So I just finished installing a new clutch, the factory clutch was working great though it was buzzing and I am getting ready for more power. Long story short I replace the OEM flywheel and clutch assembly with an ACT Heavy Duty Clutch Disc, ACT Streetlight Pressure Plate, OEM Clutch Disc, OEM Throughout Bearing and OEM Pilot Bearing. I went to test drive the car this evening and I cannot get the clutch to fully release. I can shift it just fine with the car off but not running. If I start the car in gear I can get it moving and shift into higher forward gears with medium effort but going back to lower gears is near impossible. I can see the pressure plate and pushing the clutch does flex the fingers but it does not disengage fully.

I have check the following

1.) The Clutch Fork is properly seated and does pull on the clutch fingers
2.) Slave Cylinder for leaks or issues
3.) adjusted the clutch master cylinder all the way out
4.) Bled the system under pressure
5.) Check the torque on the PP bolts

The only thing I can think of is that either the slave cylinder is not moving as far as it should or there is a problem with the new parts. I have run this setup in many cars with an OEM flywheel, this however is the first time with the ACT flywheel.

 

Quick Update, I talked with about 50 people since last night.

First thing I called and spoke with ACT this morning. Based on our discussion he was not concerned with the installation. I did ask about the clutch disc our factory disc is 0.32" - 0.35" thick new and the ACT is 0.315" so they are not concerned about the thickness. They tech is running a few things by engineering and is supposed to call back later this afternoon.

Right now we have it narrowed down to the Hydraulic system or an issue with the pressure plate.

Just to rule out the hydraulic system I have ordered and Omni Power master cylinder, OEM slave cylinder and steel braided clutch line.

 

Is the fork in the correct location on the pilot bearing? I had an issue with mine when I did a clutch swap in which I inserted the fork prior to the trans being flush with the block. The car initially would start and I could go through the gears, but It wouldn't shift smoothly. Can you pull the fork off the bearing I guess is a good question?

 

You are second one to ask that question but I am unable to see how the fork to bearing interaction could be affected unless there was an issue at the clutch fulcrum. With that same idea in mind I did remove the clutch fork form the fulcrum socket and then reinserted it to test but there was no difference.
Thank you for the help. If you think of anything else please let me know.

 

I did that when I installed mine. I also thought there wasn't enough room for it to go in any other way. After removing it 3 times in just as many days, I realized it was inserted incorrectly. My fork was sandwiched between the fulcrum and bearing, which in turn limited movement. Mine experienced the same issues you are now. Outside of that, I would explore the hydraulic system. My master left the show shortly after all that trouble.

 

Ive had the exact same issue with mine. Its all in the adjustment. Adjusting the cmc all the way out is not correct. Thats exactly what i had thought thinking it would pull the pp further and disengage the clutch more but it would make it worse in my case. Again, theres a very small window of how the cmc to pedal is adjusted. Have patience it Took me almost 10 tries to get it right. It kinda helps to use a small vice grip clamped on the cmc rod that connects to the pedal so u can keep it in place while tightening the lock nut. Good luck and post back with updates

 

I will try to adjust again but there is something else wrong, I am pretty sure of it is something else.

I just talked with ACT again and they believe there may be a tolerance issue not seen before with the newly designed pressure plate when coupled with the OEM disc. The tolerances are very close and if the OEM clutch disc is pretty thick it could cause an issue. If I pull the parts they offered to inspect the assembly and test it with the OEM disc free of charge. ACT knows that one the preferred setups is to use the OEM disc and they are will to make changes if there is some issue with the combination.

 

I will try to adjust again but there is something else wrong, I am pretty sure of it is something else.

I just talked with ACT again and they believe there may be a tolerance issue not seen before with the newly designed pressure plate when coupled with the OEM disc. The tolerances are very close and if the OEM clutch disc is pretty thick it could cause an issue. If I pull the parts they offered to inspect the assembly and test it with the OEM disc free of charge. ACT knows that one the preferred setups is to use the OEM disc and they are will to make changes if there is some issue with the combination.

 

Is there really a difference? My act pp has a honda stamp under the yellow powdercoating. Like if it was just a rebuilt oem unit with added spring plates adding more force. Then again i bought my pp a year ago from a member here and who knows when he purchased it..

 

Here is the detail on the new Pressure Plate design. There is a ton of detials on it in the FI section

https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/698..._act+crankwalk

https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/928...#entry21406990