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HELP! 255/40/R18 Rubbing Issues

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Old 11-22-2011, 01:06 AM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by camuman
Originally Posted by Reapur' timestamp='1321837017' post='21172634
[quote name='super_mut' timestamp='1321833844' post='21172552']
I didn't want to go 35 series. One pothole and the rim are done. I'm adjusting the camber as we speak...will report back.

If you go with a larger tire it throws off the speedometer readings, which is stupid. Go with the correct tire size, avoid potholes regardless of what size sidewall you use. A 40 series sidewall won't save you from bending a rim. You should have and can safely get away with -2.5 deg camber in the rear and should stop the rubbing issue. make sure your toe settings are minimal in the rear 1/8th - 1/16th total at the very most. Remember camber doesn't kill rubber toe does.

Beware of rolling fenders, it can crack the paint if there isn't enough stretch / elasticity in it and then cost you hundreds in repainting. fender rolling and the whole stance movement on the s2000 is retarded imo. Stretch and poke is a VW thing and looks pretty bad. The s2000 is a track car not a ghetto stance box, leave the car functional as it was intended. At the end of the day its your car and do whatever you want.

I laugh every time u guys say this camber doesn't kill tires stuff. It does just at an acceptable level to u all. I will continue to tote my facts. I run stock alignment us specs on r comps on the street. I'm at 15k miles on them. Fronts are wearing even inside to out and rears are within 1/32nd inside to out. Rears still have half thread left. Front have like 60-70%.

-2.5 rear camber will not wear even remotely close to even. How can u possibly tell people camber doesn't kill tires when running excessive camber on the street will cause the insides to wear considerably faster on the inside compared to the outside.

If u don't track the car run stock camber. Cambering wheels to make them fit is beyond retarded.
[/quote]

R. Comps? Check.
stock Alignment? Check.
Not tracking car? Check.

something doesn't add up.
Old 11-22-2011, 04:31 AM
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Originally Posted by aCab
Originally Posted by camuman' timestamp='1321837759' post='21172659
[quote name='Reapur' timestamp='1321837017' post='21172634']
[quote name='super_mut' timestamp='1321833844' post='21172552']
I didn't want to go 35 series. One pothole and the rim are done. I'm adjusting the camber as we speak...will report back.

If you go with a larger tire it throws off the speedometer readings, which is stupid. Go with the correct tire size, avoid potholes regardless of what size sidewall you use. A 40 series sidewall won't save you from bending a rim. You should have and can safely get away with -2.5 deg camber in the rear and should stop the rubbing issue. make sure your toe settings are minimal in the rear 1/8th - 1/16th total at the very most. Remember camber doesn't kill rubber toe does.

Beware of rolling fenders, it can crack the paint if there isn't enough stretch / elasticity in it and then cost you hundreds in repainting. fender rolling and the whole stance movement on the s2000 is retarded imo. Stretch and poke is a VW thing and looks pretty bad. The s2000 is a track car not a ghetto stance box, leave the car functional as it was intended. At the end of the day its your car and do whatever you want.

I laugh every time u guys say this camber doesn't kill tires stuff. It does just at an acceptable level to u all. I will continue to tote my facts. I run stock alignment us specs on r comps on the street. I'm at 15k miles on them. Fronts are wearing even inside to out and rears are within 1/32nd inside to out. Rears still have half thread left. Front have like 60-70%.

-2.5 rear camber will not wear even remotely close to even. How can u possibly tell people camber doesn't kill tires when running excessive camber on the street will cause the insides to wear considerably faster on the inside compared to the outside.

If u don't track the car run stock camber. Cambering wheels to make them fit is beyond retarded.
[/quote]

R. Comps? Check.
stock Alignment? Check.
Not tracking car? Check.

something doesn't add up.
[/quote]


450 WHP? CHECK!

Likes to have grip and put power to the ground? RESOUNDING CHECK!

Likes to have his expensive tires last? CHECK!

Likes to have his tires wear even? CHECK!
Old 11-22-2011, 06:05 AM
  #13  

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Ok, before this thread gets locked I have one last question. Since I decided to get the wrong tires in the first place *doh* I'm going to order the rears to fix this issue.

So, my question is. I'm going to keep the 225/40/R18's in the front, but I would like them to be NOT SO TALL in the rear. I have two choices (I'm thinking these are my two choices).

245/40/R18 or should this be 245/35/R18?
255/35/R18
Old 11-22-2011, 06:16 AM
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255/35/18s are actually going to be slightly wider than 255/40/18s, and I can't find a 245/35/18 tire :/

What wheels do you have? I hate to say it (literally, I really hate suggesting it at all), but roll the rears and go with a 255/35 series on the rear.
Old 11-22-2011, 06:22 AM
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GEEZES!!!!! This is fustrating.

I have some knockoff meisters, they are either rotas or jlb or jbl something. They had originally come with the car and these were just supposed to be "temporary" as I had just purchased the S. Sizes are 18x8.5 and 18x9.

When rolling the fenders can I still obtain that OEM look?
Old 11-22-2011, 06:24 AM
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Another thought. I'm picking up some KW V3's this week, should I just raise the ride height back up?
Old 11-22-2011, 07:32 AM
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"When rolling the fenders can I still obtain that OEM look?"

If done professionally, yes.

I would raise the car up a little as well.
Old 11-22-2011, 07:47 AM
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I think the best temporary fix is to raise the car up. Next is to get the rear quarters rolled a bit to allow me to fit 255's...I wanted to fit 255's anyways. the next setup is going to be 17x9 non-staggered 255's all around.
Old 11-22-2011, 08:48 AM
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You might not have to roll the fenders with 255/35-18 rears. Tire height is as important, possibly more so, vs. width regarding rubbing. Going from 255/40 to 255/35 moves the tread 1/2" radially inward, away from the fender lip, that's a HUGE amount.

Also, 255/35s aren't necessarily wider. Quick perusal of different tires at TireRack website shows that *some* 255/40s have wider overall width (section) than same make/model 255/35s, while some 255/35s have wider tread width.

Going to 255/35-18 will be a LOT less likely to rub, even if the "tread width" is a tenth or two wider. I would try that before modding fenders. What are your wheels' offsets?
Old 11-22-2011, 09:21 AM
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Dan,

I am not 100% sure what the offset of the wheels are, but looking up the Rota D2 Wheels it looks like the specs are as follows.

Fronts: 18x8 +48MM
Rears: 18x9 +30MM or +50MM (I think its the +30MM)

So after much deliberation. It looks like I will keep the fronts 225/40/R18 and order some rear tires 255/35/R18. After all this discussion this looks like my best bet.


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