My detailing Tips...
03-02-2011, 07:42 AM
#22
Moderator
Thread Starter
^ Thanks. I started working on my compelte write up, got about 3 pages so far. I am planning on finishing my complete write up, and including pictures after I do my detail next weekend 
Stay tuned!
Stay tuned!
04-05-2011, 06:48 AM
#24
Moderator
Thread Starter
1. 3 Bucket Wash
a. 1 Bucket for clean water and soap with grit guard
i. Use Dawn dish detergent to strip paint of old wax, grease, oil, and road grime
ii. Wash 1 panel at a time, rinse in the dirty bucket, and rub the wash mitt/sponge against grit guard to remove dirt. When you go to soap up again, rub the mitt/sponge again on the grit guard to be sure all dirt/grim is removed
b. 1 Bucket for dirty rinse water with grit guard
i. When rinsing wash mitt/sponge, be sure to rub against the grit guard to remove dirt/grim
c. 1 Bucket for wheels/exhaust, fender liner, underbody only (all the dirty areas)
d. I always wash from the highest point, to the lowest point. I save the dirtiest areas (rocker panels, fenders around the wheels) until the end. This way I don’t dirty the water right away.
2. Drying
a. Always use a clean drying towel. I prefer a waffle knit towel, and ALWAYS use a lubricant! Any instant detailer, or spray on wax will do the trick. Spray the wet panel with a lubricant, then wipe dry. Check my products listing, but I swear by the Griot’s waffle knit drying towel and spray on wax. I also have a separate waffle knit towel for the wheels and door jams. Never use your good towel on dirty areas.
b. I dry from the top down, and save the lower areas of the car until the very end. This way if I missed cleaning some dirt off the car, I don’t dirty my towel until the end.
c. Wash your drying towels frequently to be sure you aren’t drying your car with a dirty towel that will scratch the paint.
3. Clay Bar
a. Break clay bar into smaller chunks. This helps create a smaller and more workable piece and if you drop the clay bar, throw it out. If it’s a small piece, it’s not as bad compared to throwing away an entire 100gram piece!
b. Go in back and forth motion; make sure you keep the area lubricated. As the area dries out, the clay bar will stick to the paint, and not glide smoothly.
c. Entire process is all done by feel! Go back and forth; you should be able to feel dirt and grime which create slight hang-ups as you move the clay back and forth. Continue to work the area until it feels smooth. Wipe area down with towel and instant detailer or speed shine, run hand over the area to feel for any leftover grime, also visually inspect area.
d. Work small sections at a time, starting from the top, then working down
e. After each section, mix the clay in your hand to get a clean piece of clay exposed for the next panel, do this frequently to maximize the clays ability to pick up dirt.
f. I go hardtop, hood, trunk, tops of fenders, then move on to bumpers and sides of the car. I also clay bar the wheels, it is the best way to get caked on brake dust, and grease off.
4. Quick Wash
a. After claying the car, you must wash the car again. This is to get rid of any contaminants and grim left behind from the clay bar.
b. Wash top down
c. I will dry the car without lubrication because the car is now completely bare of any wax or protection. Since we are starting with a blank canvas, I do not want to introduce any chemicals onto the paint. I am very careful with drying and I will blot the water off, more than wiping dry. Again trying not to introduce any more scratches. Compressed air or even a vacuum that can be used as a blower is great to use for drying during this step.
5. Swirl Removal
a. Depending on your paints condition and the severity of the swirls there are several options.
i. Severe scratches and swirls – use rubbing compound and try to fix some scratches. Also look into using a lower grit (higher cut) swirl remover to remove deep swirls and scratches.
ii. Most cases, I will do one or two coats of the Meguair’s swirl remover listed in my products list.
iii. Get a flashlight, or drop lights and shine on the panel you are working. This will really help you see the scratches. You can always tape off a section of the car and try different pads and compounds to find the right combination (If you have a porter cable).
iv. I use a $10 electric polisher from Harbor Freight. Have had good results with this! ***Used a porter cable, and yes, its worth the price tag! Will have to purchase one in the near future.***
v. I use back and forth (front to back) motions on horizontal panels, and up and down motions on vertical panels. I follow these motions all the way through the detailing process, this will help with the reflect ability of the polish in later stages.
vi. I do the entire car, let it dry, than buff the swirl remover. Then I go around panel by panel and inspect up close with a bright light, looking for remaining swirls.
1. If there are still swirls all over the car, then do another coat, if some panels are worse than others, then only go back over the panels that need it.
2. This is a judgment call, and comes down to how much time you want to spend. It also depends on how bad the scratches/swirls are.
3. Later in the process we will utilize products that have filling capabilities and will “fill” in the rest of the scratches/swirls. The swirl remover coats don’t have to remove every scratch/swirl because we will fill them in and use more products to help buff them out later.
4. Knowing when to stop and move on comes from experience and knowing the products you are using
6. Zaino Z-AIO
a. Directly from their site:
i. With an emulsifying cleaner and very mild abrasive, Z-AIO gently cleans and protects while effectively enhancing light refraction and reflectivity for remarkable results. The advanced polymeric substructures within Z-AIO produces optically perfect layers to all paint types, yet also provides excellent adhesion and detergent resistance, resulting in a strong and glossy layer of polymer based synthetic protection.
ii. Z-AIO is an excellent solution for daily driven vehicles. Exposure to environmental elements as well as surface contaminants affects the look and life of your paint. Contaminants like tree sap, tar, bird droppings, bug remains, road grime, and many other pollutants can be easily removed with Z-AIO. Z-AIO includes our most advanced sunscreen and UV protection.
iii. Z-AIO can either be used by itself, or as an excellent foundation & bonding agent for the full line of advanced Zaino Show Car Polish Products.
b. Shake well before using.
c. Apply Z-AIO to our #314 cotton applicator pad. Work Z-AIO into the surface, one section at a time, using firm motions, completing entire vehicle. Allow to dry.
i. I use back and forth (front to back) motions on horizontal panels, and up and down motions on vertical panels.
d. Wipe residue, buffing to a super gloss with a high quality 100% soft cotton cloth.
e. After buffing off the Z-AIO, I use the Zaino Z-8 and a good micro fiber towel. I wipe the entire car down. This helps remove any leftover residue, and the Z-8 also acts like a sealant. The Z-8 is my favorite product in the garage.
7. Zaino Z-5 PRO Show Car Polish for Swirl Marks and Fine Scratches
a. Directly from their site:
i. Z-5 PRO is the perfect choice for detailing enthusiasts, amateurs, and professionals alike. Thanks to its advanced, non-abrasive, micro-filler polymer technology, Z-5 PRO fills and hides minor surface imperfections even better than before - owners of dark cars (black, blue, green, red) will take delight in knowing that with just a few simple applications, swirl marks, spider webbing, and other surface headaches will become nothing more than a distant memory.
ii. Z-5 PRO also contains Zaino's proprietary, state-of-the-art Ultra-Guard UV-40 sunscreen protection to ensure that your vehicle's finish stays looking as brilliant and vibrant as the day it left the showroom.
b. Evaluate the surface of your vehicle. If swirl marks and other defects are moderate or severe, take time to prepare your surface with an appropriate swirl mark remover.
i. I use back and forth (front to back) motions on horizontal panels, and up and down motions on vertical panels.
ii. Allow to dry to a slight haze, test dryness with your finger. If the polish wipes clean off with no smudging, then it is dry and ready to be buffed off.
iii. A minimum of two coats, but up to as many as necessary or you want. I have heard of people doing 10-12 coats. I use a swirl remover earlier on in the process so that I don’t have to use too many coats. I personally have found three coats does the job.
c. After buffing off each coat of the Z-5, I use the Zaino Z-8 and a good micro fiber towel. I wipe the entire car down. This helps remove any leftover residue, and the Z-8 also acts like a sealant.
d. Layer Z-5™ PRO Show Car Polish as necessary to hide minor swirl marks, defects or spider webbing.
8. Zaino Z-2 PRO Show Car Polish for Clear Coated Finishes
a. Directly from their site:
a. 1 Bucket for clean water and soap with grit guard
i. Use Dawn dish detergent to strip paint of old wax, grease, oil, and road grime
ii. Wash 1 panel at a time, rinse in the dirty bucket, and rub the wash mitt/sponge against grit guard to remove dirt. When you go to soap up again, rub the mitt/sponge again on the grit guard to be sure all dirt/grim is removed
b. 1 Bucket for dirty rinse water with grit guard
i. When rinsing wash mitt/sponge, be sure to rub against the grit guard to remove dirt/grim
c. 1 Bucket for wheels/exhaust, fender liner, underbody only (all the dirty areas)
d. I always wash from the highest point, to the lowest point. I save the dirtiest areas (rocker panels, fenders around the wheels) until the end. This way I don’t dirty the water right away.
2. Drying
a. Always use a clean drying towel. I prefer a waffle knit towel, and ALWAYS use a lubricant! Any instant detailer, or spray on wax will do the trick. Spray the wet panel with a lubricant, then wipe dry. Check my products listing, but I swear by the Griot’s waffle knit drying towel and spray on wax. I also have a separate waffle knit towel for the wheels and door jams. Never use your good towel on dirty areas.
b. I dry from the top down, and save the lower areas of the car until the very end. This way if I missed cleaning some dirt off the car, I don’t dirty my towel until the end.
c. Wash your drying towels frequently to be sure you aren’t drying your car with a dirty towel that will scratch the paint.
3. Clay Bar
a. Break clay bar into smaller chunks. This helps create a smaller and more workable piece and if you drop the clay bar, throw it out. If it’s a small piece, it’s not as bad compared to throwing away an entire 100gram piece!
b. Go in back and forth motion; make sure you keep the area lubricated. As the area dries out, the clay bar will stick to the paint, and not glide smoothly.
c. Entire process is all done by feel! Go back and forth; you should be able to feel dirt and grime which create slight hang-ups as you move the clay back and forth. Continue to work the area until it feels smooth. Wipe area down with towel and instant detailer or speed shine, run hand over the area to feel for any leftover grime, also visually inspect area.
d. Work small sections at a time, starting from the top, then working down
e. After each section, mix the clay in your hand to get a clean piece of clay exposed for the next panel, do this frequently to maximize the clays ability to pick up dirt.
f. I go hardtop, hood, trunk, tops of fenders, then move on to bumpers and sides of the car. I also clay bar the wheels, it is the best way to get caked on brake dust, and grease off.
4. Quick Wash
a. After claying the car, you must wash the car again. This is to get rid of any contaminants and grim left behind from the clay bar.
b. Wash top down
c. I will dry the car without lubrication because the car is now completely bare of any wax or protection. Since we are starting with a blank canvas, I do not want to introduce any chemicals onto the paint. I am very careful with drying and I will blot the water off, more than wiping dry. Again trying not to introduce any more scratches. Compressed air or even a vacuum that can be used as a blower is great to use for drying during this step.
5. Swirl Removal
a. Depending on your paints condition and the severity of the swirls there are several options.
i. Severe scratches and swirls – use rubbing compound and try to fix some scratches. Also look into using a lower grit (higher cut) swirl remover to remove deep swirls and scratches.
ii. Most cases, I will do one or two coats of the Meguair’s swirl remover listed in my products list.
iii. Get a flashlight, or drop lights and shine on the panel you are working. This will really help you see the scratches. You can always tape off a section of the car and try different pads and compounds to find the right combination (If you have a porter cable).
iv. I use a $10 electric polisher from Harbor Freight. Have had good results with this! ***Used a porter cable, and yes, its worth the price tag! Will have to purchase one in the near future.***
v. I use back and forth (front to back) motions on horizontal panels, and up and down motions on vertical panels. I follow these motions all the way through the detailing process, this will help with the reflect ability of the polish in later stages.
vi. I do the entire car, let it dry, than buff the swirl remover. Then I go around panel by panel and inspect up close with a bright light, looking for remaining swirls.
1. If there are still swirls all over the car, then do another coat, if some panels are worse than others, then only go back over the panels that need it.
2. This is a judgment call, and comes down to how much time you want to spend. It also depends on how bad the scratches/swirls are.
3. Later in the process we will utilize products that have filling capabilities and will “fill” in the rest of the scratches/swirls. The swirl remover coats don’t have to remove every scratch/swirl because we will fill them in and use more products to help buff them out later.
4. Knowing when to stop and move on comes from experience and knowing the products you are using
6. Zaino Z-AIO
a. Directly from their site:
i. With an emulsifying cleaner and very mild abrasive, Z-AIO gently cleans and protects while effectively enhancing light refraction and reflectivity for remarkable results. The advanced polymeric substructures within Z-AIO produces optically perfect layers to all paint types, yet also provides excellent adhesion and detergent resistance, resulting in a strong and glossy layer of polymer based synthetic protection.
ii. Z-AIO is an excellent solution for daily driven vehicles. Exposure to environmental elements as well as surface contaminants affects the look and life of your paint. Contaminants like tree sap, tar, bird droppings, bug remains, road grime, and many other pollutants can be easily removed with Z-AIO. Z-AIO includes our most advanced sunscreen and UV protection.
iii. Z-AIO can either be used by itself, or as an excellent foundation & bonding agent for the full line of advanced Zaino Show Car Polish Products.
b. Shake well before using.
c. Apply Z-AIO to our #314 cotton applicator pad. Work Z-AIO into the surface, one section at a time, using firm motions, completing entire vehicle. Allow to dry.
i. I use back and forth (front to back) motions on horizontal panels, and up and down motions on vertical panels.
d. Wipe residue, buffing to a super gloss with a high quality 100% soft cotton cloth.
e. After buffing off the Z-AIO, I use the Zaino Z-8 and a good micro fiber towel. I wipe the entire car down. This helps remove any leftover residue, and the Z-8 also acts like a sealant. The Z-8 is my favorite product in the garage.
7. Zaino Z-5 PRO Show Car Polish for Swirl Marks and Fine Scratches
a. Directly from their site:
i. Z-5 PRO is the perfect choice for detailing enthusiasts, amateurs, and professionals alike. Thanks to its advanced, non-abrasive, micro-filler polymer technology, Z-5 PRO fills and hides minor surface imperfections even better than before - owners of dark cars (black, blue, green, red) will take delight in knowing that with just a few simple applications, swirl marks, spider webbing, and other surface headaches will become nothing more than a distant memory.
ii. Z-5 PRO also contains Zaino's proprietary, state-of-the-art Ultra-Guard UV-40 sunscreen protection to ensure that your vehicle's finish stays looking as brilliant and vibrant as the day it left the showroom.
b. Evaluate the surface of your vehicle. If swirl marks and other defects are moderate or severe, take time to prepare your surface with an appropriate swirl mark remover.
i. I use back and forth (front to back) motions on horizontal panels, and up and down motions on vertical panels.
ii. Allow to dry to a slight haze, test dryness with your finger. If the polish wipes clean off with no smudging, then it is dry and ready to be buffed off.
iii. A minimum of two coats, but up to as many as necessary or you want. I have heard of people doing 10-12 coats. I use a swirl remover earlier on in the process so that I don’t have to use too many coats. I personally have found three coats does the job.
c. After buffing off each coat of the Z-5, I use the Zaino Z-8 and a good micro fiber towel. I wipe the entire car down. This helps remove any leftover residue, and the Z-8 also acts like a sealant.
d. Layer Z-5™ PRO Show Car Polish as necessary to hide minor swirl marks, defects or spider webbing.
8. Zaino Z-2 PRO Show Car Polish for Clear Coated Finishes
a. Directly from their site:
06-06-2011, 11:04 AM
#27
Moderator
Thread Starter
For some jobs, yes. If you are looking for a full blown detail, contact Feezy. Thanks
06-07-2011, 06:30 AM
#28
Ok quick question but interesting question.. are there any cleaners for wheels where I can just spray them on, let it sit for a while and then rinse them off? I sprayed plati-dip on my rims and dont really want to sit and rub my rims to clean them. Most of the dirt is from brakes and dirt from driving in puddles. Any advice is greatly appreciated! Ill post before and after pics if it works well too! 
06-07-2011, 07:56 AM
#29
Moderator
Thread Starter
From reading other reviews, and using it myself, and gifting some to my father, this stuff is the best out there. Sonax full effect wheel cleaner. http://detailersdomain.com/carcarepr...elCleaner.html
Check out the link and read the full description. To summarize though, you spray it on the wheels and let it sit. The product changes color as it works, and that is how you can tell when it is time to rinse it off! Hope that helps
Check out the link and read the full description. To summarize though, you spray it on the wheels and let it sit. The product changes color as it works, and that is how you can tell when it is time to rinse it off! Hope that helps
10-07-2011, 03:34 PM
#30
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Join Date: Sep 2008
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Great info man. I need to get my car detailed soon.
What about some info on adding a clear bra over a car's paint/metal that has old paint and has a few rock chips here and there?
What about some info on adding a clear bra over a car's paint/metal that has old paint and has a few rock chips here and there?