bgoetz

I think all of that will be further down the list, I still have hope I can DIY and save the threads. Here is my plan:

-I heated and ran a candle up along side tonight, I will wait till tomorrow and try some big vice grips to see if just maybe I get lucky. I will be careful to not mangle the bottom of the stud. If that doesn't work

-drill a 1/8" hole through the center all the way through and use it to feed PB blaster over the top and down onto it. Then try vice grips again. If that doesn't work

-weld another nut on using a different method than before. If that doesn't work

-at this point I could continue drilling in hope that eventually it collapses and at each pass try to torque it loose. If I get close to damaging the threads in the nut then maybe consider cutting a notch and use a impact driver to actually drive the stud into the frame beyond the nut. If none of these work it may be helicoil time.

I tossed up some pics so you can see the mess

bgoetz

Actually the more I think about the problem (rust above the captive nut), I may try some phosphoric acid once I drill a hole up the center. If I can get that in contact with the rust and break it down, then put PB blaster over it maybe that is best.

bgoetz

Well getting them out the "traditional way" isn't happening, this has been quite the learning experience. I am maybe able to collapse the bolt in now as I have actually drilled a bit off-center and am starting to split the bolt along the one side. I think if I can work the bolt away from the threads with a hammer and vice grips that is my best bet to save the threads. Even for a helicoil I think I need the bolt out of there without drilling larger. I am right at the edge of the captive nut and can just start to see threads, I don't want to get into it with a drill until I drill out for the helicoil. At this point I have 25-30hrs into this mistake

bruthaboost

This works for crank shaft bolts, but since you don't have a hex head to torque on, it may not. You can invert a can of compressed air to spray propellant at the bolt. This will get the bolt really cold-like contracting metal cold. I'm not sure if you'll be able to get the cold to travel high enough to the captive nut threads, but a can of compressed air is cheap, and this takes little time to attempt. Spray the bolt down until you see it getting frosty, then keep spraying a bit more. The bolt will be colder than the surrounding metal. Throw your removal device of choice and have at it.

HTH

edit: had another idea. Is there enough room to do a jam nut? Even if you have to shave them down some, you just need enough to get a 6 point box end on it OR orient the two jam nuts to overlap perfectly for a twelve point socket..

Car Analogy

Be careful not to break a drill bit, then you'll make the situation worse.

This one of those right tool for the job situations. I've been down similar roads in the past, and spent hours upon hours dealing with a single frozen broken bolt, using the kind of tools you're working with.

But using the right tool you could be done in about 15 min. The right tool is heat. Tremendous heat. That thing will come right out with heat.

There are several means to generate this heat. All expounded upon in this thread. Pick one.

bgoetz

i am beyond heat man, I have drilled clear through them with a 5/16", there isn't much left and I can start to see threads in spots. We welded another nut on and got on it pretty good, but it tore the bolt off more. So my next step is a die grinder from the inside through the 5/16" holes and slowly expose the threads in the captive nut. I would go one size bigger with the drill but I am afraid that I am going to really get into the threads in spots

Car Analogy

Next time, start with heat. That and back out, go back in, little by little so you don't break it in the first place.

bgoetz

trust me, I have learned my lesson. I will never force anything again, ever!

rpg51

We have all broken off bolts. Sometimes its difficult to know how much pressure is too much pressure.

t777jb

Any updates on this? I'm interested to hear your resolution and what you think of the collars. I saw in another thread that you were installing Ohlins as well and wondering if you had those on yet. I'm nearby and would like to see how your car rides now as those both sound like quality upgrades.