Question about GFs car
#1
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Question about GFs car
Alright, so tonight me and the GF were out running errands and all of the sudden her car started shuddering like crazy. It would knock, then dip below 500rpm and almost cut off. Then while driving.. it would hesitate and stutter, then knock (actually make a knock noise). I'm thinking it's either fuel delivery or misfire.
How it feels to me is when I had my boosted IS300 running on Emanage Blue and when the stock ecu would start to relearn.. it would hesitate and shudder. That's the only way I can describe it. And if you're cruising (no applying gas, but not letting off the gas) it starts to drop in rpm by like 750, then it'll stutter, and kick back in by like 1500rpm and keep doing that.
It's a 91 Automatic (dx I think) with less than 130k on the clock.
Any ideas? I keep telling her to let me do a tune up.. but apparently her car isn't her top priority until it starts to eff up .
TIA!
Aaron
How it feels to me is when I had my boosted IS300 running on Emanage Blue and when the stock ecu would start to relearn.. it would hesitate and shudder. That's the only way I can describe it. And if you're cruising (no applying gas, but not letting off the gas) it starts to drop in rpm by like 750, then it'll stutter, and kick back in by like 1500rpm and keep doing that.
It's a 91 Automatic (dx I think) with less than 130k on the clock.
Any ideas? I keep telling her to let me do a tune up.. but apparently her car isn't her top priority until it starts to eff up .
TIA!
Aaron
#2
Was the heater on in the car? It might be the main fuel relay solder joints expanding when hot turning the fuel pump on/off. It happens on alot of the older hondas.
If that's not it, check the condition of the cap and rotor.
If that's not it, check the condition of the cap and rotor.
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The heater wasn't ON, ON. But it was turned to full hot, and the switch on "incoming air" so I dunno if that counts. Like.. if you're at a stop, no air flow, but when the car moves, depending on the position on the dial, it can have flow hile moving, or "circulate" the air inside (no flow while moving). It was in the middle.. so air flows while moving, and on full hot. But we've had the heater on before with no issues.
I think I'm just going to do a full tune up with plugs/wires/cap/rotor soon. And see if that causes the problem. I was just trying to see if anyone had an idea so we could figure out the problem, before throwing parts at it.
I know that the air control valve on the top of the valve cover is bad but, again, this has never happened before. And she's had the car for over 3 years.
I think I'm just going to do a full tune up with plugs/wires/cap/rotor soon. And see if that causes the problem. I was just trying to see if anyone had an idea so we could figure out the problem, before throwing parts at it.
I know that the air control valve on the top of the valve cover is bad but, again, this has never happened before. And she's had the car for over 3 years.
#4
Usually the bad main relay problem will only occur on hot days in the summer, but during the winter the heater is sometimes sufficient in heating the area where the main relay is to cause the same problem.
Try the cap and rotor first to see if that fixes it. If not then just pull out the main relay and resolder the three joints on it, its a quick and easy fix.
Try the cap and rotor first to see if that fixes it. If not then just pull out the main relay and resolder the three joints on it, its a quick and easy fix.
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Originally Posted by GizmoIsChinese,Mar 6 2009, 02:49 AM
Usually the bad main relay problem will only occur on hot days in the summer, but during the winter the heater is sometimes sufficient in heating the area where the main relay is to cause the same problem.
Try the cap and rotor first to see if that fixes it. If not then just pull out the main relay and resolder the three joints on it, its a quick and easy fix.
Try the cap and rotor first to see if that fixes it. If not then just pull out the main relay and resolder the three joints on it, its a quick and easy fix.
Thanks for the help!
Aaron
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Originally Posted by mmagic,Mar 6 2009, 09:06 AM
that happened to me with my crx. it was a bad ignitor within the distro.
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no you dont need the whole distro. the ignitor core is connected with two screws that you can take out to replace, if that is indeed the problem. i went to the junkyard and bought the whole distro and that solved my problem. might be worth it for you to do the same. you might as well do rotor, cap, wires, and plugs while youre at it.