M3 costs to maintain?
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 734
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From: San Diego
The main things to check for are general maintenance (fluids, belts, etc.), cooling system, and suspension. The OEM radiators have plastic necks that crack over time. I would be wary of a car that has as older OEM style radiator, and if purchased as such switch to an all aluminum radiator. There was also an issue with the factory water pumps coming with plastic impellers that occasionally grenaded themselves. However, if the pump has been replaced it should have a metal or composite impeller, and if it hasn't run away from that car.
For suspension, the OEM shocks and bushings wear out after about 60k so it's good to know when they were last replaced. Having replaced bushings on several of these cars I can tell you it isn't a very fun job. The rear shock mounts and towers are known weak points (as someone noted above) and can take more abuse from modified suspension. Reinforcement plates are cheap ($15-20), so if the car doesn't have them I would get some, and be wary of a car with modified suspension that doesn't have them.
Little stuff that's pretty much standard: leaky valve cover gasket (they only last for about 15k for some reason, regardless of brand), door panels and headliner will probably be falling off if they haven't been addressed, window clips tend to break, and everything is held together with plastic clips. 17 year old plastic clips. They will break the moment you touch them, and they are $1-2 each from the stealership.
Other than that, like any car, the lower the miles, more records, and more anal retentive the previous owner is the better.
For suspension, the OEM shocks and bushings wear out after about 60k so it's good to know when they were last replaced. Having replaced bushings on several of these cars I can tell you it isn't a very fun job. The rear shock mounts and towers are known weak points (as someone noted above) and can take more abuse from modified suspension. Reinforcement plates are cheap ($15-20), so if the car doesn't have them I would get some, and be wary of a car with modified suspension that doesn't have them.
Little stuff that's pretty much standard: leaky valve cover gasket (they only last for about 15k for some reason, regardless of brand), door panels and headliner will probably be falling off if they haven't been addressed, window clips tend to break, and everything is held together with plastic clips. 17 year old plastic clips. They will break the moment you touch them, and they are $1-2 each from the stealership.
Other than that, like any car, the lower the miles, more records, and more anal retentive the previous owner is the better.
This is all you really need to look out for. If you're willing to do the work yourself they really are not expensive car and very comparable to a S2k in performance-way more driver friendly too. Take about $1,000 off the price of any used ones you look at that don't have the cooling system overhauled (unless the seller has already adjusted for it) and when you do replace the waterpump get one with a metal or ceramic impeller; more expensive but it will last a lot longer than the shit OEM replacements. The suspension overhaul can be taken care of in chunks if money is tight and the subframe issues are not as bad as regular E36's (M3's after built after late 94 all have some reinforcement from the factory) if you are running the stock suspension and street tires. If you plan on tracking or autocrossing heavily you may also want to look into getting the oil pump nut secured since they back off occasionally.
I also wouldn't be afraid of well maintained higher mileage cars. If the car was taken care of 150k+ is not an issue. Check out bimmerforums and read as much as you can. These are great cars and I have no issue saying mine was the best car I've owned.
Oh, and get a Stromung catback. Dat inline 6 engine note at WOT
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 5,101
Likes: 841
If you haven't been here already, read through some of this.
http://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/tech...h_main_e36.htm
This was one of my go to places.
I spent around 6+ months restoring an E30 325is...
I'd expect about the same kind of work needed for a neglected e36 m3. The motor will be slightly less finicky - no timing belt. And, you should have updated AC - r134a, so your HVAC system shouldn't be as big of a PITA.
http://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/tech...h_main_e36.htm
This was one of my go to places.
I spent around 6+ months restoring an E30 325is...
I'd expect about the same kind of work needed for a neglected e36 m3. The motor will be slightly less finicky - no timing belt. And, you should have updated AC - r134a, so your HVAC system shouldn't be as big of a PITA.
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 630
Likes: 2
From: Miami
Originally Posted by matthugie' timestamp='1427811697' post='23561238
The main things to check for are general maintenance (fluids, belts, etc.), cooling system, and suspension. The OEM radiators have plastic necks that crack over time. I would be wary of a car that has as older OEM style radiator, and if purchased as such switch to an all aluminum radiator. There was also an issue with the factory water pumps coming with plastic impellers that occasionally grenaded themselves. However, if the pump has been replaced it should have a metal or composite impeller, and if it hasn't run away from that car.
For suspension, the OEM shocks and bushings wear out after about 60k so it's good to know when they were last replaced. Having replaced bushings on several of these cars I can tell you it isn't a very fun job. The rear shock mounts and towers are known weak points (as someone noted above) and can take more abuse from modified suspension. Reinforcement plates are cheap ($15-20), so if the car doesn't have them I would get some, and be wary of a car with modified suspension that doesn't have them.
Little stuff that's pretty much standard: leaky valve cover gasket (they only last for about 15k for some reason, regardless of brand), door panels and headliner will probably be falling off if they haven't been addressed, window clips tend to break, and everything is held together with plastic clips. 17 year old plastic clips. They will break the moment you touch them, and they are $1-2 each from the stealership.
Other than that, like any car, the lower the miles, more records, and more anal retentive the previous owner is the better.
For suspension, the OEM shocks and bushings wear out after about 60k so it's good to know when they were last replaced. Having replaced bushings on several of these cars I can tell you it isn't a very fun job. The rear shock mounts and towers are known weak points (as someone noted above) and can take more abuse from modified suspension. Reinforcement plates are cheap ($15-20), so if the car doesn't have them I would get some, and be wary of a car with modified suspension that doesn't have them.
Little stuff that's pretty much standard: leaky valve cover gasket (they only last for about 15k for some reason, regardless of brand), door panels and headliner will probably be falling off if they haven't been addressed, window clips tend to break, and everything is held together with plastic clips. 17 year old plastic clips. They will break the moment you touch them, and they are $1-2 each from the stealership.
Other than that, like any car, the lower the miles, more records, and more anal retentive the previous owner is the better.
This is all you really need to look out for. If you're willing to do the work yourself they really are not expensive car and very comparable to a S2k in performance-way more driver friendly too. Take about $1,000 off the price of any used ones you look at that don't have the cooling system overhauled (unless the seller has already adjusted for it) and when you do replace the waterpump get one with a metal or ceramic impeller; more expensive but it will last a lot longer than the shit OEM replacements. The suspension overhaul can be taken care of in chunks if money is tight and the subframe issues are not as bad as regular E36's (M3's after built after late 94 all have some reinforcement from the factory) if you are running the stock suspension and street tires. If you plan on tracking or autocrossing heavily you may also want to look into getting the oil pump nut secured since they back off occasionally.
I also wouldn't be afraid of well maintained higher mileage cars. If the car was taken care of 150k+ is not an issue. Check out bimmerforums and read as much as you can. These are great cars and I have no issue saying mine was the best car I've owned.
Oh, and get a Stromung catback. Dat inline 6 engine note at WOT
If you haven't been here already, read through some of this.
http://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/tech...h_main_e36.htm
This was one of my go to places.
I spent around 6+ months restoring an E30 325is...
I'd expect about the same kind of work needed for a neglected e36 m3. The motor will be slightly less finicky - no timing belt. And, you should have updated AC - r134a, so your HVAC system shouldn't be as big of a PITA.
http://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/tech...h_main_e36.htm
This was one of my go to places.
I spent around 6+ months restoring an E30 325is...
I'd expect about the same kind of work needed for a neglected e36 m3. The motor will be slightly less finicky - no timing belt. And, you should have updated AC - r134a, so your HVAC system shouldn't be as big of a PITA.
For the price I was expecting more. Came to about $1,000ish
http://www.achillesmotorsports.com/P...ode=11-AM-UOPR
http://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-20...25i328im3.aspx
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