Replace s2000 with LS FD RX7?
#11
I've seen a few V8 FDs at the track and they seem to be really neat cars. However, when it came time for me to purchase one I went with a single turbo rotary. Though the weight difference may be minimal, a quick peek in the engine bay will reveal how much engine mass is further forward in the swapped car. A stock 13B will have a CG clearly behind the front axle. I'm not a suspension or engineering specialist but I can see how that could adversely change the cars driving dynamics and I'd rather try to preserve that balance.
If I was not tracking my car, I definitely would consider a V8 FD. A turbo S2000 would be similar to FD and overall speed would be determined by money alone, same as any other car. I prefer the complete package of the FD over the S2000. Fun Fact: Did you know that when the suspension of the FD is compressed 2 inches it gains -3 camber to aid in handling?
One thing I can attest to though is that FD stands for "financial disaster". It cost a lot of money to mod and to keep it running properly. If you are not making big bucks I would advise you to stay away from this car. But if your pockets are deep enough, you too can be rolling around on 400whp with a smile on your face. I think of the V8 as cheating in a good way because you get the gas mileage and reliability. You just won't be rolling around in the "intended" package, which is what attracted me in the first place.
If I was not tracking my car, I definitely would consider a V8 FD. A turbo S2000 would be similar to FD and overall speed would be determined by money alone, same as any other car. I prefer the complete package of the FD over the S2000. Fun Fact: Did you know that when the suspension of the FD is compressed 2 inches it gains -3 camber to aid in handling?
One thing I can attest to though is that FD stands for "financial disaster". It cost a lot of money to mod and to keep it running properly. If you are not making big bucks I would advise you to stay away from this car. But if your pockets are deep enough, you too can be rolling around on 400whp with a smile on your face. I think of the V8 as cheating in a good way because you get the gas mileage and reliability. You just won't be rolling around in the "intended" package, which is what attracted me in the first place.
#12
If you really want a FD my advice would be to pick up one with a blown engine for under $10k then spend another $10k on a rebuild/turbo upgrade/tune. Then you'll have a nice, trouble-free ride for atleast 80k miles depending on how high you boost on pump gas, 450whp should be max at 91 octane without water/meth injection. Each consecutive rebuild should be $5k or less which you should have sitting around in case your oil metering pump dies (w/ no premix) or your engine builder does a sub-par job.
Don't skimp out on the rebuild or a $10 part can make you start over from scratch.
Don't skimp out on the rebuild or a $10 part can make you start over from scratch.
#13
Another option, but only if you want to keep it for more than a year or two:
If you don't trust your car with boost, you could get a new or barely used MY06-MY08 for $25-30k, drop $8k from the sale of your car on the boxed rotrex high-boost kit and clutch, and then put the other $8k down on the new/newer car. You'll have a brand new car with 375whp, and even if you get a brand new CR you could probably keep the payments under $500/month.
You might be able to find a C6 for similar money, but you might have to keep it stock or very near stock to afford it.
Either way: Reliability? check.
I'd almost bet that on cradle-to-grave costs for the car, you'd end up about the same after 5-7 years. But your payments would happen monthly at scheduled intervals instead of whenever the car leaves you stranded because of a worn or broken part.
If you don't trust your car with boost, you could get a new or barely used MY06-MY08 for $25-30k, drop $8k from the sale of your car on the boxed rotrex high-boost kit and clutch, and then put the other $8k down on the new/newer car. You'll have a brand new car with 375whp, and even if you get a brand new CR you could probably keep the payments under $500/month.
You might be able to find a C6 for similar money, but you might have to keep it stock or very near stock to afford it.
Either way: Reliability? check.
I'd almost bet that on cradle-to-grave costs for the car, you'd end up about the same after 5-7 years. But your payments would happen monthly at scheduled intervals instead of whenever the car leaves you stranded because of a worn or broken part.
#14
One of the members in the Upstate New York area did just that - he sold his S and built an LS1 FD. The build thread can be found here, if you want an idea of what you'd be getting yourself into:
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=464581
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=464581
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