How to adjust camber degree 0
http://images.craigslist.org/5G45F75...d5e5ea1e3a.jpg
Hello guys,
I bought my car not too long ago and the rear are sitting like this. I pretty have to swap tires every six months....
Does anyone knows how to make it straight and not camber like it is now?
Do I need a ball joint? or an alignment?
im still a newwbie at this... so any suggestion would be nice.
Thanks in advance

Hello guys,
I bought my car not too long ago and the rear are sitting like this. I pretty have to swap tires every six months....
Does anyone knows how to make it straight and not camber like it is now?
Do I need a ball joint? or an alignment?
im still a newwbie at this... so any suggestion would be nice.
Thanks in advance
Camber won't kill your tires nearly as bad as toe will. Go to an alignment shop and have them put it into OEM spec and your tire problems should go away. It's probably just time for an alignment.
-Mike
-Mike
if you put your rear camber to 0 you might as well just back your car straight into a wall.
Our cars have rear camber for a reason. It helps keep the tires planted while cornering. With 0 Camber your rear end will loose traction very easily and you'll spin out. this is because under cornering the camber will flatten out, thus it you have 0 camber you'll actually go positive camber while cornering.
There is no reason you should be going through tires every 6 months. What kind of tires do you have? How often do you floor it and spin the rear tires? I have run very sticky tires like Dunlop Star Specs and even the OEM RE50s have lasted me at least 15k miles. If your expecting 50k out of your tires then you bought the wrong car. Its not gonna happen and still have good traction.
in regards to your tire wear. I actually run 2.8 rear camber and 2.0 front camber all the time on the street. Yes my inside edge wears faster than the outside edge, but because i keep my toe close to stock the wear is very good and I still get at least 15k out of my tires. In fact, when I was supercharged I got 20k out of my star specs. (because I was able to flip them on the rim when they started to show visual inside edge wear) I also didnt ever spin the tires or do burn outs.
Our cars have rear camber for a reason. It helps keep the tires planted while cornering. With 0 Camber your rear end will loose traction very easily and you'll spin out. this is because under cornering the camber will flatten out, thus it you have 0 camber you'll actually go positive camber while cornering.
There is no reason you should be going through tires every 6 months. What kind of tires do you have? How often do you floor it and spin the rear tires? I have run very sticky tires like Dunlop Star Specs and even the OEM RE50s have lasted me at least 15k miles. If your expecting 50k out of your tires then you bought the wrong car. Its not gonna happen and still have good traction.
in regards to your tire wear. I actually run 2.8 rear camber and 2.0 front camber all the time on the street. Yes my inside edge wears faster than the outside edge, but because i keep my toe close to stock the wear is very good and I still get at least 15k out of my tires. In fact, when I was supercharged I got 20k out of my star specs. (because I was able to flip them on the rim when they started to show visual inside edge wear) I also didnt ever spin the tires or do burn outs.
Just tell the alignment guy to add positive toe-in to the rear of the car. if the rear negative camber is a little higher than normal, just make the toe-in a little higher than mormal.
This will solve your wear issues 100%.
This will solve your wear issues 100%.
The camber in the picture looks pretty extreme, but be warned... if the wheels that are on the car are some crazy "hellaflush" offset then the previous owner probably put that much camber for a reason, to prevent the wheels/tires from fawking up the fenders. Do you have the same wheels on the car? Do you know what size/offset they are? Have the fenders been rolled?
Any alignment shop should be able to get you back to stock specifications, just be alert that aftermarket wheels with crazy sizes/offsets can cause big issues.
Any alignment shop should be able to get you back to stock specifications, just be alert that aftermarket wheels with crazy sizes/offsets can cause big issues.
If you DD your S and don't track it this is a good set up for the rear
1.8- rear camber each side with no toe.
I run this on the street and I get good mileage on my tires(Continental ExtremeContact DWs).
ROD
1.8- rear camber each side with no toe.
I run this on the street and I get good mileage on my tires(Continental ExtremeContact DWs).
ROD
noo, they're just ap2 (=
The camber in the picture looks pretty extreme, but be warned... if the wheels that are on the car are some crazy "hellaflush" offset then the previous owner probably put that much camber for a reason, to prevent the wheels/tires from fawking up the fenders. Do you have the same wheels on the car? Do you know what size/offset they are? Have the fenders been rolled?
Any alignment shop should be able to get you back to stock specifications, just be alert that aftermarket wheels with crazy sizes/offsets can cause big issues.
Any alignment shop should be able to get you back to stock specifications, just be alert that aftermarket wheels with crazy sizes/offsets can cause big issues.
Trending Topics
Thanks for replying, but no i rarely spun the wheels unless its really slippery or something.
if you put your rear camber to 0 you might as well just back your car straight into a wall.
Our cars have rear camber for a reason. It helps keep the tires planted while cornering. With 0 Camber your rear end will loose traction very easily and you'll spin out. this is because under cornering the camber will flatten out, thus it you have 0 camber you'll actually go positive camber while cornering.
There is no reason you should be going through tires every 6 months. What kind of tires do you have? How often do you floor it and spin the rear tires? I have run very sticky tires like Dunlop Star Specs and even the OEM RE50s have lasted me at least 15k miles. If your expecting 50k out of your tires then you bought the wrong car. Its not gonna happen and still have good traction.
in regards to your tire wear. I actually run 2.8 rear camber and 2.0 front camber all the time on the street. Yes my inside edge wears faster than the outside edge, but because i keep my toe close to stock the wear is very good and I still get at least 15k out of my tires. In fact, when I was supercharged I got 20k out of my star specs. (because I was able to flip them on the rim when they started to show visual inside edge wear) I also didnt ever spin the tires or do burn outs.
Our cars have rear camber for a reason. It helps keep the tires planted while cornering. With 0 Camber your rear end will loose traction very easily and you'll spin out. this is because under cornering the camber will flatten out, thus it you have 0 camber you'll actually go positive camber while cornering.
There is no reason you should be going through tires every 6 months. What kind of tires do you have? How often do you floor it and spin the rear tires? I have run very sticky tires like Dunlop Star Specs and even the OEM RE50s have lasted me at least 15k miles. If your expecting 50k out of your tires then you bought the wrong car. Its not gonna happen and still have good traction.
in regards to your tire wear. I actually run 2.8 rear camber and 2.0 front camber all the time on the street. Yes my inside edge wears faster than the outside edge, but because i keep my toe close to stock the wear is very good and I still get at least 15k out of my tires. In fact, when I was supercharged I got 20k out of my star specs. (because I was able to flip them on the rim when they started to show visual inside edge wear) I also didnt ever spin the tires or do burn outs.











