Sputtering, stalling, lean conditions
I am thinking there are many more of these issues than the 4 or 5 posted here - just not being reported.
I am going to be pressing for my dealership to warranty the ECU as it effects emissions and should fall under that warranty. The more info we can gather here the more luck we may have.
I am almost thinking that the ECU processor has slowed down and it is not making corrections to things fast enough.
I am going to be pressing for my dealership to warranty the ECU as it effects emissions and should fall under that warranty. The more info we can gather here the more luck we may have.
I am almost thinking that the ECU processor has slowed down and it is not making corrections to things fast enough.
OK - so installed a known good ECM/ECU and the problem is still there. Also replaced the primary O2 sensor with a new OEM replacement just in case - problem is still there.
So as of now I can eliminate:
Not the MAP (installed new)
Not the O2 (installed new)
Not the coils (replaced with coils from a normal running 05)
Not the sparkplugs (tried 3 different sets - including new OEM)
Not the injectors (replaced all 4 injectors with injectors from a normal running 05)
Not the ECM/ECU (installed a known good one from an 01)
This is driving me crazy. I removed the SC and returned the car back to NA stock just to completely ensure it was not my setup or tune.
All OBD readings check out with the exception of the fuel trims are showing richer than the Helm's manual and the Honda diagnostic tool show it should be.
There has to be someone that has solved this problem. There has to be some other sensor, etc.. causing the issue.
So as of now I can eliminate:
Not the MAP (installed new)
Not the O2 (installed new)
Not the coils (replaced with coils from a normal running 05)
Not the sparkplugs (tried 3 different sets - including new OEM)
Not the injectors (replaced all 4 injectors with injectors from a normal running 05)
Not the ECM/ECU (installed a known good one from an 01)
This is driving me crazy. I removed the SC and returned the car back to NA stock just to completely ensure it was not my setup or tune.
All OBD readings check out with the exception of the fuel trims are showing richer than the Helm's manual and the Honda diagnostic tool show it should be.
There has to be someone that has solved this problem. There has to be some other sensor, etc.. causing the issue.
Originally Posted by WLAURENT,Apr 12 2007, 06:36 PM
Pulled the plugs and all looks good - if anything it appears to be running slightly richer than usual.
S|2ocK - how many miles are on your car? I just rolled over 50K
S|2ocK - how many miles are on your car? I just rolled over 50K
Originally Posted by WLAURENT,Apr 16 2007, 11:30 AM
I disconnected the primary (one in the header) - the secondary (in the catconv is purely emmisions related and should not effect performance - just shows that the cat is working).
Another thing I noticed is that some other car functions have changed. When I used to hit the cruise button it would pretty much lockin right at the traveling speed - now it jumps 1-2 MPH and locks there. When I hit resume it used to speed right up to the cruise set-point (for example it would take a couple seconds to get from 70 to 80), now it slowly creeps up to the set-point over a 6-10 seconds to get from 70 to 80 once you hit the resume button (and sometimes it stops 1-2 MPH short).
I measured the voltages going to the PCM and it is dead nuts with what is showing on the battery (both with and without the engine running: 12.99 and 14.2).
I also measured the idle droop/drop voltage and just when it is about to stall the voltage is still around 13.5 VDC - negating the "voltage is dropping to low" concept.
Another thing I noticed is that some other car functions have changed. When I used to hit the cruise button it would pretty much lockin right at the traveling speed - now it jumps 1-2 MPH and locks there. When I hit resume it used to speed right up to the cruise set-point (for example it would take a couple seconds to get from 70 to 80), now it slowly creeps up to the set-point over a 6-10 seconds to get from 70 to 80 once you hit the resume button (and sometimes it stops 1-2 MPH short).
I measured the voltages going to the PCM and it is dead nuts with what is showing on the battery (both with and without the engine running: 12.99 and 14.2).
I also measured the idle droop/drop voltage and just when it is about to stall the voltage is still around 13.5 VDC - negating the "voltage is dropping to low" concept.
example, i'll be cruising at 65mph, activate cruise control, and right when i press the set cruise button the car jumps to 67mph and holds that speed.
I have had a rough idle since i've had it back from the shop too. It sounds pretty much like the same problem, but my engine doesn't die as often, sometimes though when i just engage the clutch. I called that shop back after experiencing these issues and they said bring it back it could be this that or the other thing, but they told me i would have to pay to get it checked out further. That shop did some other shady stuff so i've been trying to trouble shoot the problem ever since.
here's what i've done so far, but the problem remains.
* replaced map sensor
* Compared my TPS voltage with another s2k (they're the same)
* tried plenty of fuel injector cleaners additives
* I have run an 8 gauge grounding cable from chassis to neg. battery connection
thinking they may had not reconnected a ground when the engine was pulled.
I tried to connect a second 8 gauge wire to the bolt that secures the alternator, but that resulted in the engine making knocking sounds, so i disconnected it.
My next step was to have the injectors professionallly cleaned, but it doesn't sound that that may be the cause.
does anyone have a helms manual? i think there's an idle troubleshooting guide in there.
what if it was something as simple as a dirty/clogged throttle body gasket, giving the map sensor the wrong readings?
I'm going to try this next, it's cheap and has potential.
here's where i think air may be getting clogged (this is a BDL throttle body, but our stock TB has the same design for the map sensor air flow)
I'm going to try this next, it's cheap and has potential.
here's where i think air may be getting clogged (this is a BDL throttle body, but our stock TB has the same design for the map sensor air flow)
I have been through the Helm's guide top to bottom. Monitored my timing, TPS, temps, MAP, etc.. for many hours today and still no solution.
I reseated all connectors and used di-electric silicaon grease on all of them. The only thing I have not done so far is replace my IAC and harness. IAC is around $100 and an easy install, but the harness looks to be a total PITA.
Does not matter if the car is bone stock or SC'd - same problems exist, although they seem to be more prevelant/amplified with the SC hooked up and running. In NA form you can almost deal with it, but with the SC it really is problematic.
A local tuner thinks that an AEM-EMS would be able to adapt to the SC changes better than the OEM ECM/ECU. The problem is that the car ran awsome for about 2 months before this started.
I reseated all connectors and used di-electric silicaon grease on all of them. The only thing I have not done so far is replace my IAC and harness. IAC is around $100 and an easy install, but the harness looks to be a total PITA.
Does not matter if the car is bone stock or SC'd - same problems exist, although they seem to be more prevelant/amplified with the SC hooked up and running. In NA form you can almost deal with it, but with the SC it really is problematic.
A local tuner thinks that an AEM-EMS would be able to adapt to the SC changes better than the OEM ECM/ECU. The problem is that the car ran awsome for about 2 months before this started.
Originally Posted by WLAURENT,Apr 22 2007, 07:13 PM
I already changed the gasket and replaced the MAP - no notable change.
I am certain that it will be something really easy and stupid when this all shakes out.
I am certain that it will be something really easy and stupid when this all shakes out.
What about your secondary air pump? I've heard it has no effect on the idle, but perhaps somehow. Mine is sitting in my garage right now because it burned through the housing therefore producing little to no pressure. I didn't initially get a CEL for this problem, because the pump still functions and spins around it didn't produce a faulty air pump CEL. i finally started getting the p0411 for improper secondary air control flow detected.
I am waiting for a CEL to eventually pop so I know what the problem really is. Will probably be "P00000 - Press trip button to reset/continue" and the problem will be gone (or some silly crap like that).


