust camshaft, assume 0.0053.

yosephs2k

wait.. so this means i can tune my car NA/turbo whatever and everything etc.? :s

negcamber

Unless you are going FI, I probably wouldn't bother with the bored throttle body. And if you are going FI, push that mod till then.

LostMotion

Yeah. If you want FI capability though the harness is about $150 more.

2QYK4U

Nice build plan!

Here are my suggestions:

1. Get the clutch package from Hardtopguy (ACT PP, Comptech Flywheel, OEM disc)
2. Get the T1R 70R SS vice the 63R (I don't think there would be a huge difference in sound, and the gains would be better with the 70mm)
3. Get the Hondata IMG
4. Get the Stage 3 cylinder head job done by Laskey Racing
5. Get lightweight wheels (if you don't already have them)
6. Get aftermarket brakes/calipers (don't need a BBK, but something like the Spoon calipers will shed some weight)
7. Get a lightweight battery
8. Get the Rick's lightweight pulleys and tensioners

That's about all I can think of at this time.

2QYK4U

I think that is a bunch of BS! I was the first to have that setup on an MY06 S2000. I sold that setup to phillie, who currently using it with his LoveFab kit. Nothing needed to be done to the wiring harness to make it compatible with FI setups.