rus21s

Hi There,

Has anyone in Australia purchased the inline pro stroker kit? I know you get over 250hp n.a power.
Cant make up my mind if its the right way to go wanting that extra power as im thinking for the
same cost might purchase Kraftwerks s/c.
Any info only guys from Australia would be great.

Chulos2k

I don't know much about the stroker kit but I am 100% sure the Kraftwerks s/c does not fit RHD cars. you might want to consider SOS, Comptech or TTS if going supercharged.

Happyhour

i looked into the NA route, strocked to 2.4L worked head with itb and headers back was going to be 285-300whp add a dry sump on you will get a boost in power, SC is the best way to go some of the kits on a stock setup will give you 300+ bhp depends on how much $$$$$ you toss into it dont forget fuel delivery and ecu and tune

redLINED_S2K

unfortunately as your aware, s2k doesnt have a good ratio for bolt on modification VS hp increase gained VS cost per hp. Because its a 2 ltr already producing 176kW in a highly tuned state there are two routes really - cheap route is make it sound better and get some gains in midrange, expensive and best gains being FI, followed by N/A which costs a lot and doesnt yield anywhere near what FI does.

Lets face it, the car can really use more pep and the stock power levels get boring. I just put on a K&N FIPK by itself recently and I must say i'm impressed with the responsiveness and extra 10hp that is yielded in the midrange - it has made the car so much more enjoyable to drive again and taken the pre-VTEC sluggishness away a bit, not to mention the killer VTEC noise.

I'm going to go down the cheap route myself, although i'd love to have a spare 15k to throw at my s2k for a mickey FI setup ) I have a cat back Apexi Evolution R dual muffler which will go on soon, and an apexi AFC NEO with the primary purpose of tuning the A/F ratios for fuel economy and secondary purposes of spicing (or ricing!) up the interior and squeezing out any additional horses that can be in a safe manner.

I was going to put a header but I heard its a 6 hour install which will be a headache in victoria as i'm guessing the aggressive/altered note that a header coupled with an air intake and exhaust will be likely attract the attention of the local 'po-po' and result in a trip to the EPA + 12 hours labour to get the header off and back on. I would have done this without question back in my late teens but I just cant be stuffed with the headaches and fines anymore. Plus unless you get the best J's racing header for 1800 which is proclaimed to be the best performing header making the most HP, its not really worth doing. 'Cheaper' headers fall into the 700-1000 bracket and after bucket load, upon bucket load of threads regarding headers it is really only worthwhile shelling out for the J's racing or Mugen. Anything cheaper will not guarantee fit onto the manifold and quality welds, reasonable gain in HP, and manufactured to spec so it fits on to the s2k without having to be bent or sent back to manufacturer (even Berk hiper which is fairly popular 'bang for buck' header have refunded customers on their headers which were essentially manufactured so out of spec that they would not even fit without being chucked into a pipe bender!). Many others are manufactured in the states or on LHD cars which introduces lovely little issues such as rubbing on the car frame and/or steering column, and without a heatshield melting various components nearby which are shielded by stock header shield.

A few other people on the forum have done pure N/A and it has always proved to be a very poor gain for dollar spent vs HP gained, worse in comparison to FI which isn't cheap by anyones imagination. Others have been transplanting foreign engines in such as LS1's or SR20DET's (most likely cause for this is penny poor young blokes who blow up their engine by abusing it and skimping on maintenance by spending all their money on beer!).

I dont think it would be a smart choice to go down the full on N/A modification route without realizing your probably pretty much also making an subconscious implicit decision at the same time to add FI on top of it afterwards when your not overly impressed by the modest N/A power gains and $ spent. The reality is that you will want to add at least 100hp on top of the stock power output using FI, then most likely get hungry for more and want to make that an extra who knows how many hundred HP's. hehe.

rus21s

Thanks for reading my post guys.

My setup so far is Spoon Dual 70mm exhaust, Berk 70mm HFC, J's Racing header, Password CF intake and 4.56 richmond gears.
thinking about installing the BC cam but neeed springs/Retainers/ ecu and cost for a dyno tune i cant see the value for 20hp

My boltonns are ok gains, car sounds awsome but gains are not impressive and where i want it to be. I think i will save for s/c kit
and when im close i will sell the password intake as it wont be required. Any questions guys im happy to help.

Cheers
Russ

redLINED_S2K

awesome exhaust setup you have there. I see you have shelled out the big bucks on the J's header - good job. I have been contemplating it but it just seems like a lot of dosh to spend for not a lot of HP. I dont suppose your in melbourne by any chance? wouldnt mind being taken for a rip in your car to hear it myself then decide whether i'm going to part with 1800 on the header or spend it on something more functional like a carbon bonnet. Was the installation time consuming? Any issues with EPA?

Greddy have a relatively newish kit out which adds 100hp and is a full complete kit which includes turbo, cooler, injectors, piggy back ecu, pipes so on and so forth. all engineered to fit nicely and the kit costs $5k - it is supposed to be an excellent kit for adding a decent amount of street useable HP in a reliable fashion which wont compromise the engine internals or reliability excessively, and is a perfectly designed kit to give the s2000 what it really needs; which is improved midrange and +100hp. it claims to provide good bang for buck by only adding actual useable horsepower without excessive lag, and being able to put down all of the horsepower gains on the street without lag translates to money well spent and driving pleasure. Larger turbo kits yield more top end power but introduce more lag and require external wastegates and all sorts of other modifications which will have you limping and bleeding after a visit to the EPA. The kit comes with a greddy e-manage ultimate piggy back.

I'm sure you have researched it but be careful with the S/C kit you buy as some arent very good quality even though they are expensive (dont fit together well and are not complete kits requiring extra parts such as hoses, and brackets/mounts to be fabricated, lovefab kits can be an example of this). The comptech S/C kit seems to be fairly popular choice for good quality and gains.

manonastick

Im surpised if anyone wants to stay n/a why doesnt anyone do a k24 frank swap, i heard the transmission from the s2k bolts up to the k series engine with a adapter plates.

ryanswhites2k

Rus you need a tune to make the most of your mods, once I got mine tuned it made a difference. I can recommend my guy I used but you need to get a piggyback first, there was a cheap one going on eBay a couple months ago including the loom for easy install that I put up on here but I have no idea who bought it. How do you find the new gear ratios, was it worth the $$$

rus21s

The ratio labour was $800 from richard Craft at crat differentials. Its better on petrol around town, im getting extrea 30km's a tank.
The only thing is theres whine on light throttle only and yeah it pulls better but i would not say its a huge difference.
J's header is a nice tune for the s2k but i found a used bargain for $1300 in the states and our dollar is good and thats what you guys should be doing.
I would not pay $1800 for it.
As for tune goes i want to just get a dyno run to see what power with these bolt onns can do? Rang a dyno place and they promised me 10hp with a full tune
costing $1600 lol its not worth it. My mechanic said its not worth that unless you upgrade the ECU cause theres not much more you can do from the standard ECU
so power run is next.

Chulos2k

then boost it