super_mut

Hey Guys,

I'm having awful rubbing issues on the rear of my car. I'm currently lowered on stock suspension with some springs. There is absolutely 0 finger gap between the tire and the rear quarter. I currently have some KW V3's on order and I figured I'd be fine until they came in. Boy, I was wrong. I have no idea what the rear camber settings are as I just bought the car. The question is...do I

1. Roll the rear quarters?
2. Shove an eff load of rear camber to the rears?
3. Relocate the rear tabs?

Specs:
225/40/R18 FRONT
255/40/R18 REAR


By super_mut555 at 2011-11-23


By super_mut555 at 2011-11-23


By super_mut555 at 2011-11-23


By super_mut555 at 2011-11-23


By super_mut555 at 2011-11-23

camuman

roll rear fenders and relocate tab. then see where you are at. those two things have to be done imo to every lowered s2k.

once you get the kw v3's installed, get alighment done asap.

super_mut

Hmm, I can't get away with that at all...the tab relocation and fender roll.

Is there anyone here in Southern California, Los Angeles that offers this service?

ZDan

Get tires that are the right size. Should be on 255/35-18 rears, not 255/40-18, which are an inch taller than stock.

super_mut

I didn't want to go 35 series. One pothole and the rim are done. I'm adjusting the camber as we speak...will report back.

Reapur

If you go with a larger tire it throws off the speedometer readings, which is stupid. Go with the correct tire size, avoid potholes regardless of what size sidewall you use. A 40 series sidewall won't save you from bending a rim. You should have and can safely get away with -2.5 deg camber in the rear and should stop the rubbing issue. make sure your toe settings are minimal in the rear 1/8th - 1/16th total at the very most. Remember camber doesn't kill rubber toe does.

Beware of rolling fenders, it can crack the paint if there isn't enough stretch / elasticity in it and then cost you hundreds in repainting. fender rolling and the whole stance movement on the s2000 is retarded imo. Stretch and poke is a VW thing and looks pretty bad. The s2000 is a track car not a ghetto stance box, leave the car functional as it was intended. At the end of the day its your car and do whatever you want.

camuman

I laugh every time u guys say this camber doesn't kill tires stuff. It does just at an acceptable level to u all. I will continue to tote my facts. I run stock alignment us specs on r comps on the street. I'm at 15k miles on them. Fronts are wearing even inside to out and rears are within 1/32nd inside to out. Rears still have half thread left. Front have like 60-70%.

-2.5 rear camber will not wear even remotely close to even. How can u possibly tell people camber doesn't kill tires when running excessive camber on the street will cause the insides to wear considerably faster on the inside compared to the outside.

If u don't track the car run stock camber. Cambering wheels to make them fit is beyond retarded.

super_mut

I agree with both of your statements. This was definitely a mistake running a 40 series in a rear, when I should have ran a 35 series. I'll have to ride it out for now until the KW's come in.

Thanks again guys I'll know for next time, this is coming from a guy who comes from the FWD community. Learned something new even though it was a painful one.

ZDan

255/35-18 sidewall height is the same as 225/40-18 sidewall height, both are roughly stock diameter. 255/40-18 sidewall is *significantly* taller.
If you don't want super low profile tires, go with 17" wheels/tires.

ZDan

"Stock alilgnment, US specs" doesn't tell us what your alignment is. The spec is a broad RANGE of camber/caster/toe settings. In any case, it doesn't mean that you can't get close to even wear with a good NON-stock alignment. In fact, you'll improve rear tire life tremendously running less than "stock" rear toe-in spec.

I'm running 2.2deg rear camber and I'm at 10k miles on my rear 225/50-16 Hankook RS-3s. 5/32 tread depth remaining, or 3/32 to the wear indicators, and wear is close to even (within 1/32). Usually there's <2/32 difference inside to outside at end of tire lift for me. IMO, not a big deal, amounts to ~12% shorter tire life.

If you're at 15k on "R Comps", they've either turned to stone or you aren't really USING them.

The killer of rear tires is excessive toe, not so much camber. High end of US AP1 rear toe spec is excessive, and UK spec is DANGEROUSLY so (0.67 - 1.33 degrees!).
Run minimal rear toe (~0.2deg total), and "camber wear" will not be that big a deal at ~2deg or even more camber.

2-2.5degs camber will cause the insides to wear a smidge faster than outer, costing on the order of 10-15% in tire life. But excessive toe (say, 0.4* or more) will KILL tire life. Max US spec (0.64deg) will cost you ~50% or more tire life vs. more reasonable minimal toe settings.

Camber doesn't kill tires, TOE does. I think people see slightly uneven wear and overreact to it. Generally not that big a deal, and IMO generally worth it to have greater cornering grip.