So somewhere on this site their is some info that says stretch the springs and drill a bigger hole in the tct oil inlet spot.... Is there any truth to this or is it bs???? Looking for a cheap an easy fix for the tct instead if paying a hundred just for it to go bad in a couple months....

 

I would avoid stretching the spring AND drilling the hole bigger... just remove the worm gear and have it sandblasted like the Billman thread suggests. If you have access to a sandblaster, the fix is free. I am planning on doing this over the winter while my car is down for maintenance.

I am boosted, but also use a 5w40 synthetic (AMSoil). My car has used Mobil 1 for as long as the previous owner had the car, and I have seen no ill effects. I don't believe that bad TCT's are limited to users of Mobil 1. My car didn't burn a single ounce of Mobil 1 when I was running it.

 

My car is burning two to three qts every oil change wit Mobil one gonna get some thicker oil

 

What is your change interval? If you are burning 2 to 3 quarts every 3000 to 4000 miles you probably have bigger issues then the oil thickness.

Have you had compression and leak down tests done?

 

Good lawd! That's a lot of lost oil. Are you taking a lot of hard left turns under acceleration? Lol. Like the guy above me said, that could be getting to the realm of some bad seals, etc. Maybe look into a compression/leakdown test if you can find a place to get it done cheap. I got one done for ~$60 before I went FI to make sure everything was good.

 

I have always used a stock tct amsoil 0w30 and never had any tct issues.. even with stage 3 cams and supertech valve springs at 10k rpms.

Mobil1 shears down very quickly, especially when it gets hot.

 

Hey thanks for the info but what is a leak down test and before you went FI ??????

 

Also when I started using the full Mobil one synthetic is when it started to burn a lot of oil .... Before that honestly when I would check it ... It was always at the full mark ... Could just be a coincidence though and something is messed up in my s2!!!

 

A compression/leakdown test checks the compression PSI rating on each cylinder to make sure that there are no leaks in the seals on the intake/exhaust valves and cylinder rings. It checks for immediate compression as well as holds a pressure for an extended period of time to see if any of the pressure leaks out slowly over time. You want to see consistent numbers across all cylinders, and I believe a good PSI rating is in the lower 200's. When I got my compression/leakdown test done I believe mine were all 206-208 PSI.

FI means forced induction; I installed a supercharger on my S2000 and wanted to make sure all my seals were good before doing so. Compression/leakdown test is a good way to check this.

If you were using a conventional oil (or even semi-synthetic) it is possible that some of the seals/rings accumulated some amount of "sludge" on them, which the full synthetic oil has now cleaned off or removed. Therefore, what was once sealed by the "sludgy" stuff is now causing oil to leak through the seal and burn off. It is very common for higher mileage engines to start burning oil if the move is made from conventional to synthetic. Its not really a bad thing, just a more negative side effect of making the move.

 

I use Rotella t6 5w40 as well.

I burn through a bunch of oil as well. But thats not because of the rotella or the new motor, its due to turn 1 at VIR.