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Following the success of various other rebuild threads and nothing at all to do with being back at work with nothing to do at the start of the new term, I give you the V8 Landy rebuild thread!
***Editted to add more picturey goodness, Sun 26 April****
***Editted to add Task List, Mon 27 Apr****
***Task list updated PM 27 Apr****
***Updated to report general rubbishness, 28 Apr****
Background
Having driven a number of Land Rovers, including Defender Td5s and Tdis at work, I have been truly smitten for some time by the power of the Green (or black) Oval.
Hence, in 2005 when the need arose for a more practical car to haul large quantities of wet dive gear for long distances, a pre-facelift Freelander V6 Auto was an obvious (?) choice. Happy with the performance onroad, albeit with S2000-esque fuel economy, I began to ponder the off-roading possibilities. After all, it is a Landy, right...?
Needless to say, these early green laning trips resulted in the predictable graunching sounds from under the car and snails-pace progress through anything resembling ruts. Having re-hung the rear silencer for the 7th time in 3 miles, I remarked to a good friend and colleague that I wished that there was something that I could do to mod the FL to give better ground clearance and (perish the thought) some reasonable traction for under
Did you have any wear on the followers? I have a new camshaft, and can't see any wear on the followers but until we get it back together and liik at the lift it's hard to tell if they're worn or not.
And on the rockershaft, was it the shaft itself that was worn? I don't think we have a new one but might look into it before we start if it's likely to be a problem.
The golden rule is that if you change the cam, you change the followers. This is because they will both wear against one another during the running in process, hence the need not to allow the engine to idle for the first 20 mins after startup... The key is whether there is any wear to the face of the follower. With it removed from the engine, if there is any sign of a circular depression in the centre of the follower, you need to replace. The RV8 employs a "hydraulic" cam, designed to rotate the followers slightly with each stroke, hence the cam lobes are cut with a side slope on them. Once your cam lobes become worn, they fail to rotate the followers and sure enough, the now egg-shaped tip of the cam will wear away the centre of the follower, giving the classic dished look. If you re-install these with a new cam, the lobes will wear to fit the profile of the tappet during the running in phase and you will be back to square one.
cheers - the guy I bought the engine from told me the followers were new, but I've learned not to believe everything you're told when buying engiines and assume the worst. At least I now know what to look for when the followers do come out....
I think Darren has the shim kit from an RV8 he's done before, so if I need one it's covered, but AFAIK the head and block faces haven't been skimmed, so it should be OEM clearances on everything (but you knver know when you buy in....).
Having been in the car club at work on friday with camera in hand, I thought you deserved to see where it is that the rebuild is going on.
The car club is situated in the casements of a palmerston fort, in the grounds of HMS Sultan. Facilities include storage for project bits:
A well equipped workshop area:
Two four post ramps and a 2 poster:
and more tools than you can shake a stick at:
This is 1 of 3 cabinets, plus full tool sets in the bays.
Needless to say, the club attracts a variety of car owners. Pictured above is one of the latest additions to the S2000 forum (albeit as an enthusiast), SPD16V aka Rob (hello mate!).
Here is another gratuitous pic of his astra ("ooh, wait while I put the carbon spark plug cover on - it makes a real difference"):
Right, back OT:
Here's what's left of the damage, the rest having been cleaned up and sent on for machining, or unceremoniously dumped into the skip!
Main Bearing Caps:
A Bunch of Pistons - some superficial scoring, but basically OK:
The crank, post a good clean-up. Again, some very minor superficial marks, but OK. The dark lines are the oil varnish left from between the two big ends that run on each journal:
Here's a bargain: New/old front timing cover that I acquired for two evenings' labour on a mate's BMW brakes:
Regretably, it's from a very early range rover (I think) as it has the shorter oil pump gear case and a hole for a mechanical lift pump. After some quick thinking, a gear pump upgrade kit was purchased, along with a new set of the longer (higher flow) pump gears. The fuel pump hole was the work of but 20 mins with the scrap aluminium drawer, hacksaw, file and drill... then another 5 re-drilling and threading the casing to accept my metric bolts and sealing it all up with a generous dose of silly **** sealant! All in all, a bargain at