SilliG

I was wanting to improve the suspension handling of the s2000 even more, I was in search of more grip for the rear wheels. After working with Sakebomb Garage they allowed me to test out their new FP Spec front sway bar coming out. I will hold off on the specs until they are ready to release them. But all I can say is good job once again and be ready for this as it should be releasing soon it pairs with the FP Spec Ohlin DFVs very well.

The swaybar install was very straight forward, there were no fitment issues at all. I am currently running the sway bar on the soft setting. I have run sway bars on previous cars and the biggest thing I always notice typically is the ride quality goes down over bumps. I can reassure anyone here that I am happy to say that nothing has changed regarding ride quality. The car feels a lot more planted when driving and less twitchy even when cruising around or going over big bumps. When taking it out for a spirited mountain ride over the weekend I felt very in tune with the road and this was a great addition to the FP Spec Ohlin DFVs. As I am still playing with my settings to figure out what I really like but its all smiles on this side.

SilliG

Whew I have not updated this build thread in awhile and a couple of changes have gone on with the car. Ill quickly summarize and keep things in order

Starting off I replaced my well beat Bridgestone Potenzas with Hankook RS4 225/45ZR-17 Fronts and 255/40ZR-17 Rears. I had them installed onto my Volk CE28N 17x7.5+50 Fronts and 17x9+63 Rears at Auto Innovations who offered great pricing and took care of my wheels not a scratch. I must say it was a night and day difference with fresh rubber and R comps. Just driving aggressively on back roads with friends I couldn’t find the limit where they started to break loose. My opinion of the Hankook RS4… two thumbs up

SilliG

I then ordered a set of Spoon Rigid Collars based on reviews here to sharpen up some of the driving feel more. Install wasn’t bad, starting out I had to get my car up on the highest setting on my jack stands to allow room for enough space to drop the subframe down in order to slip the rigid collars in since i did not have a lift. I also used 2 floor jacks to bring the subframe down slowly and equally it they wouldn’t smash my face in.
After the front subframe was dropped rigid collars went in smooth just had to disconnect the steering rack on the drivers side to allow more access to slip the rigid collar in.



Moving onto the back of the car it was straight forward just like the front subframe in theory. Looking back, I was getting tired when working on the rear and moving too fast just trying to complete the job. I ended up making a crucial mistake of not ensuring all the rigid collars were properly aligned when starting to raise the subframe back up to the chassis and I ended up crushing 2 rigid collars in the process. Hint hint for anyone thinking of taking this job on themselves check twice before reinstallation. So after kicking myself in the face and ordering a new set of Spoon rigid collars I got it back in properly and the car back on the road.


Broken & Smashed



All lined up and placed evenly this time around



My overall review of the spoon rigid collars is I can tell it made the car slightly stiffer and when going over bumps the chassis tends not to move around as much.

SilliG

It was great to finally get a real JDM part on the car because right after me and a group of college buddies went on a vacation in Tokyo we stopped at all the car shops, tracks, anime stores, bars and restaurants it was a great time. Here are some compiled pics of some of the car activities Nismo, Type One, ASM, Honda Corporate, Honda Collection Hall, Twin Ring Motegi Race track.. etc . All this did was reinforce all of the childhood dreams of looking at Japanese cars growing up and added more fuel to the fire. I appreciate my s2000 3x as much now

SilliG

After spending some more time on the boards and browsing around I found out about the rear axel nut tsb. I checked my car and noticed it was never done and the last thing I want is my rear wheel bearing to have premature wear and go out on me. The fix seemed pretty simple on paper following the DIY. Loosen a nut grease the outer edge and installing it tighter. After almost blowing my back out 2x…. I decided to just go to the hardware store get some pipe to give me some leverage. Even with a 5foot extension it took some work to move that nut off the car and to reinstall it even tighter. Tip for anyone doing it themselves save yourself some time and just get a very…very.. long extension to begin with.

SilliG

After spending even MORE time browsing around online (I really should get another hobby) I was looking at more preventive maintenance or any maintenance that can be done to the car to help shake off 10 years of use and make the driving experience more sharper. I came past the shifter regrease, there was nothing wrong with my shifter at all but after 55K miles and 10 years I figure things wear out and the job looked pretty simple. So i ripped apart the console removed all the old grease and replaced the plastic guides and completed the job in no time thanks to DIYguys on youtube. I must say its a noticeable difference shifting before was smooth. But this is on another level, it feels like the gears just fall in now. Makes driving aggressively even better when pounding the gears. This is probably what the car felt like new. I would recommended a shifter regrease, along with amsoil tranny fluid and clutch fluid change. I see why this is voted the best transmission ever made it makes the driving experience that much better.

SilliG

While cleaning up my garage I stumbled upon the extra rotors and rear brake pads that came with the car when I purchased it. I completely forgot I had these. The previous owner put new drilled and slotted rotors with pads on the front right before he sold it. He checked the rears and they were fine so he just gave me the box upon purchase of the car. The rear brakes and pads were completely stock in the rear and still holding up quite well. I was curious how these would perform i forget the brand name but I will add it in once it comes to me. Yes I know drilled rotors aren’t ideal and prone to cracking. Just wanted to get a brake change on this car under my belt and see if these were any good. Install was easy, I was excited to see the alignment bolts on the rotors weren’t rusted and everything came out smooth. I must say I do not feel any difference with these brakes installed on the car. If any improvement its minor and that might all be in my head.

SilliG

At this point I was looking to fully optimize everything I had done to the car so far regarding suspension and finally get corner balanced and aligned. I didn’t want to do it before even though I knew I should have I wanted to come to a point where I knew I wouldn’t be tweaking things that would throw off an alignment so I wouldn’t be constantly spending $ on going back. I went down and visited my good friends down at SakeBomb Garage to give me a hand.

Below are my final alignment specs and my cross balancing. Being a big weight whore (I like my cars light) I was impressed with my car being 2908lbs with 180lbs (me) in the passenger seat. Which means the car is 2728lbs without me. I would like to get the car down to 2500lbs without me in it if possible without too many sacrifices. If you have any ideas how that is possible without cutting please let me know. Im open to ideas.





After the alignment along with the suspension and tires I can say the car is 4x as capable than my driving skill will allow on the street. I need to get to a track ASAP.

SilliG

Here is where things get fun again now that some more housekeeping is out of the way. I came to the crossroads of not knowing where I wanted to go with the car next. I am currently throughly enjoying it and looked to see what area haven’t I hit yet that could better the car’s characteristics. I already did power mods, suspension, wheels and tires, but I didn’t really explore the brakes yet. So I started looking into brakes then it brought me to BBK online. After doing a bunch of research, I figured I wanted to do the SakeBomb Garage AP Racing BBK. It looks like the most functional BBK kit out on the market. The Sakebomb Garage larger rotor size was new to the platform and I didn’t mind being one of the firsts to try it out. Also, I have had nothing but great feedback when it comes to Sakebomb Garage parts.

Before I decide to pull the trigger to purchase the BBK. I realize that going to a BBK will be a big change because my current Ce38n S2k Spec wheel and tire package won’t work. I will have to run spacers (which I refuse to) to clear the calipers or I will have to go to a squared set up to accommodate the larger calipers. After some heavy thinking, research and weighing my options I decided to take the plunge.

So cue step 1, sourcing some new wheels. I wanted the lightest rim as possible, forged, rim that could clear the larger calipers without spacers, and didn’t require too much fender modification. I did not mind rolling my fenders but I did not want to have to pull them. So I found the evasive motorsport Volk Ce28n spec 17x9.5 +50 rims met it all my requirements. Forged, 16lbs a wheel, rated to fit large calipers with no spacers, and only required fender rolling. When getting ready to purchase it came down to getting the same conservative titanium silver which I had previously or going with the flat titanium grey. Seeing how my style is to remain as stock looking as possible and titanium silver was already in stock I went with that. Just so happens I was going to LA for a get together with my friends at the time. So it all worked out well I was able to put in my order and swing last Evasive Motorsports on my way home to pick up my new wheels. Packed up the Honda Fit and cruised home on the 101N to enjoy the California coast.




Oh yes I also purchased some flat center caps as well while I was at it not pictured. These wheels look good and it is amazing how light they are for being 9.5in wide. Can't wait to mount them

SilliG

Currently rolling on stock wheels awaiting to mount my 9.5in Volks on it was time to get my fenders rolled and bumper tab relocated to prepare for proper fitment without rubbing. This is NOT a job I am willing to do by myself in fear of beaconing my perfectly good fenders or cracking paint. So with the help of S2ki members direction I went to Trackspec Autosports here in the Bay area. Wow what a shop very clean, professional, track focused and a lot of other high end cars and S2Ks there made me feel confident I was in the right place. The fenders rolling went smoothly and Trackspec Autosports did a wonderful job not a scratch, cracked paint, melted paint or any bacon stripping of the fender. A+ work I was pleased. Oh yes fender rolling isn’t the easiest process to watch at times if you really care about your car.