How to change your coolant for dummies-
#13
I tackled the job yesterday,I guess I'm more than a dummy because it took me forever, but I learned in the end.
A few points to note:
1.) run car until the fan cuts on, maybe a few seconds more. Keep the front air bleed closed while this happens. You need to heat the air that's trapped so it builds pressure and wants to escape the system.
2.) Then TURN OFF THE CAR!!!, then open the front bleed bolt. Let the air hiss out on it's own, and then squeeze the upper rad hose repeatedly until coolant comes out. Once coolant comes out the bleed bolt close it, but keep the hose squeezed while you do it otherwise you'll suck more air in the system, which is the opposite of what we want. You closed the bleed bolt while squeezing the rad hose right?
3.) Add coolant if needed to the radiator itself, make sure the car is still turned off while you do this, your bleed bolt is still closed right?
4.) Now turn the car on again with the bleed bolt closed, just let her run till the fan cuts on again, now turn the car off and repeat the steps. After about 3 times doing this it should be good to go, put your rad cap back on and go for a short drive.
Just trying to make the instructions clear for the people without common sense.
A few points to note:
1.) run car until the fan cuts on, maybe a few seconds more. Keep the front air bleed closed while this happens. You need to heat the air that's trapped so it builds pressure and wants to escape the system.
2.) Then TURN OFF THE CAR!!!, then open the front bleed bolt. Let the air hiss out on it's own, and then squeeze the upper rad hose repeatedly until coolant comes out. Once coolant comes out the bleed bolt close it, but keep the hose squeezed while you do it otherwise you'll suck more air in the system, which is the opposite of what we want. You closed the bleed bolt while squeezing the rad hose right?
3.) Add coolant if needed to the radiator itself, make sure the car is still turned off while you do this, your bleed bolt is still closed right?
4.) Now turn the car on again with the bleed bolt closed, just let her run till the fan cuts on again, now turn the car off and repeat the steps. After about 3 times doing this it should be good to go, put your rad cap back on and go for a short drive.
Just trying to make the instructions clear for the people without common sense.
#14
Also after you turn the car off in step 2 you can temporarily put the rad cap on. This will help prevent a big ol' mess. Remove the cap before you turn the car on again. Don't worry since the car is off the system is not going to build pressure.
#15
Great write up and good pics
The fluid level in the radiator rises up as soon as the thermostat opens (while idling) and then the fans will kick in at that point and the fluid level drops down. I keep the car running for a while as the fluid level settles back down quickly from the tidal wave effect. If you fill to the base of the filler neck it won't spill out too much, and I keep old rags around the filler opening. I let the fans kick in a few times while the car keeps idling, so I don't start and stop the engine. Later in the day after doing the procedure I will open the rad cap and double check the fluid level when everything is totally cool, and I will add fluid if needed and double check the fluid level in the overflow tank. Sometimes I'll find the fluid level has dropped a tad so I'll just top it off when cold.
The fluid level in the radiator rises up as soon as the thermostat opens (while idling) and then the fans will kick in at that point and the fluid level drops down. I keep the car running for a while as the fluid level settles back down quickly from the tidal wave effect. If you fill to the base of the filler neck it won't spill out too much, and I keep old rags around the filler opening. I let the fans kick in a few times while the car keeps idling, so I don't start and stop the engine. Later in the day after doing the procedure I will open the rad cap and double check the fluid level when everything is totally cool, and I will add fluid if needed and double check the fluid level in the overflow tank. Sometimes I'll find the fluid level has dropped a tad so I'll just top it off when cold.
#16
I'm going to have to do this now that I've pulled off the factory oil cooler to install my turbo kit. The coolant that is in my car is not the Honda coolant (it isn't blue, it is a reddish color). I obviously want to switch to the Honda coolant. How do you recommend I flush the system of the old stuff?
#18
Like it says in the post, open the front bleed bolt then the radiator cap, and then unscrew the drain plug at the bottom of the radiator. If you really want to get all the old fluid out, there's a rubber nipple with a spring clamp at the back of the engine bay on the fire wall. Close the front bleed bolt and the radiator cap, then take that off and blow compressed air into the opening. It doesn't take much air pressure and this will force out all the old coolant, I mean ALL the old coolant. Don't take off the drain plug all the way because it will make a mess. I'd say about 10 minutes of blowing air in the hole will be more than enough to drain 99% of everything in the cooling system.
#20
Thanks for the great write-up!
I have a question regarding switching over from Honda green coolant to the new blue coolant. I've read that all MY00 came with the Type I green coolant. To switch over to the blue stuff, how does one go about getting all the old coolant out?
Drain & fill with Type II coolant, run the car until the radiator fans kick in a few times, repeat the step 3-4 times?
OR
Drain & fill with distilled water, run the car until the radiator fans kick in a few times, repeat until radiator drains clear water, and then drain & fill with Type II coolant a couple more times to maintain the right 50/50 mixture?
I know these may sound overkill, but I want to be sure both types of coolant are not mixing. Any inputs would be appreciated.
I have a question regarding switching over from Honda green coolant to the new blue coolant. I've read that all MY00 came with the Type I green coolant. To switch over to the blue stuff, how does one go about getting all the old coolant out?
Drain & fill with Type II coolant, run the car until the radiator fans kick in a few times, repeat the step 3-4 times?
OR
Drain & fill with distilled water, run the car until the radiator fans kick in a few times, repeat until radiator drains clear water, and then drain & fill with Type II coolant a couple more times to maintain the right 50/50 mixture?
I know these may sound overkill, but I want to be sure both types of coolant are not mixing. Any inputs would be appreciated.