Nitrous Guide..A good place to start if you're looking into nitrous
05-17-2011, 08:39 AM
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Nitrous Guide..A good place to start if you're looking into nitrous
Hey guys, I just received my nitrous kit today (and have had nitrous in the past, just not on my s2k) and decided to make a small guide for begginers thinking about nitrous on their S.
**06+ s2k owners, please read very carfully since yours will be a little different. Please refer to page 3 of this thread for the discussion and solutions for you guys.**
Here are the main questions you will get everyone asking.
Q: Can I run nitrous safely on my S?
A: Yes, as long as you know what you are doing. If you don't know how a nitrous system works, I would advise against you getting it until you do some more research, and hopefully this guide will help point you into the correct direction.
Q: What's better, a Wet shot or a Dry shot?
A: Personally I would only put a wet kit onto my S. Dry kits are okay, but are far more dangerous since you are only injecting nitrous into your motor, and relying on your ECU to compensate for the extra fuel needed and making your injectors work harder to try and keep up. A wet shot you tap into your fuel line, and hook it up to your nozzle so it mixes with the nitrous as it enters your engine. This way you can actually fine tune your nitrous system by using different types of nitrous and or fuel jets to get the HP shot you are looking for, and the right amount of fuel to run it safely. This also means you can keep your stock fuel injectors and don't have to over work them. A wet kit is a little harder to hook up, but it's really nothing to complicated. Most nitrous kit's come with full instructions and you can just follow that.
Q: What's the highest shot of nitrous I can run on my S?
A: It all depends on how far you are willing to go with it. For a basic wet kit without a tune, a 75 shot is the highest I would go. Anything after a 75 shot you are going to need a tune (EMS) and direct port injection to run it safely and efficently. I am going to be running a 75 wet shot on my S, I will get into more details about it later. There are some guys that are running a 100 shot without a tune but I would not recommend it. Bluemetals2k is running a 150 direct port shot with a tuned EMS with success. He also has a full standalone fuel system though to support it.
Q: Which nitrous kit is the best?
A: I prefer either a ZEX kit (which is what i'm going to be running, and what most of the nitrous guys here are running) or a Dynotune nitrous kit. I got a ZEX kit just because I found a good deal on the kit in the classifieds. Also ZEX has a very good name and all the guys using it here has proven that it is a reliable kit. I previously had a Dynotune kit on my old car which was also a very nice kit, and is very affordable. I know at least 1 guy that is using this kit on his S with no problems also. Other brands are nice too, but I would recommend one of these two first. **Note - 06+ s2000s are different, and can NOT run a Zex kit since it's TPS based. People have tried in the past with no luck. For you guys it would be best to get a kit with a mechanical WOT switch, Dynotune nitrous have very nice kits for great prices that will work for you guys.
Q: What kind of spark plugs should I run with nitrous?
A: I'm going to be running R5671A-8 4554 NGK Coppers gapped at .32 which are 1 step colder than OEM. Bluemetals2k recommended these to me and he is a nitrous geuru. With 75-100 shot 1 step colder plugs should be okay, and under a 75 shot colder plugs are not required. If you are doing around 100-150 I would recommend 2 step colder plugs. I'm getting the coppers because they have a shorter strap to get rid of heat faster and are the copper RACING plugs. Coppers are known to give the best power and be reliable, but they don't last as long as other plugs. That's fine though, they are only about $2.50 per plug, and should change them around every oil change. Also be sure to check your plugs after you spray to determine if you are running rich, lean, ect.. You can find charts all over the internet to determine what your plugs should look like.
Q: Do I need to upgrade my fuel system to run nitrous?
A: Once again, it depends. If you are running a dry shot, I would highly recommend you run some bigger injectors and an upgraded fuel pump along with a tune. With a wet shot you do not need to upgrade your injectors since the fuel is controlled by the fuel solenoid and jets. When I do my 75 wet shot i'm going to go ahead and get a 255lph Walbro fuel pump just for the extra insurance, and they are only around $100 so why not. Also if you are not wanting to tap into the fuel line for your wet kit, you can always get an aftermarket fuel rail with a port on the end and tap into your fuel from there. I know Inline Pro and AEM have nice fuel rails that would work perfect for this. I'm getting an AEM rail because AEM has really good feedback, it has the port on the end of it, it comes with the crush washers require to install, and comes with some new injector O-rings for you. This can be had for around $200. If you are wanting to tap into your fuel there you will need an adaptor so you can hook up your -4AN line to it. If you just search on Ebay you can find a 1/8th NPT to -4AN adaptor no problem for cheap. You can also get them at a lot of nitrous specialty stores. If running much more than a 100 shot I would get a standalone fuel system to support it. Note - "06+'s are once again a little different. To tap into your fuel you have to find a way to tap into the "plastic hard line" that the 06+ returnless system came with. Which is not difficult but you cant just use the T that comes with the unit since it wont fit in the fuel main line cause of the inner plastic." (Quoted from Luis06s2k) Also for guys that don't want to have to deal with that, Inline Pro does make fuel rails for 06+ s2k's which you can just tap into your fuel from the port on the end of it. That would make things a lot simpler and not have to mess with your fuel lines.
Q: Do I need an upgraded clutch after I install nitrous?
A: Our stock clutch can hold up to a 75 shot fine. An upgraded clutch would be recommended but it isn't required as long as your OEM clutch is in good shape. If you are going to be doing anything bigger than a 75 shot, start looking into upgraded clutches.
Q: Would different ratio diff gears go good with nitrous?
A: This is more of a personal preference imo. Usually when you add power to a car, you want the gears as long as possible without losing low end power. I honestly think stock gears are perfect for a nitrous setup but that's just me. There are some guys running 4.77 gears with nitrous and love it, just be warned though the gears will be really short, and you will be in 6th gear in no time. If you are just street driving or track your S, then I would keep the stock gearing. If you are looking to run up and down the drag strip with your nitrous, gears will help you on your times even though it requires more shifting.
Q: Do I need to build my engine before running nitrous?
A: Our s2000 engines hold up very well, and as long as you have a good tune (or if you have the right nitrous/fuel jets) you have nothing to worry about. Guys have boosted their S and made tons of power on an all stock engine with no problem. There are many 500+ HP guys out there on the stock internal engine running fine.
Q: Why would I choose nitrous over a turbo or supercharger?
A: I personally looked into doing a turbo or supercharger on my S, and it is going to be WAY more expensive than it is to have nitrous for a while. A decent turbo or supercharger setup is going to run you around $5000+, and it also affects the reliabilty of the car since you have so many extra things now, and have to deal with an EMS and tune and such. If running a 75 shot or below of nitrous, you can get a good 10 passes at the drag strip on a 10 lb bottle. It usually costs around $30-$40 to fill up a 10lb bottle and for me would last a couple of months at least since i'm not going to be spraying all the time. Nitrous kit's are also a lot cheaper, and can be safe if used right like stated before. A full nitrous kit with all the things needed can be had for around $1500 if you shop around. Also nitrous actually gives the s2000 torque which is awesome, and will give just as much if not more than a basic bolt on supercharger. A 300whp S with nitrous will be faster than a 300whp turbo or supercharged S. No having to wait for a turbo to spool, and you don't have to have power to make power like a supercharger. Also what if something goes bad in your turbo system? That means you can not drive the car at all until the problem is fixed. With a nitrous kit if something goes bad or breaks, you can still drive your S like normal, but you just can't use the nitrous. At least you can still drive the car at that point.
Q: What can I do to make my nitrous system safer?
A: There are a few little gadgets that you can purchase to make it a little safer to run nitrous. The main 3 would be a WOT switch, a lean shut down switch, and a window switch. Most kits like the ZEX and Dynotune come with a WOT switch, so you don't have to worry about that if you buy one of these kits. All it does is activate the nitrous ONLY when you are at WOT (wide open throttle) so you don't accidentally spray while not flooring it. A lean shut down switch monitors your AFR's and even has a nice display (I still highly recommend you invest in a wideband with your nitrous system if you get this or not. If you hook this up without a wideband it will only read the voltage which you will have to translate into AFR readings, and isn't near as accurate as a wideband. So I would still get a wideband and hook this up to it for the best monitoring). If a lean condition occurs while you have your nitrous activated, it will automatically shut your nitrous system down to prevent damage to your engine. I would set it around 13.0, and a lean condition like that should never happen unless you have a problem with your fuel (i.e. fuel pump not working properly, fuel solenoid stops working, ect..) Your AFRs should be around mid 11's while spraying so be sure to keep an eye on that also. A window switch is another little module that will allow you to spray only during certain RPM's. This will help considerably with traction, and will also prevent you from spraying at to low of an RPM which would cause engine damage. I am going to spray my ap1 from 4000-8500 RPM just to be on the safe side of things. That will be plenty. Most of them also come with multi gear lockout, which will allow you to lockout a gear if you want to. In other words if you don't want to spray in 1st gear so you can make sure you get traction and everything, it won't spray in 1st, and will automatically start in 2nd gear during the RPM's you set it at, and at WOT. So this is all pretty much fool proof.
Q: Why is it better to freeze my nitrous bottle before taking it to get refilled?
A: What a lot of shops recommend is that you actually freeze your nitrous bottle over night before you take it to them to get refilled, they do this because the when they are re-filling the bottle, it will enter the bottle a lot easier and will take no time at all. There may be some other factors as well but it's not really too important.
Q: Should I use teflon tape on my fittings?
A: Yes it will be best to use it to prevent leaks, but do NOT put anything on any of the compression fittings in your nitrous kit. Also it has been recommended that you use liquid teflon on the fittings instead of the tape. The tape has been known to jam up into the lines and clog them, the liquid stuff would help prevent that.
Q: What other things would help my nitrous kit be efficient?
A: The main thing that would be recommended to use is a bottle heater for efficiency. Bottle heaters of course heat the bottle, but it's used to maintain pressure in the bottle. Any time nitrous is released from the bottle, the temperature of the remaining nitrous drops and the pressure follows in lock-step. Because the AFR of the nitrous system is directly affected by nitrous pressure, if the bottle temperature isn’t controlled the tune-up will be constantly changing. “Nitrous bottle pressure is directly determined by its temperature,” Patrick explains. “Optimum operation of a nitrous system occurs within the range of 900-1000 PSI. Pressure higher than 1000 PSI will produce excessive flow of nitrous that can cause lean spikes and engine damage or cause the solenoid to lock closed, preventing nitrous flow. Pressure lower than 900 PSI will produce an excessively rich condition resulting in horsepower loss.” What’s needed is a heater that can bring a bottle up to the proper temperature in the staging lanes, even on a cold night at the track, and keep it there between runs without overheating.
Q: What other small things would be good to have with a nitrous kit?
A: There are a couple things that would help you a lot. An electronic bottle opener would help you a ton, you don't want to be getting into your trunk everytime to turn your bottle on right? Didn't think so. If you unexpectedly want to run your nitrous, you can just flip a switch and turn the bottle on, easy as that. A nitrous pressure gauge would also help you monitor how much PSI is left in your bottle, that way you know when it's time to get a re-fill. Another thing would be a blow down tube, a blow down tube safely routes nitrous discharge from your blow-off cap to the outside if your bottle psi is to high and the disk inside ruptures. Some drag strips require these if you are running nitrous, but not all. It also may depend on if the bottle is in the driver compartment or in the trunk, it just all depends on where you go to the track and and what rules they have. I personally am not going to run one unless I absolutely have to at the track, I would just do it but you will have to drill a hole in your S to route it to the outside. I don't feel like making more holes in my S and it will be in the trunk so i'm not going to worry. You can do more research on that if you would like. Just something to be aware of though.
If you have something to add or need to correct something I said, go right ahead. If you are going to come into this thread to bash nitrous or anything, please just don't even post here. If you have any questions, feel free to ask anything. There is never a dumb question when it comes to these kind of things. I had to do TONS of research just to find all this information, and I just put it all together for you all to make it easy.
__________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ ____________
Here is a basic DIY install for the S for anyone interested: https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/741...itrous+install
__________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ _____________
Here is a list of my things I have. I may get a few more things down the road but this is it for now.
ZEX wet nitrous kit
ZEX window switch
ZEX remote bottle opener
ZEX purge system
Bottle warmer
AEM wideband
AEM fuel rail with 1/8th to -4AN fitting
My goal is 280whp & 220wtq with the 75 shot. My mods are a PRM intake, JVT header, Berk 63mm TP, and OEM exhaust. __________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ ____________
Here is a diagram of the main lines in the system. If you read the notes it's showing how it would be hooked up with an aftermarket fuel rail with the port on the end of it, and if you tapped into the fuel from there. All wet kits come with a T fitting (which is what most do, but I don't want to cut my fuel line) which you cut and install on your fuel line between the fuel pump and the fuel rail, and run the line from that T fitting to your fuel solenoid. I drew it and explained it the best I could in this diagram. If you have any questions or are confused about anything, just ask. This is just to make it a little easier for people to see how all the lines go.
__________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ ____________
Here are a few wire diagrams courtesy of Dynotune on how to wire up their lean shut-down switch.
Pic 1) Basic nitrous kit such as dynotune, NOS, ect...
Pic 2) Basic ZEX nitrous kit
Pic 3) Zex nitrous kit with ZEX window switch
1)
2)
3)
__________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ ___________
Wiring diagrams for ZEX window switch
Pic 1) Wiring to ZEX nitrous kit
Pic 2) Wiring to other nitrous kit (Dynotune, NOS, ect..)
1)
2)
** I will not be held liable if something goes wrong with your kit, or if you end up blowing your engine up. There are quite a few precautions you need to take before and while spraying nitrous, be sure to read this guide carefully. If installing nitrous onto your car, do it at your own risk.**
**06+ s2k owners, please read very carfully since yours will be a little different. Please refer to page 3 of this thread for the discussion and solutions for you guys.**
Here are the main questions you will get everyone asking.
Q: Can I run nitrous safely on my S?
A: Yes, as long as you know what you are doing. If you don't know how a nitrous system works, I would advise against you getting it until you do some more research, and hopefully this guide will help point you into the correct direction.
Q: What's better, a Wet shot or a Dry shot?
A: Personally I would only put a wet kit onto my S. Dry kits are okay, but are far more dangerous since you are only injecting nitrous into your motor, and relying on your ECU to compensate for the extra fuel needed and making your injectors work harder to try and keep up. A wet shot you tap into your fuel line, and hook it up to your nozzle so it mixes with the nitrous as it enters your engine. This way you can actually fine tune your nitrous system by using different types of nitrous and or fuel jets to get the HP shot you are looking for, and the right amount of fuel to run it safely. This also means you can keep your stock fuel injectors and don't have to over work them. A wet kit is a little harder to hook up, but it's really nothing to complicated. Most nitrous kit's come with full instructions and you can just follow that.
Q: What's the highest shot of nitrous I can run on my S?
A: It all depends on how far you are willing to go with it. For a basic wet kit without a tune, a 75 shot is the highest I would go. Anything after a 75 shot you are going to need a tune (EMS) and direct port injection to run it safely and efficently. I am going to be running a 75 wet shot on my S, I will get into more details about it later. There are some guys that are running a 100 shot without a tune but I would not recommend it. Bluemetals2k is running a 150 direct port shot with a tuned EMS with success. He also has a full standalone fuel system though to support it.
Q: Which nitrous kit is the best?
A: I prefer either a ZEX kit (which is what i'm going to be running, and what most of the nitrous guys here are running) or a Dynotune nitrous kit. I got a ZEX kit just because I found a good deal on the kit in the classifieds. Also ZEX has a very good name and all the guys using it here has proven that it is a reliable kit. I previously had a Dynotune kit on my old car which was also a very nice kit, and is very affordable. I know at least 1 guy that is using this kit on his S with no problems also. Other brands are nice too, but I would recommend one of these two first. **Note - 06+ s2000s are different, and can NOT run a Zex kit since it's TPS based. People have tried in the past with no luck. For you guys it would be best to get a kit with a mechanical WOT switch, Dynotune nitrous have very nice kits for great prices that will work for you guys.
Q: What kind of spark plugs should I run with nitrous?
A: I'm going to be running R5671A-8 4554 NGK Coppers gapped at .32 which are 1 step colder than OEM. Bluemetals2k recommended these to me and he is a nitrous geuru. With 75-100 shot 1 step colder plugs should be okay, and under a 75 shot colder plugs are not required. If you are doing around 100-150 I would recommend 2 step colder plugs. I'm getting the coppers because they have a shorter strap to get rid of heat faster and are the copper RACING plugs. Coppers are known to give the best power and be reliable, but they don't last as long as other plugs. That's fine though, they are only about $2.50 per plug, and should change them around every oil change. Also be sure to check your plugs after you spray to determine if you are running rich, lean, ect.. You can find charts all over the internet to determine what your plugs should look like.
Q: Do I need to upgrade my fuel system to run nitrous?
A: Once again, it depends. If you are running a dry shot, I would highly recommend you run some bigger injectors and an upgraded fuel pump along with a tune. With a wet shot you do not need to upgrade your injectors since the fuel is controlled by the fuel solenoid and jets. When I do my 75 wet shot i'm going to go ahead and get a 255lph Walbro fuel pump just for the extra insurance, and they are only around $100 so why not. Also if you are not wanting to tap into the fuel line for your wet kit, you can always get an aftermarket fuel rail with a port on the end and tap into your fuel from there. I know Inline Pro and AEM have nice fuel rails that would work perfect for this. I'm getting an AEM rail because AEM has really good feedback, it has the port on the end of it, it comes with the crush washers require to install, and comes with some new injector O-rings for you. This can be had for around $200. If you are wanting to tap into your fuel there you will need an adaptor so you can hook up your -4AN line to it. If you just search on Ebay you can find a 1/8th NPT to -4AN adaptor no problem for cheap. You can also get them at a lot of nitrous specialty stores. If running much more than a 100 shot I would get a standalone fuel system to support it. Note - "06+'s are once again a little different. To tap into your fuel you have to find a way to tap into the "plastic hard line" that the 06+ returnless system came with. Which is not difficult but you cant just use the T that comes with the unit since it wont fit in the fuel main line cause of the inner plastic." (Quoted from Luis06s2k) Also for guys that don't want to have to deal with that, Inline Pro does make fuel rails for 06+ s2k's which you can just tap into your fuel from the port on the end of it. That would make things a lot simpler and not have to mess with your fuel lines.
Q: Do I need an upgraded clutch after I install nitrous?
A: Our stock clutch can hold up to a 75 shot fine. An upgraded clutch would be recommended but it isn't required as long as your OEM clutch is in good shape. If you are going to be doing anything bigger than a 75 shot, start looking into upgraded clutches.
Q: Would different ratio diff gears go good with nitrous?
A: This is more of a personal preference imo. Usually when you add power to a car, you want the gears as long as possible without losing low end power. I honestly think stock gears are perfect for a nitrous setup but that's just me. There are some guys running 4.77 gears with nitrous and love it, just be warned though the gears will be really short, and you will be in 6th gear in no time. If you are just street driving or track your S, then I would keep the stock gearing. If you are looking to run up and down the drag strip with your nitrous, gears will help you on your times even though it requires more shifting.
Q: Do I need to build my engine before running nitrous?
A: Our s2000 engines hold up very well, and as long as you have a good tune (or if you have the right nitrous/fuel jets) you have nothing to worry about. Guys have boosted their S and made tons of power on an all stock engine with no problem. There are many 500+ HP guys out there on the stock internal engine running fine.
Q: Why would I choose nitrous over a turbo or supercharger?
A: I personally looked into doing a turbo or supercharger on my S, and it is going to be WAY more expensive than it is to have nitrous for a while. A decent turbo or supercharger setup is going to run you around $5000+, and it also affects the reliabilty of the car since you have so many extra things now, and have to deal with an EMS and tune and such. If running a 75 shot or below of nitrous, you can get a good 10 passes at the drag strip on a 10 lb bottle. It usually costs around $30-$40 to fill up a 10lb bottle and for me would last a couple of months at least since i'm not going to be spraying all the time. Nitrous kit's are also a lot cheaper, and can be safe if used right like stated before. A full nitrous kit with all the things needed can be had for around $1500 if you shop around. Also nitrous actually gives the s2000 torque which is awesome, and will give just as much if not more than a basic bolt on supercharger. A 300whp S with nitrous will be faster than a 300whp turbo or supercharged S. No having to wait for a turbo to spool, and you don't have to have power to make power like a supercharger. Also what if something goes bad in your turbo system? That means you can not drive the car at all until the problem is fixed. With a nitrous kit if something goes bad or breaks, you can still drive your S like normal, but you just can't use the nitrous. At least you can still drive the car at that point.
Q: What can I do to make my nitrous system safer?
A: There are a few little gadgets that you can purchase to make it a little safer to run nitrous. The main 3 would be a WOT switch, a lean shut down switch, and a window switch. Most kits like the ZEX and Dynotune come with a WOT switch, so you don't have to worry about that if you buy one of these kits. All it does is activate the nitrous ONLY when you are at WOT (wide open throttle) so you don't accidentally spray while not flooring it. A lean shut down switch monitors your AFR's and even has a nice display (I still highly recommend you invest in a wideband with your nitrous system if you get this or not. If you hook this up without a wideband it will only read the voltage which you will have to translate into AFR readings, and isn't near as accurate as a wideband. So I would still get a wideband and hook this up to it for the best monitoring). If a lean condition occurs while you have your nitrous activated, it will automatically shut your nitrous system down to prevent damage to your engine. I would set it around 13.0, and a lean condition like that should never happen unless you have a problem with your fuel (i.e. fuel pump not working properly, fuel solenoid stops working, ect..) Your AFRs should be around mid 11's while spraying so be sure to keep an eye on that also. A window switch is another little module that will allow you to spray only during certain RPM's. This will help considerably with traction, and will also prevent you from spraying at to low of an RPM which would cause engine damage. I am going to spray my ap1 from 4000-8500 RPM just to be on the safe side of things. That will be plenty. Most of them also come with multi gear lockout, which will allow you to lockout a gear if you want to. In other words if you don't want to spray in 1st gear so you can make sure you get traction and everything, it won't spray in 1st, and will automatically start in 2nd gear during the RPM's you set it at, and at WOT. So this is all pretty much fool proof.
Q: Why is it better to freeze my nitrous bottle before taking it to get refilled?
A: What a lot of shops recommend is that you actually freeze your nitrous bottle over night before you take it to them to get refilled, they do this because the when they are re-filling the bottle, it will enter the bottle a lot easier and will take no time at all. There may be some other factors as well but it's not really too important.
Q: Should I use teflon tape on my fittings?
A: Yes it will be best to use it to prevent leaks, but do NOT put anything on any of the compression fittings in your nitrous kit. Also it has been recommended that you use liquid teflon on the fittings instead of the tape. The tape has been known to jam up into the lines and clog them, the liquid stuff would help prevent that.
Q: What other things would help my nitrous kit be efficient?
A: The main thing that would be recommended to use is a bottle heater for efficiency. Bottle heaters of course heat the bottle, but it's used to maintain pressure in the bottle. Any time nitrous is released from the bottle, the temperature of the remaining nitrous drops and the pressure follows in lock-step. Because the AFR of the nitrous system is directly affected by nitrous pressure, if the bottle temperature isn’t controlled the tune-up will be constantly changing. “Nitrous bottle pressure is directly determined by its temperature,” Patrick explains. “Optimum operation of a nitrous system occurs within the range of 900-1000 PSI. Pressure higher than 1000 PSI will produce excessive flow of nitrous that can cause lean spikes and engine damage or cause the solenoid to lock closed, preventing nitrous flow. Pressure lower than 900 PSI will produce an excessively rich condition resulting in horsepower loss.” What’s needed is a heater that can bring a bottle up to the proper temperature in the staging lanes, even on a cold night at the track, and keep it there between runs without overheating.
Q: What other small things would be good to have with a nitrous kit?
A: There are a couple things that would help you a lot. An electronic bottle opener would help you a ton, you don't want to be getting into your trunk everytime to turn your bottle on right? Didn't think so. If you unexpectedly want to run your nitrous, you can just flip a switch and turn the bottle on, easy as that. A nitrous pressure gauge would also help you monitor how much PSI is left in your bottle, that way you know when it's time to get a re-fill. Another thing would be a blow down tube, a blow down tube safely routes nitrous discharge from your blow-off cap to the outside if your bottle psi is to high and the disk inside ruptures. Some drag strips require these if you are running nitrous, but not all. It also may depend on if the bottle is in the driver compartment or in the trunk, it just all depends on where you go to the track and and what rules they have. I personally am not going to run one unless I absolutely have to at the track, I would just do it but you will have to drill a hole in your S to route it to the outside. I don't feel like making more holes in my S and it will be in the trunk so i'm not going to worry. You can do more research on that if you would like. Just something to be aware of though.
If you have something to add or need to correct something I said, go right ahead. If you are going to come into this thread to bash nitrous or anything, please just don't even post here. If you have any questions, feel free to ask anything. There is never a dumb question when it comes to these kind of things. I had to do TONS of research just to find all this information, and I just put it all together for you all to make it easy.
__________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ ____________
Here is a basic DIY install for the S for anyone interested: https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/741...itrous+install
__________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ _____________
Here is a list of my things I have. I may get a few more things down the road but this is it for now.
ZEX wet nitrous kit
ZEX window switch
ZEX remote bottle opener
ZEX purge system
Bottle warmer
AEM wideband
AEM fuel rail with 1/8th to -4AN fitting
My goal is 280whp & 220wtq with the 75 shot. My mods are a PRM intake, JVT header, Berk 63mm TP, and OEM exhaust. __________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ ____________
Here is a diagram of the main lines in the system. If you read the notes it's showing how it would be hooked up with an aftermarket fuel rail with the port on the end of it, and if you tapped into the fuel from there. All wet kits come with a T fitting (which is what most do, but I don't want to cut my fuel line) which you cut and install on your fuel line between the fuel pump and the fuel rail, and run the line from that T fitting to your fuel solenoid. I drew it and explained it the best I could in this diagram. If you have any questions or are confused about anything, just ask. This is just to make it a little easier for people to see how all the lines go.
__________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ ____________
Here are a few wire diagrams courtesy of Dynotune on how to wire up their lean shut-down switch.
Pic 1) Basic nitrous kit such as dynotune, NOS, ect...
Pic 2) Basic ZEX nitrous kit
Pic 3) Zex nitrous kit with ZEX window switch
1)
2)
3)
__________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ ___________
Wiring diagrams for ZEX window switch
Pic 1) Wiring to ZEX nitrous kit
Pic 2) Wiring to other nitrous kit (Dynotune, NOS, ect..)
1)
2)
** I will not be held liable if something goes wrong with your kit, or if you end up blowing your engine up. There are quite a few precautions you need to take before and while spraying nitrous, be sure to read this guide carefully. If installing nitrous onto your car, do it at your own risk.**
05-17-2011, 03:09 PM
#3
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Thread Starter
Yeah I looked into getting a supercharger, but it would literally cost 4-5 times the amount I spent on this. I don't get on my S much but when I do it would be fun to have the extra power. Also guys with 75 shots are ranging between high 12's and low 13's in the 1/4 mile which is plenty fast for me. It's going to take me around 2 months just to get through 1 bottle since i'm not going to spraying that much. If I were going to be spraying all the time it would get expensive, but it's definetly the right choice for me.
05-17-2011, 03:40 PM
#6
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Thread Starter
Well my goal is around 280whp and 220 ft lbs torque with the 75 shot. Nitrous gives a ridiculous amount of torque which is awesome, and bluemetals currently has a 150 direct shot tuned and is pushing 390whp and 324tq, and his baseline NA is 215whp and 152tq so you can see how much it added. I'll hopefully have a dyno for you guys with the basic wet 75 shot in about a month. 
05-18-2011, 08:56 AM
#7
yup, spray is awesome! i wish i still had it but duty calls and it wasnt something that i HAD to have at the time. i agree with Suzuka 100 percent on everything he wrote. i have been sprayed...he knows his stuff. thanks for the thread Suzuka. Your going to love the spray. i want to do it again.
One thing i might add is you dont NEED a fuel rail, that is preference.
One thing i might add is you dont NEED a fuel rail, that is preference.
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05-18-2011, 08:59 AM
#8
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Thread Starter
Thanks man. Yeah I can't wait to get it all done, then go to the dyno to see what the difference is. Should be sweet!
Yes a fuel rail is just a preference, not a requirement. I don't feel like cutting and putting a T into my fuel line, so doing it through the aftermarket fuel rail will resolve that.
Yes a fuel rail is just a preference, not a requirement. I don't feel like cutting and putting a T into my fuel line, so doing it through the aftermarket fuel rail will resolve that.
05-18-2011, 09:12 AM
#9
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You said you are setting your lean-out switch to 12.1. This is actually a rich condition, as 14.7 is normal. I figured a lean-out switch would be set to around 15.5+.
05-18-2011, 09:22 AM
#10
Registered User
Thread Starter
Yes that was also recommended to me by another S owner that is running nitrous. 14.7 or higher at WOT with nitrous would blow your engine in no time. Your AFR is around 14-15 while cruising or at idle, but shouldnt be that way at WOT which is what matters. Most guys spraying are in the mid 11 AFR's while spraying at WOT which is very safe since it's still decently rich. You can lean it out to 12.1-12.5 on race gas and still be okay, but if it goes any leaner than that, you're probably going to run into some problems.