Jump to content

Page 1 of 1
  • You cannot start a new topic
  • You cannot reply to this topic

Relocating IAT sensor Any point?

#1 User is offline   s2konroids 

  • View gallery
  • Group: Member
  • Posts: 20,142
  • Joined: 06-January 06
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:location, location
  • Country: Micronesia
  • Interests:Your lass!

Posted 22 September 2010 - 02:55 PM

Guys, i run a pretty lowly 7psi CTSC+AC+bolts+VAFC2 (mods in my signature). I was thinking of relocating my IAT sensor. BTW the AFR is fine.

Don't shoot me down in flames :D but...

I know that in later models, Honda relocated the IAT sensor into the intake tract. The problem is when i monitor the IAT values if the car has been sitting for a while (5mins) it gets heated up by the intake manifold in some instances it hits mid 60c - this is when its around 15-20c ambient outside too.

When on the move it takes a wee while to drop down (hovers around 50c when pootling around slowly) but i believe the stock ECU retards timing if above 45c in WOT? (which it can in some instances), however the temps do drop down when i put my foot down.

Just wondering if its worth relocating and capping off?, however i dont know if its feasible as Honda would have likely tested and coded in the high temp values into the ECU map??

Just seems a bit of a design fault and not a 100% representation of true air temp.

Thanks.
Posted Image
www.ajituning.co.uk

#2 User is offline   s2konroids 

  • Topic Starter
  • View gallery
  • Group: Member
  • Posts: 20,142
  • Joined: 06-January 06
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:location, location
  • Country: Micronesia
  • Interests:Your lass!

Posted 23 September 2010 - 11:01 AM

bump

#3 User is offline   camuman 

  • View gallery
  • Group: Guest
  • Posts: 7,866
  • Joined: 24-October 02
  • Location:South Florida
  • Country: United States

Posted 23 September 2010 - 11:14 AM

this one to me is a tough answer.

if you move it, then you dont know the true temp of the air going into the combustion chamber. having it on the intake manifold, or the oven as i like to joke, tells you how hot the air is right before it goes into the combustion chamber. yeah the sensor gets hot, but thats because the intake mani is hot, and just like the sensor is being heated up, so is the air, its an interheater so to speak.

so your choice, move it and see lower numbers, or keep it there and see higher numbers, but in both cases, once car is tuned for that location, its gonna work the same. stock ecu i def wouldnt move it.
weekend warrior - 05 S2k: OLD SETUP - SXM intercooled roots blower 10# + other crap - 13.1@110
HYTECH DUAL TWIN LOOP WITH 3" VIBRANT ULTRA QUIET RESONATOR- AEM EMS - 10psi BOOST - 18" BBS LM - TOYO RA1 - TEIN RA - HYTECH "UNICORN" HEADER - AEM METH TUNE @ 10PSI 344whp/245wtq dynojet

NEW SETUP FBM Sidewinder Divided mani - BW S362 Divided Turbo - Twin Tial 44mm Wastegates - Tial 50mm BOV - AEM EMS - HYTECH DUAL TWIN LOOP WITH 3" VIBRANT ULTRA QUIET RESONATOR - 18" BBS LM - TOYO RA1 - TEIN RA - MASE TUNED TUNE @ 14PSI 450whp/295wtq dyno dynamics - 12.3@121

daily destroyer - 09 Jeep SRT8: Bwoody 4" CAI - BT Catch Can - Diablo Toona TOON - MPTCM - TOYO PROXES 275/315 tire setup - 12.8@106

Wifes Daily - 2011 Chevy Cruze - MPG's for days
Wifes Weekend warrior - 2001 Ford F250 Supercab 5.4 gas motor - SLOW ASS f@#k but reliable

#4 User is offline   dsddcd 

  • Group: Gold Member
  • Posts: 3,864
  • Joined: 21-February 08
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:USA
  • Country: United States
  • Interests:Fast Cars & Fine Women

Posted 23 September 2010 - 01:18 PM

Yes, relocating the AIT with FI is a great thing if you can retune correctly, in your case you cannot so this will really F things up if you try it.

If you get an AEM you may want to do it but with a piggy back or KPRO you will be waisting your time. Even the AEM does not have a good algorithm for fuel trims based on the AIT, to do it right you would need a better ECM like a Motec.

#5 User is offline   siadam 

  • Group: Guest
  • Posts: 3,739
  • Joined: 28-May 08
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Around
  • Country: United States
  • Interests:Rollin Hawt Whips.

Posted 23 September 2010 - 02:16 PM

I wouldn't bother with it imo.

#6 User is offline   spectacle 

  • View gallery
  • Group: Member
  • Posts: 4,747
  • Joined: 29-September 04
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Tampa, FL
  • Country: United States

Posted 23 September 2010 - 02:20 PM

Why would you be wasting your time with kpro? People relocate their IAT's all the time with other motors/cars
Posted ImagePosted ImagePosted ImagePosted Image
Posted Image
615whp | 10.8 @ 135
For all your fuel injector & turbo needs, contact The Boost Lab
For tuning (worldwide) contact Alpha @ Induction Performance

#7 User is offline   s2konroids 

  • Topic Starter
  • View gallery
  • Group: Member
  • Posts: 20,142
  • Joined: 06-January 06
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:location, location
  • Country: Micronesia
  • Interests:Your lass!

Posted 23 September 2010 - 04:36 PM

Okay thanks chaps.


#8 User is offline   dsddcd 

  • Group: Gold Member
  • Posts: 3,864
  • Joined: 21-February 08
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:USA
  • Country: United States
  • Interests:Fast Cars & Fine Women

Posted 23 September 2010 - 09:59 PM

Quote

Why would you be wasting your time with kpro? People relocate their IAT's all the time with other motors/cars

KPRO is just not that flexible, you only have a few sensors that can be used b/c there is now way to easily change the calibration. They do have trims that can be tuned but there is serious lack of resolution only (5) cells for low and high load. That is why I am not sold on the KPRO as a whole, there is a lack of user ajustablity however for a simple build it is sure a lot easier.

#9 User is offline   Sportster 

  • View gallery
  • Group: Guest
  • Posts: 1,100
  • Joined: 21-March 08
  • Gender:Male
  • Country: Greece

Posted 24 September 2010 - 12:24 AM

This is called heat soaked, this is why many of us have gone the FMIC route. When using a FMIC, as soon as you start moving the temps drop instantly, the same happens after you hit on it. When you are at WOT it starts dropping but after a point it starts rising and gets around 60. After that it takes more time to drop down to 50 again. This is the main difference with FMIC, since the intercooler is away from the engine, it doesn't gets hot when the engine does, and hence provides the intake manifold always with fresh cool air. The Aftercooler gets heat soaked inside the engine compartment and although the cooling system with the water and the fins inside the AC are running cool water it takes time to actually cool the air since everything in there is hot.

Leave the IAT sensor where it is, relocating it will not cool the air, will just show you a lower reading. Retarding timing above 45 might actually be a good thing since you are not running AEM.

#10 User is offline   Boostaholic 

  • Group: Guest
  • Posts: 272
  • Joined: 04-February 07
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Lexington, Ky
  • Country: United States
  • Interests:High Horsepower Forced Induction Car's, Boats & PWC's

Posted 06 November 2010 - 09:20 PM

While I agree that just relocating the OEM IAT sensor isn't going to do you any good. But changing to a "better" sensor if you have a standalone ECU that you can calibrate for one could definitely be advantageous!

Here's my experience and opinion on this for what its worth. The IAT sensor's tip is a metal probe, which we know from basic thermal dynamics, will induce a small delay into the time it takes the sensor to actually report a change in intake air temp.

Based on the following, I think a better IAT sensor could be used. The high performance SeaDoo's I work with come in a few different performance models with only very slight changes. There is a supercharged model, and a Supercharged Intercooled model. The Supercharged model has an IAT sensor that is the same design that is used in our cars. It has a metal probe tip. However the Supercharged Intercooled model has a different upgraded sensor. I would post pics, but I don't have the proper forum access to do so for some reason... Long story short, the higher end sensor does not have a metal probe, it is a more open design,looks like a diode with a small plastic cage around it to protect the sensor element. I was curious of the differences and why the use of the different IAT sensor in the higher HP rated motor configuration and did some testing of my own on the two sensors. Turns out the difference is the sensor without the metal probe responds to changes in temperature MUCH quicker than the sensor that has the metal probe.

So moving the sensor just changes how you perceive the AIT, a sensor that has a quicker response time to temp changes WOULD be a very worthwhile upgrade!

I'll try and do some research on part numbers, and get some pics of the two sensors for comparison, etc... But being that I already have a temperature calibration table for the Seadoo sensors, I may drill/tap my intake for one of the more responsive SeaDoo sensors..

This post has been edited by Boostaholic: 07 November 2010 - 02:13 PM

2003 Black/Black S2000 ~400hp@14psi. - Full V-band Pfab ELT Mani, Tial GT3076R, Tial 44mm WG & 50mm BOV
- Alaniz built Darton Sleeved AP1 block w/ 89mm bore Arias pistons & Crower rods = 2080cc spinning 10.5k RPM's
- Alaniz race ported head w/ Oversize Ferrea valves, bronze guides, Crower cams, Supertech Ti retainers & Valve Springs
- AEM EMS, custom 4" down pipe to HKS Hi-Power Exhaust - Kinesis 3peice forged 18" wheels, & LOTS of Carbon Fiber!
2001 Yamaha GPR Waverunner w/ turbocharged 2005 SeaDoo 4tec 1.5l 3cyl. motor ~350hp@17psi - 92.6mph@8760rpm's

#11 User is offline   s2konroids 

  • Topic Starter
  • View gallery
  • Group: Member
  • Posts: 20,142
  • Joined: 06-January 06
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:location, location
  • Country: Micronesia
  • Interests:Your lass!

Posted 07 November 2010 - 05:49 AM

I have a greddy EMU, but i still probably wont relocate it since i dont have as much full control as a standalone.


#12 User is offline   neeman77 

  • Group: Member
  • Posts: 1,725
  • Joined: 22-November 06
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Canada
  • Country: Canada

Posted 07 November 2010 - 12:01 PM

Boostaholic that actually sounds like a pretty interesting idea.
Neema

923 hp 735 ft/lbs

9.75@143.41 MPH

--My Build Thread--

--In-Car Video--

Ads by Google   S2KI

Share this topic:


Page 1 of 1
  • You cannot start a new topic
  • You cannot reply to this topic

1 User(s) are reading this topic
0 members, 1 guests, 0 anonymous users