arp header studs
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From: huntington long island
arp header studs
just installed these last night, all im gonna say if u have a full race manifold, good luck getting the mkanifold on with these studs, they are a good cm longer than the oem ones, even with the motor jacked up as much as we could it wasnt even close, we had to remove all the studs but the bottom left one, put the manifold on then screw in each stud from there moving the manifold constanly to make the studs go in, we got them all but the bottom middle left one will not work with studs this long so i just left it out for now, drove her around the block last night and to work this morning, nothing is loose yet. just giving everyone a heads up the longer studs make it a real pita but hopefully the nuts wont back out anymore.
matt
matt
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From: Chiswick
yeah, i had to grind one of them down a little to make it fit. I installed the turbo, downpipe, wastegate and dumptube together, so that might have made it a bit harder. Keep an eye out for the back one, and the nut thats under the 3rd and 4th runner. So hard to get at...
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From: USA
Originally Posted by passmans2kny,Oct 23 2008, 08:31 AM
just installed these last night, all im gonna say if u have a full race manifold, good luck getting the mkanifold on with these studs, they are a good cm longer than the oem ones, even with the motor jacked up as much as we could it wasnt even close, we had to remove all the studs but the bottom left one, put the manifold on then screw in each stud from there moving the manifold constanly to make the studs go in, we got them all but the bottom middle left one will not work with studs this long so i just left it out for now, drove her around the block last night and to work this morning, nothing is loose yet. just giving everyone a heads up the longer studs make it a real pita but hopefully the nuts wont back out anymore.
matt
matt
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From: Seattle / Kalifornia
I ONCE... for the hell of it used a siscor jack against my motor and frame using some blocks of wood.... worked great, I got my manifold and turbo out with even taking the valve cover out. I don't do it in general but I was in a huge hurry that day. Don't go too far but you can score a couple inches that way.
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From: huntington long island
Originally Posted by dsddcd,Oct 23 2008, 02:53 PM
What are you going to do when you have to take it off?
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I have learned real fast how much vibration the s2k must hve because my turbo-manifold bolts backed out on me. Luckly all the manifold-head bolts were tight, wastegate bolts are tight so i guess it could always be worse. Good luck with it, hope it all stays on there nice and tight. I am hoping the 10.9 metric bolts i used will hold, i torqued them down as tight as i could without snapping the head of the bolt, lol.
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From: huntington long island
one bottom one is loose after 2 ways, im getting the highest temp thread locker avaailable and drilling the studs and putting wire through them, im so sick of this
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From: Seattle / Kalifornia
Originally Posted by passmans2kny,Oct 24 2008, 11:17 AM
one bottom one is loose after 2 ways, im getting the highest temp thread locker avaailable and drilling the studs and putting wire through them, im so sick of this
Are you using castle nuts? A physical lock mechanism is far better then a liquid thread locker for this application.