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S2Ker track build that will probably never be tracked
Currently how she sits now :
Modifications List:
Motor : - CompTech Novi 1000 Supercharger - CompTech header
- Urge Design V3 Dual Exhaust with Gern Pipe - KoyoRad radiator - Hondata K-Pro V3 ECU - Forged internals, ported polished head - JE Pistons - Darton Sleeves - Blocked Deck - Polished Crank - ARP Fasteners - Surfaced Cylinder Head - Excedy Performance Clutch
- Engine Balanced and Blueprinted
- Mishimoto Thermostatic oil cooler
Engine Bay Dress-up :
- Gladman Brake, Battery and coolant cover
- Zspec Dress up bolt in blue
- Vertex Oil Cap
- Spoon Reservoir socks
- Spoon Radiator Cap
- JBlood Kevlar Coil Pack Cover
- Titanium Coil Pack Bolts
- W2 Oil Catch Can
- Origin Fab coolant overflow tank
- Front strut bar
- Tein Hood Dampers
Suspension and Wheel :
- Spoon SW388 18's w/ 225 front and 255 rears.
- Project Kics Monolith T1/06
- KW V3 Clubsport Coilovers
- Spoon Rigid Collars
- CompTech Sway Bar (front and rear)
- StopTech Trophy Front BBK
- StopTech Rear Rotors and pads
- StopTech Stainless Steel Braid line all 4 corners
Interior :
- Recaro SPA (2x) with rails
- Recaro ASM seat Bolster cover (2x)
- Recaro head rest pillow (2x)
- ASM Ruby Seat Belt Guide (2x)
- ASM Short Hub w/ Mugen Steering wheel w/ NSX-R horn button and ring with titanium bolts.
- ASM Zoom Engineering Monaco 204 rear view mirror.
- Renegade Motorsport V2 Short shifter
- Honda OEM NSX-S Titanium Shift Knob
- Kenwood X998 Deck w/ Hertz HKS 165 Component Speaker w/ Modify DCI
- Modify cup holder
- TuxMat floor mats
Exterior :
- OEM Suzuka Blue Hardtop w/ OEM hardware and Toe-heel hardtop lock
- OEM CR front Lip
- OEM clear CR side marker - Tamon Design Kevlar Duck Bill mounted to OEM stock trunk
- J's Racing Type 2 1600mm wing w/ 195mm stands mounted on spare OEM trunk
- K1 Laboratory carbon duckbill used with the J's Wing
- ASM wide mirror insert
- Downforce rear diffusers and rear canard
- Chargespeed CF side skirts
For the longest time, I always wanted an S2K. Until last year, I had a chance to pick up one that was moderately modified. I decided that since it was already modified, I might as well do a low budget "authentic" parts track build and chronicle the changes to see the before and after. I also wanted all my mods to be reversible. So here it goes...
When I picked it up from the owner, she had 26k miles and look pretty stock :
But underneath she is a beast. The previous owner, did a proper build and all documented shop work. Underneath just a typically fully build F22c /w Comptech. I mean doesn't everyone have a Comptech (Novi 1000) now a days lol?
Mods Includes :
Mods:
Comptech Supercharger
Comptech header
Exhaust is stock
Koyorad radiator
Hondata K-Pro ECU
Forged internals, ported polished heads
JE Pistons
Darton Sleeves
Blocked Deck
Polished Crank
ARP Fasteners
Surfaced Cylinder Head
Excedy Performance Clutch
Engine Balanced and Blueprinted
H&R coilovers
Strut tower and sway bars
First thing first. Full AMSOIL front to back (twice, at 1K interval to let it soak in).
Second : OEM Lip and RPF1s SBC S2K specs.
Third : J's 70RS Ti + T1R Resonated Test Pipe
... Not done yet... more to come ....
Fourth : Mishimoto Thermostatic Oil Cooler, why? Well I figured since its SC, the oil temp might get a bit high. Also if i were to track it, will definitely be up there. I wanted to have some preventive measure to ensure a longer lasting engine. Got one brand new off of an S2Ki member =). After installing the oil cooler, the lines going underneath the comptech icebox pushed it up by a bit. Due to that, I wasn't able to close my hood with the stock hood prop. So I had to pick up a Tein Hood Damper.
Fifth. I wanted to join the big wang club. So I picked up a J's Type 1 and spare Suzuka blue trunk to drill, but finding the time to install is nearly impossible lol. So it still sit in the corner :
I then got bored of the RPF1 since everyone had them, so I switch to Work S1 3P in S2K specs. I dont want to roll my fenders and sticking to my no non reversible mods.
What's a track car without bucket seats? LoL. Picked up a pair of Recaro SPA (baller status) from another S2ki member with rails. After woolite and let it dry over night, these seats look LEGIT! They are extremely light and is in near perfect condition!
Before the install, had to remove my stock seat (which i sold), I figure I wont need them? I saw a few on eBay in Suzuka blue as well, so it wont be hard to find if I ever wanted to go back to stock.
The driver rails fit like a glove! They are the Nagisa Auto Super Low Down Seat Rail D-Lock. But the passenger came with Buddy Club and ohh how they suck. They didn't even line up, so I had cut off a little piece of the rail as marked below.
FINALLY AFTER 8 HRS!!! Most of it was taking it out, adjusting, putting it back in... then out .. then in, then readjust. In the end Recaro install was a PITA. (Ohh the Shift Knob is an ARC, it feels great. But its lighter than stock leather knob)
Now for my review after sitting in it. LoL, they look nice, they feel nice and they fit really nice. But if you are short (5'5), I wont recommend them. They sit really really low. With stock seats, I was able to see pass the hood. Now these, i can't. Also they are harder to get in and out, really really hard. You have to put your right hand on the center console and on the door still and push yourself up and out.
Also with these seats, the center console doesn't open if both seats are slide all the way back. One seat has to move forward for it to open, even then you have to use a little force to fully open it. Lastly, more complains about the buddy club rails. Since the passenger side has the transmission hump, the rail adjuster thingy would not fit. So you cannot adjust the rail when the seat is in the car. The only way is adjust it before then put it in. What is worse, when they are in with the seat fully back, the back two bolt is blocked and there no way to get the in there. I was able to only get 3 (i know unsafe), bolt fasten. I need to get new passenger rails later down the line.
Now on to my next mod, whichever I can get my hands (cheaply) on first :
1) Hardtop (mugen or oem), but I might have to go reps on these, since they are pretty expensive.
2) BBK. Track car gotta stop faster =)
3) K1 ducktail
4) New passenger seat rail
5) Maybe switch up my coilover to KW V3 or Ohlins? But this is a low priority. So next time I update, it would be one of the above top 3....
Have you experience any coolant cooling issues running the oil cooler in front of the heat exchanger and rad?
I'm planning to pick one up for my KW supercharged car, but am somewhat concerned with the amount of airflow getting to the rad with an oil cooler and heat exchanger in front...
Have you experience any coolant cooling issues running the oil cooler in front of the heat exchanger and rad?
I'm planning to pick one up for my KW supercharged car, but am somewhat concerned with the amount of airflow getting to the rad with an oil cooler and heat exchanger in front...
Nope no cooling issue at all, but i also have a Koyorad as well. From my temp gauge (have hondata ecu), I am always at the 3-4 bar and never pass the middle. In a way, from reading online sources etc, the oil cooler also take the heat away from the engine as well.
"Oil cooling is the use of engine oil as a coolant, typically to remove surplus heat from an internal combustion engine. The hot engine transfers heat to the oil which then usually passes through a heat-exchanger, typically a type of radiator known as an oil cooler. The cooled oil flows back into the hot object to cool it continuously."
Well one thing is finding the time to go and also its winter so that makes it worse lol. But I prefer to get the BBK first since the OEM rotors are known to crack with extreme stress.