rush2redline

Rush2Redline "Sanaki" Autocross / Track Build
Last edited: 11/05/2021

2004 Rio Yellow Pearl
Mileage: 110K (purchased at 97K)





Reliability > Performance > Aesthetics > Comfort

"I decided to make a build thread to keep myself focused. The car's goal is to compete in SCCA STR and TT4 NASA."
When reality struck that I was a mediocre driver, I had to come to terms and I decided the risk of track time far outweighed the benefits and I decided to focus heavily on autocross driving and car control. I did do several track days this year though, and I felt I made adequate progress in reducing my lap times at a small benchmark track.

"I don't need to win per-say, but if I can be competitive with other S2K's on the field and keep the ND2 Miata's honest, I'll be happy." - R2R 2020
No, I couldn't realistically keep up with the good drivers in ND2's. It was hardly a competition. The ND2 is silly fast when built for autocross.

"I picked up my S2000 probably because I wanted to become a better driver."- R2R 2020
I do feel much more comfortable with the car and driving cars in general. My driving style has truly changed for the better and I'm more confident in any car in any situation.

"My other goal was to simply build a reliable badass track/project car." - R2R 2020
The S2000 has been far more reliable than my daily driver, a 2011 Subaru WRX STI. It often takes me to work and I've done several long road trips in it - albeit not the most comfortable.


Current Mods
Suspension:
- JRZ RS Pro 2-Way Adjustable Coilovers 800lbs Front / 600lbs&150lbs Rear
- Karcepts Swaybar Front
- Karcepts Swaybar Rear
- Baero Offset Camber Upper Front Bushings
- Powerflex Shock Bushings
- Prothane Polyurethane Bushings
- Hardrace Compliance Bushings

Brakes:
- Hawk DTC-60 Brakes
- Stoptech SS Brake Lines
- Centric Premium Blank Rotors
- Motul RBF600 Brake Fluid

Wheels:
- Flow Racing F2 18x10.5+50 & Yokohama A052 265/35R18
- WedSport SA-72R 17x10+55 & Falken RT660 255/40R17
- Volk CE28CRII 17x9.5+45 & BFGoodrich Rival S1.5 245/40R17
- Tire Rack Motorsports C3 17x9+62 & Bridgestone Potenza RE71R 255/40R17
- OEM AP2V1 Bridgestone Potenza RE71R
- Kics R40 Lugs

Engine:
- Radium Oil Catch Can
- K&N Intake
- PLM 4-2-1 Headers (ceramic coated)
- Berk 63.5mm HFC
- OEM Exhaust
- NGK Iridium Spark Plugs

Exterior:
- Rockstar Garage RX7 Side Skirts
- Replica CR-Type Lip
- Replica CR Wing (Trunk 1)
- Replica Spoon Wing (Trunk 2)
- Tow Hook F/R

Interior & Safety
- Hard Dog Double Diagonal Roll Bar
- Cobra Nogaro Vinyl/Dynamica (Driver)
- PCI Sliding Seat Rail
- Scroth 2x2 Profi 6Pt Harness
- Sony Bluetooth Head Unit
- Modrify Cup Holder
- Modrify Phone Holder
- CR Shift Knob

MAVTS2k

Very nice. Sorry about the rear-end damage.

You and I chatted quite a bit during H Day in Epping NH over the summer. I had the Silverstone AP1 which was pretty much all stock. Looking forward to following your build.

Live Fast

It's nice to see some people staying with the S2k. For brake ducts NAUS did a great video for the rear. For up front the Baero STR ones will work great for your AP2.

You might also want to consider the AP1 reduction gear to get the taller 2nd gear.

freddydela

Oh man brake failure sounds awful that any circumstance. I'm it worked out okay. Let us know how the sport pads hold up to track use.

rush2redline

I picked up my S2K bone stock from a friend of mine who kept the car well maintained and garaged. I felt guilty taking it off his hands. I told him "You know, I'm going to turn this thing into a racecar." His only response was "You're going to use it for what it was intended to do".

I named the car Sanaki because it had the letters S and K in the name. I'm unoriginal and I snatched the name from a Fire Emblem character. My niece calls it Pikachu.



May the mods begin!


The very first mods were to prepare the car to be track legal. Bridgestone Potenza RE71Rs in 215/45 and 245/40 tires. My friends told me not to mess with the car yet outside of Tires, Brakes, and fluids.


I didn't want to do this mod, honestly, but I put in a Double Diagonal Hard Dog Roll Bar, only because certain organizations wouldn't let me on the track without one. I also competed locally in Autocross every other weekend in an attempt to get a better feel for the car at the limit.
The "全力でハシル !" said as "Zenryoku de Hashiru!" which literally translates to "Run at Full Power", but means "With all your might!"



After near catastrophic brake failure and lift-off oversteer on the track I decided to make some safety upgrades.


The all important "Driver Mod" has taught me, never lift off the throttle mid corner. Keep the throttle stable and make steering wheel corrections. I wish it occurred at a parking lot Autocross instead of a track with a concrete wall.

And the repairs and upgrades begin...


The Moddiction Saner front sway bar was bought second hand so I sanded the paint off and coated it with leftover silver paint. Stoptech Stainless Steel Brakelines, Stoptech Sport Pads, and some high temperature DOT4 LV brake fluid. Not shown are the rotors which are Napa Auto premium brake rotors.
The swaybar is presently run in the stiffest setting at 739lbs spring rate with a 63%F 37% rear bias.



The car has slight understeer on turn in which is confidence inspiring at AX.






No worries, all fixed. HDay was a fun one, it's funny how we know eachother all by what car we drive. I'll see you at the next New England S2000 cruise or event

The Sport pads are rated for like 212-1300*F and they didn't fade on the same track which was nice. My front tires overheated and gave up before my brake pads did -- so you know which mod will have to come next.

As much as STR sounds enticing, the new XSA class seems more forgiving. It's more of an exhibition class, but it's geared towards road legal cars on 200 treadwear tires that still want to compete in AX without going up against Race Compound competitors. It's getting harder to find 9.0 wheel options I actually like for the S2000 without looking overtly convex. I have the Baero fronts but not the STR legal one and I didnt even know you had to get special STR legal ducts... The rears seem nice though, I'll get those this winter.

rush2redline

I finished off the season with a track day. It felt great and I continue to learn more about the car and what it's capable of ... but also some of the problems it has which need to be addressed.

I had brought the car to the tire shop for an alignment and I had some specifications in mind, but the mechanic told me about some seized adjusters and some cracked bushings. A painfully common failure point for the S2K. They weren't able to align it to the specs but kept it within factory. The rear toe was locked in +0.18 degrees so they tried to make the other side match. Not good for a car that already likes to oversteer under compression.



The car is on stands for the winter as I prepare the suspension for an overhaul. There are 4/8 seized bolts on the car; both front casters, right rear toe cracked and worn, and right front camber adjusters are seized.
Rather than ordering a few replacement bushings, I ordered a set of polyurethane bushings from Prothane Suspensions and some bolts Front, Rear, and bolts as needed.
I'll be removing the control arms to clean them up and powder coat them.
It should have this 100K mile, 16 year old car feeling fresh again.

freddydela

I think refreshing the suspension will be a fantastic upgrade! I will keep an eye on how it turns out for you since I'm doing the same thing to mine with OEM bushings.

Live Fast

I would recommend keeping the engine/trans/diff mounts all hard rubber instead of poly since Poly deforms when use any of it as a lift point & the hardened rubber (Hardrace/Mugen/Spoon) all seem to give great improvement without much NVH added.

For the bushings, it would be a great time to add the Delrin Offset front UCA bushing to gain some fender clearance + Camber. I have mine from @roel03 and they were relatively easy to install just by freezing the bushing.

roel03

Black Friday sale is still active as well. Have a decent amount of bushings left in stock.

rush2redline

Sorry I haven't updated this thread in a while!

Over the winter, the car lived primarily on jack stands. The removal of the suspension went slower than I had anticipated. As the election ended, my health care facility experienced a spike in COVID and I ended up working more hours than I wanted to. I had estimated it would take me two weeks to remove all of the suspension components, but as I spent more time under the car, I discovered more seized bolts. I had 4 seized adjusters and a couple of bolts which I cut off. After everything was removed, I had to plan for how to remove the bushings.

I purchased a Harbor Freight 20 Ton hydraulic press and a ball joint removal cup set. I pressed out all of the components I could and then for the places which were more unique, I used a propane torch and burned the rubber out. I'd like to think that I saved myself some money in doing this all myself.

I decided to clean up all of the control arms while they were off the car. They were all horribly rusted, but structurally sound. I called a company to get a quote on the sandblasting but I wasn't willing to pay the amount. I took them to my friend's home to get them sandblasted for free, but when we realized his compressor was so small it would take us 30-90 minutes per part, we quickly gave up. I sprayed them all with rust remover and let it sit over night, then used a wire brush to take off any surface rust. For difficult spots, I attached a wire brush to a drill and began inhaling. By the time I was finished, my mask was covered in black and brown dust, but it was worth it. I wiped all the parts down with an alcohol soaked rag, then let them dry. I sanded the bushing holes and masked them all, then sprayed the parts with a rust inhibitor, several coats of silver high temperature enamel, and finally some high temperature clear enamel from my local hardware store for extra protection.



The polyurethane bushings were much easier to install than to take off. The only thing I noted was that this was a messy job. My hands were completely covered in grease and all of my cups and sockets were eventually coated in grease. Stock up on Goo-Gone. The car squeaked and creaked and I realized there are so many more places which need grease than I thought. Just grease everything.

While the exhaust was off, I decided to install a Miata MX5 NC Swaybar to my rear suspension. Everyone seemed to have them in my local Miata club so it was a no-brainer.



I reinstalled all the pieces and torqued everything down to specs I found from S2Ki and sent it to Main Street Auto, the home base of Renegade Miata, for an alignment.
Alignment Specs:
Front Caster: 5.5*
Front Camber: 3.3*
Rear Camber 3.0*
Rear Toe-In .38mm

After the alignment, the car has been a pleasure and a joy to drive! It feels great to have the car back on the road.