Drain Holes: Inject Anti-Corrosion
#1
Drain Holes: Inject Anti-Corrosion
In an effort to keep my 2009 free from long term corrosion I am seriously thinking about injecting some form of anti-corrosion product into the sills and anywhere else that is prone to rust. I've found a product that will work (Bilt Hamber Dynax S50), but please could I ask if anyone has suggestions about where all the drain holes are?
Some are obvious, but of course the more I can treat the better. So, any advice on where to find all the drain holes, or if you've discovered some that are hidden and not obvious, please post up and let me know.
Cheers
Some are obvious, but of course the more I can treat the better. So, any advice on where to find all the drain holes, or if you've discovered some that are hidden and not obvious, please post up and let me know.
Cheers
#2
Work your way along the sills ..remove the front arch liners there's one behind there..at rear arches poke the nozzle upwards just before the wheel and around the wheel arch there's a grommet behind the little plastic piece front of rear wheel back of sill.
Then in all the holes in rear sub frame chassis..
Are you using the cans or buying 5litre tub ?
Then in all the holes in rear sub frame chassis..
Are you using the cans or buying 5litre tub ?
#4
I've done this already with the S-50 Aerosols. Works great. I would recommend the BH Dynax UB which is a paint on underseal for the wheel arches. Much more durable. Having said that, I have trialled the S50 Aerosols on exterior rust spots and it does not dry out completely and seems durable enough. I would use S50 on hard to reach places underneath or high up in the rear where the fuel tank lives.
In fact I removed the rear wheel arch protectors and cleaned them up, masked off with tape and painted them with the BH UB underseal. Much neater and will not hide any corrosion like the strips do. Worked perfectly well this way for my previous Honda Prelude which I restored. It was on years with no rust. Just make sure you paint up the joints on the inner lip with it to seal it.
I also removed the boot liners altogether and sprayed the S50 Aerosols into the rear wheel arches and into the seams. Rust was starting there also!! (from the inside out). I treated this with Hydrate-80 to convert it - then sprayed S50 over the top. Its inaccessible otherwise. I took pics with my phone to check coverage.
I was shocked by the surface rust behind the plastic strakes in the leading rear wheel arch. I used BH Deox-Gel to remove all the rust back to clean metal then a coat of Hydrate-80 - followed by Dynax UB.
In fact I removed the rear wheel arch protectors and cleaned them up, masked off with tape and painted them with the BH UB underseal. Much neater and will not hide any corrosion like the strips do. Worked perfectly well this way for my previous Honda Prelude which I restored. It was on years with no rust. Just make sure you paint up the joints on the inner lip with it to seal it.
I also removed the boot liners altogether and sprayed the S50 Aerosols into the rear wheel arches and into the seams. Rust was starting there also!! (from the inside out). I treated this with Hydrate-80 to convert it - then sprayed S50 over the top. Its inaccessible otherwise. I took pics with my phone to check coverage.
I was shocked by the surface rust behind the plastic strakes in the leading rear wheel arch. I used BH Deox-Gel to remove all the rust back to clean metal then a coat of Hydrate-80 - followed by Dynax UB.
#6
Good info - I noticed Opie Oils sell the BiltHamber stuff https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/116...ay-with-acf-50
Doctor Mx5 is only just down the road from me so think I'll be paying him a visit at some point
Doctor Mx5 is only just down the road from me so think I'll be paying him a visit at some point
#7
Hey, H10DNR
Thanks for the post! You have done almost exactly what I am proposing using the exact same anti-corrosion and protection products. And from what you say, with a good result!
Would you do the same again, or is there anything you would change? Did you pull the drain plugs and spray the inside of the sills?
Thanks for the post! You have done almost exactly what I am proposing using the exact same anti-corrosion and protection products. And from what you say, with a good result!
Would you do the same again, or is there anything you would change? Did you pull the drain plugs and spray the inside of the sills?
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#8
I'm looking to start my anti-corrosion project shortly and getting together all the necessary products and a plan of action.
Another quick question regarding where to treat, does anyone think there would be a benefit in treating inside the front wing? Simply remove the indicator repeater and spray inside with Dynax S50 using the flexible injection lance. Does the S suffer with corrosion inside the front wing, or just the front wheel arch?
Any thoughts?
Another quick question regarding where to treat, does anyone think there would be a benefit in treating inside the front wing? Simply remove the indicator repeater and spray inside with Dynax S50 using the flexible injection lance. Does the S suffer with corrosion inside the front wing, or just the front wheel arch?
Any thoughts?
#9
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I'm looking to start my anti-corrosion project shortly and getting together all the necessary products and a plan of action.
Another quick question regarding where to treat, does anyone think there would be a benefit in treating inside the front wing? Simply remove the indicator repeater and spray inside with Dynax S50 using the flexible injection lance. Does the S suffer with corrosion inside the front wing, or just the front wheel arch?
Any thoughts?
Another quick question regarding where to treat, does anyone think there would be a benefit in treating inside the front wing? Simply remove the indicator repeater and spray inside with Dynax S50 using the flexible injection lance. Does the S suffer with corrosion inside the front wing, or just the front wheel arch?
Any thoughts?
Front wings are easily replaced and relatively cheap, so it's probably not worth it IMHO.
#10
I found surface rust behind the indicators on the Prelude which was not visible on the outside and also the beginnings on the tabs where the clips go. I don't think the S will be any different.
I would remove the arch liner to inspect. On the Prelude I was able to use BH deox gel to remove the surface rust back to clean metal. Then paint with Hydrate 80 and then S50.
I would remove the arch liner to inspect. On the Prelude I was able to use BH deox gel to remove the surface rust back to clean metal. Then paint with Hydrate 80 and then S50.
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