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At the end of the year my transmission was staring to show signs of age and milage. First the clutch started to slip. Then the last time I drove it, I was having a hard time getting it in gear (like throw-out bearing was failing). Fine though, it got cold and ugly out so she has been sitting in the garage since the national tour event in Moultre, GA.
So I ordered the Sachs clutch kit from Rock Auto, and like others, very happy with the parts that showed up. While I wanted to do the job myself (I have the time), I didn't want to buy more tools (trans jack, 3' extensions, etc) and the last clutch I attempted didn't go well (long story, '74 Land Rover {should have been simple}). So my Friend Chad Mcleod is one of the few shops I trust, he's honest to a flaw. I'm going to have him swap the parts, replace the nylon fitting in the shifter, and remove the steering control module so I can clean and repack it.
Even though the weather is crap, I'm looking forward to getting the S back on the road.
If I may, change your engine mounts, too. Frankly, I'd swap all mounts while you're at it as it's relatively cheap to do. If you didn't personally change them, I can all but promise they're original and split (they're fluid-filled and the rubber degrades pretty quickly). Do a Blackstone analysis and check for rod bearing health. This is especially true if you have wear on your guide bearing sleeve.
I changed the thermostat too when doing the clutch and motor mounts. Its easy to get to the thermostat when you have the driver side motor mount off. If it has never been changed worth considering. Also did the main seal. While I had it all apart totally made sense. My car is an AP1 so I also replaced the drive shaft bolts with the harder more robust ones from LHT.
Last edited by jsullyboy; Dec 17, 2023 at 03:35 PM.
I changed the thermostat too when doing the clutch and motor mounts. Its easy to get to the thermostat when you have the driver side motor mount off. If it has never been changed worth considering. Also did the main seal. While I had it all apart totally made sense. My car is an AP1 so I also replaced the drive shaft bolts with the harder more robust ones from LHT.
I'm used to doing the t-stat when the water pump gets replaced. Do our engines give good indication that the water pump is failing?
As I continue to tack on more things to do along with the clutch, the price keeps climbing. I'm ordering new oem mounts (engine, trans), and LHT drive shaft bolts. I was considering the spoon t-stat but just not ready to replace it yet. I daily drive my S, and I have always thought it ran a little too hot. I mean engine/water temps are where they should be but, under hood temps get really hot in the FL heat.
if you order OEM engine mounts, get them through Majestic Honda. They tend to kill all other dealerships prices on parts (They were half of what all other local dealerships wanted for mounts when I got mine). They are my go to if I am ordering OEM parts.
But, just inspect them and see if you really need to replace them. Mine went at around 150,000 miles after tons of autox and track use. You can see if they are cracked, it will be very evident. And they are super easy to replace if they go later.
While they have the engine lowered to do the clutch (have to lower the subframe and motor a ways) have them inspect the upper radiator hose and the water outlet/hoses attached to it. That upper hose is a royal biatch to get to normally, it is only slightly easier with the engine tilted forward but you can at least get your hand to it then and see it a little bit
Otherwise just make sure that they follow the shop manual and grease things as they are specified. Some will kinda glaze over that detail and end up with a crappy feeling clutch movement later down the road.
And they will want to pay close attention to where the knock sensor is before pulling the top starter bolt out. It is easy to angle the attachment wrong and break the sensor. That is not a cheap part and is easy to break. It is just forward and at the level of the top of the starter on the block.
if you order OEM engine mounts, get them through Majestic Honda. They tend to kill all other dealerships prices on parts (They were half of what all other local dealerships wanted for mounts when I got mine). They are my go to if I am ordering OEM parts.
But, just inspect them and see if you really need to replace them. Mine went at around 150,000 miles after tons of autox and track use. You can see if they are cracked, it will be very evident. And they are super easy to replace if they go later.
While they have the engine lowered to do the clutch (have to lower the subframe and motor a ways) have them inspect the upper radiator hose and the water outlet/hoses attached to it. That upper hose is a royal biatch to get to normally, it is only slightly easier with the engine tilted forward but you can at least get your hand to it then and see it a little bit
Otherwise just make sure that they follow the shop manual and grease things as they are specified. Some will kinda glaze over that detail and end up with a crappy feeling clutch movement later down the road.
And they will want to pay close attention to where the knock sensor is before pulling the top starter bolt out. It is easy to angle the attachment wrong and break the sensor. That is not a cheap part and is easy to break. It is just forward and at the level of the top of the starter on the block.
Majestic had about the same prices as HPN, still double what the ebay stores are charging. Is there risk that the ebay stores are selling knock off OEM?
I will see if I can hand off some of the tips that you all recommended to Chad. By the way, he quoted me $1800 for the clutch (parts + labor). I am sourcing the parts and he is going to do a few other things that we have discussed. I'll share what the total ends up at when we are all said and done.
I did a little shopping around and this is the best deal I found on mounts. I wrote the eBay store owner and asked if he could package it up for me and this was what I got back.
Clutch replace
