How tight is enough?
#1
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I've no torque wrench and need to tighten some aluminum wheels on my car, Konig Imagine 19" to be exact (just finished painting calipers). I'm using a 1/2" bolt breaker bar (24") w/ a 3/4" socket (3") on the wheel lugs (lots of leverage).
I've been told by some locals S owners that I should do it as hard as possible w/ 2 hands and full body weight b/c these lugs and threads can take the force.
Problem is, I have a history of always stripping bolts and bending Allen keys when over-tightening by hand.
Is it true that these things don't break nor strip and if not, how should I do this by hand?
Thanks guys!
I've been told by some locals S owners that I should do it as hard as possible w/ 2 hands and full body weight b/c these lugs and threads can take the force.
Problem is, I have a history of always stripping bolts and bending Allen keys when over-tightening by hand.
Is it true that these things don't break nor strip and if not, how should I do this by hand?
Thanks guys!
#2
You should ALWAYS use a torque wrench to torque down lugs. Over-tightening can cause lugs to strip or studs to break. Also, uneven torque has also been known to warp brake rotors. A torque wrench won't set you back much, so why take the risk?
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Originally posted by fly_S2K
You should ALWAYS use a torque wrench to torque down lugs. Over-tightening can cause lugs to strip or studs to break. Also, uneven torque has also been known to warp brake rotors. A torque wrench won't set you back much, so why take the risk?
You should ALWAYS use a torque wrench to torque down lugs. Over-tightening can cause lugs to strip or studs to break. Also, uneven torque has also been known to warp brake rotors. A torque wrench won't set you back much, so why take the risk?
Thanks. I thought I read somewhere that these things do break. Can't believe the local guys are telling me this is not a problem.
Wouldn't have taken the risk had I known it was a risk. Should've checked w/ you experts b4 painting my calipers.
But tell me something, aren't these things designed to be hand-tightened? Not everyone changing a flat along the road would have access to a torque wrench would they?
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Many auto parts stores will rent you a torque wrench. You just leave a deposit. Yes, it's true that most people don't carry a torque wrench with them, but when changing a flat, the sensible driver will attempt to tighten all the lugs evenly as possible by hand and then torque them to about 76ft/lbs as soon as possible.
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Thanks again guys.
Got a particular brand you prefer? Digital or traditional settings? I was thinking of picking up a Crafstman from Sears tomorrow. Definitely wanna be sensible.
Got a particular brand you prefer? Digital or traditional settings? I was thinking of picking up a Crafstman from Sears tomorrow. Definitely wanna be sensible.
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Craftsman will suffice. Just remember to return the adjusting knob to its lowest scale setting once you're done. Also, select a wrench that you will use mostly in the middle of its torque range for accuracy. I think I have 6 torque wrenches in my arsenal.
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#8
I use a cheap clicker type I bought from Harbor Freight for things that don't require EXACT torque specs (lugs, suspension components). For engine/ internal stuff I use the craftsmen gauge type, to see the torque build up consistantly.
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Boit- just found a post where Xviper thinks that 90ft/lbs is the right pressure. http://forums.s2ki.com/forums/showthread.p...ning+wheel+lugs
Are you sure it's 76ft/lbs?
He's usually the guru under the hood so I'm a bit
Are you sure it's 76ft/lbs?
He's usually the guru under the hood so I'm a bit
#10
He does not advise to over-torque them to 90ft/lbs, but it works for him as well as many others. 79.6 lbs/ft is what the manual states to torque lugs to. Myself, I torque my lugs to 85 lbs/ft, right in the middle