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If you don't mind me asking - everyone always talks about the added HP they get from all their drivetrain mods, but no one ever seems to mention the resulting 0 - 60 or 0 - 100 times. I'd really like to know what effect the almost doubling of horsepower had on your "0 to X" times.
@SlowTeg I remember the clutch master cylinder being a failure point on S2ks. A friend had hers fail on her S2k and a buddy had his fail on RSX. I think replacing the clutch fluid every so often as maintenance significantly reduces the risk. I did put in a brand new master cylinder when my engine was out, but I started to make a habit of sucking out the hold clutch fluid with a syringe and refilling; yeah, I was too lazy to do a proper drain/flush/refill/bleed. But I figured at least swapping out a chunk of the fluid with gunk in it was beneficial.
I'll have to go check my v-bands and see if they need any tightening. Same as retorquing any nuts like on manifolds and wheels. I had to design some v-bands way back in the day and material selection is critical along with material thickness. Cheap v-bands use lower grade steel and also thinner materials. Those are just going to fail. Maybe hold up to street driving but not any track work. Garrett's v-bands are properly spec'd
My suspension bushings were toast at around 60k miles? I was getting a clunk from the front and I could feel the car do like a spring-back when coming to a stop because the bushing were so worn out. All the weight transfer to the front and then when the car finally was at a complete stop, the weight would shift back and I could feel the whole car shift a couple mm. There was also the left front wheel doing a shimmy during hard cornering on long highway on-ramps that was a giveaway, ha. I absolutely love my spherical bearing setup from Blacktrax. Not cheap, but it's relatively easy work. Take off the old parts, ship, get the new ones and install. I look all the work Rob Robinette did for his bushing install, yeah, F that! Time is in short supply, well worth paying Blacktrax to do all the dirty work and get a better product for the extra cost. https://robrobinette.com/S2000Bushings.htm
If you don't mind me asking - everyone always talks about the added HP they get from all their drivetrain mods, but no one ever seems to mention the resulting 0 - 60 or 0 - 100 times. I'd really like to know what effect the almost doubling of horsepower had on your "0 to X" times.
I can honestly say I have no clue and honestly don't particularly care too much. If I race at all it is from a roll. The s2k doesn't have a very strong diff and I don't care about racing from a dig. Just not my cup of tea. 1/4 mile I'd guess it's a 12 second car if you launch it properly.
@SlowTeg I remember the clutch master cylinder being a failure point on S2ks. A friend had hers fail on her S2k and a buddy had his fail on RSX. I think replacing the clutch fluid every so often as maintenance significantly reduces the risk. I did put in a brand new master cylinder when my engine was out, but I started to make a habit of sucking out the hold clutch fluid with a syringe and refilling; yeah, I was too lazy to do a proper drain/flush/refill/bleed. But I figured at least swapping out a chunk of the fluid with gunk in it was beneficial.
I'll have to go check my v-bands and see if they need any tightening. Same as retorquing any nuts like on manifolds and wheels. I had to design some v-bands way back in the day and material selection is critical along with material thickness. Cheap v-bands use lower grade steel and also thinner materials. Those are just going to fail. Maybe hold up to street driving but not any track work. Garrett's v-bands are properly spec'd
My suspension bushings were toast at around 60k miles? I was getting a clunk from the front and I could feel the car do like a spring-back when coming to a stop because the bushing were so worn out. All the weight transfer to the front and then when the car finally was at a complete stop, the weight would shift back and I could feel the whole car shift a couple mm. There was also the left front wheel doing a shimmy during hard cornering on long highway on-ramps that was a giveaway, ha. I absolutely love my spherical bearing setup from Blacktrax. Not cheap, but it's relatively easy work. Take off the old parts, ship, get the new ones and install. I look all the work Rob Robinette did for his bushing install, yeah, F that! Time is in short supply, well worth paying Blacktrax to do all the dirty work and get a better product for the extra cost. https://robrobinette.com/S2000Bushings.htm
@RexRacerX the added power from my setup just makes the car way more fun to drive. That's the only measurement I need
Thanks @spdracerut I always appreciate your responses as they're very informative. Fortunately (or unfortunately) I did replace the clutch master cylinder a year or so ago as I noticed some weeping from the seal. I will definitely pay a little more attention to it going forward and flush the fluid (it was pretty nasty). The car gets driven so infrequently these days it may be a while till it needs changing.
You make an interesting point on the manifold nuts. I haven't checked them since installing everything but I guess I should do that one day. Remove the heatshield and check that they're tight. Regarding the v-band one question for you. Do v-band clamps "wear out" over time if they are tightened/retightened many times? Just something I wonder as I tightened/retightened the turbo's v-band at least a dozen times when test fitting things. Just wondered if it's possibly "stretched" a bit at this point and maybe ought to replace it. The torque spec is pretty damn low on the nut (I gotta look it up it's been ages but I wanna say it's like ~120 in lbs or so or ~15ft lbs) and I don't want to crank on it and break it.
The shifter regrease (the tiny bushing in the bottom of the shifter) I want to say I did at some point along the way. I can't remember if I replaced the little bushing but I think I did. I wonder if it's back in this build thread.. maybe not.
The soft top I fortunately caught and checked when I first bought the car back in 2010. There was some slight wear on the inside and I performed the TSB as well as a bunch of other suggestions from s2ki. I used some gator guards and fabric glued some sunbrella fabric patches on the inside and they've been going strong for a long time now. *knock on wood*
Regarding the bushings.. the car is garaged and has ~55k miles, but they are ~17yrs old at this point so I guess I just gotta get under there and take a look. Did the NVH increase considerably after the spherical bushings? I installed a whole energy suspension master kit on my old integra and I know it's a big pita and a ton of work. The other thing that concerns me a bit with urethane bushings is they need to stay greased. I haven't thought too much about it but I guess I need to check the condition first and go from there.
No increase in NVH. If anything, it got quieter because the suspension arms where not banging around in busted bushings. The suspension movement is so much smoother along with more immediate reaction to steering inputs because the bushing slop is gone. Another interesting thing, now that I actually have torque, the rear tires spin super smoothly with no rear wheel hop. I let Kojima drive it and he thought it was clutch slip instead of the tires spinning because it was so smooth.
Not been upto too much with the s2k lately. Just putzing around on the street this past year and enjoying driving it when I can. I did install a 4 post this fall and got a new toy (99 Miata) that I've been doing a bunch of work on. It's a fun/cheap car that I want to get back out on track with more. Plan is ~250whp turbo setup for the miata.
what kind of 4 post did you get? how much ? looking todo the same
4 post is a Bendpak HD7W. The only "option" I got were 1 set of drip trays for underneath the lift. I think it was ~$5k shipped to my local freight shipping place where I picked it up.
Copying this from the other thread:
I had my garage door raised and jackshaft opener installed a few months ago in preparation for a 4 post at some point. My ceiling height is about 11'. I went with a bendpak hd7w.
The quote to install it was about $1300 and I like projects so opted to just install it myself. I did not get the bridge jack as my main use for the lift will be car storage rather than working on cars. A quick summary is the installation is simple and not hard to DIY but things are heavy and cumbersome. Unless you're a bodybuilder you will want at least a few jacks to move things around and ideally a hoist. A friend let me borrow his hoist and it was a life saver for unloading the runways and setting the runways in place. I'm glad I assembled it as I know exactly how it works should I have issues down the road.
Delivery of the lift costs $3-400 because they need a forklift to remove it so I opted to just pick it up instead. I am fortunate to have friends with trucks and one has a nice 20' trailer he let me borrow. The lift is long (I wanna say 17'ish). The hardest part with removing it off the trailer is the runways. Everything else can be moved by hand with a few guys imo.
Here's all the parts sitting in the garage.
And here it is operational. It is a little tighter in the garage but not horrible. I do have to remove the ramps before lowering it down completely as it won't clear the garage door. The garage is a typical builder size garage and is not even quite 20' from drywall to garage door where the lift is. What it means is I probably can't put long vehicles on the lift to change oil/etc, but that's the tradeoff I made. I didn't wanna move my workbench and stuff in front of that bay. I opted for the 110V plug in model. One thing the initial salesman didn't mention is that during operation the initial power draw is ~25amps on lift startup. During operation it's apparently <20amp. So, if you have a 20amp breaker, it will pop the breaker. Fortunately I have a dedicated circuit in the corner for my compressor with 10gauge wiring so I swapped the 20amp breaker for a 30amp. After I did that it worked as expected.
Last thing to do will be to drill holes in the concrete for the concrete anchors. This is more just to keep the lift from shimmying/moving at all. Sometimes it can move a bit over time.
If you have any questions about the lift just ask.
02-02-2023, 08:23 AM
