First Name: Caleb
Price: $13,000 OBO
Location: Durham, NC
Contact: PM

Details about the Car:
2004 Silverstone S2000 with 116,060 miles
JHMAP21444T005251
Clean title in hand, Clean CarFax available
Stock condition except: OEM front lip, Kenwood KDC-X996 head unit + Modifry DCI, black chrome emblems, clear side turn indicators, Billman Gen X timing chain tensioner, Hasport differential mounts, Spoon rigid collars, Centric rotors and pads, AP2V2 wheels + RE71 tires
All VINs matching except: Front left fender, Front bumper
Optionally included: AEM cold air intake

I bought this car in 2012, and I have kept it in great condition since then. I have a lengthy description of everything I know about it here, because I want this car to be what the buyer is looking for. Pricing is OBO and I am willing to consider fair offers that result in the car going to a good home. I have paperwork for almost everything below that I will turn over to the new owner.


Care & Usage: It was originally a Dallas/Fort Worth car. I don’t know a whole lot about this part of its history besides the Carfax information which I will freely share. No accidents or damage has ever been reported. It was sold in 2011 by a dealership to the previous owner that I bought it from, and shipped to Raleigh, NC. I believe it to have been garaged its whole life. I bought it with ~74,000 miles on it and I have put another ~42,000 miles on it myself. Mostly driving to work and around the area when it is nice outside, although I have taken it to the mountains twice. It has been driven in fewer than 10 Autocross events by me, but it has had no other track history. It has never had performance modifications beyond an AEM cold air intake and an Ingalls engine torque damper installed on it, and is currently in almost entirely stock condition.


Maintenance:
I have personally maintained the car for the duration of my ownership, by recommended mileage, with Mobil 1 5W-30 engine oil, Amsoil MTF, Amsoil 75-110 diff fluid, ATE 200 brake fluid, and NGK 7772 spark plugs. I have adjusted the valves twice on this car, and have never seen any issues with odd clearances or damaged retainers. I have my own record of dates/mileage, and will pass this on to the buyer. I have used polymer sealant on the paint, but have not done any polishing or paint correction, since it doesn’t show whirls in the Silverstone paint very easily.


Interior: it is in really good shape overall. After I bought the car I repaired the foam in the driver side bolster, but it still has some evidence of age as you can see in the pictures. The leather has all been kept up with Lexol and has no cracking or dryness issues.


Body: The worst downside of the car is the front bumper repaint/replacement, damage, and repainted drivers side fender. When I bought the car it did not have VINs on the bumper or drivers side fender, and there was a fairly large section of the lower lip on the bumper that had been impacted. It was missing some paint in a ~4” section, had paint lines spidering out of the creases from the stress, and the black plastic grille in the front bumper was loose. It also affected the panel gap on the passengers side of the car around the headlight (pictured). The PPI showed that there was no evidence of any radiator/frame/suspension replacement, no accident history, and I didn’t feel like replacing the entire bumper over cosmetics. I was planning to add an OEM lip and when I finally bought and test fit it over the damaged section it covered almost all of the visible damage (pictured). I have been happy with this solution, but you will be able to make out that the metallic fleck is a bit different on the front left fender, that the right fender still has a little more gap than the left, and that the bumper has the stress lines still visible (pictured). There was a front plate on the car in Texas and it has some rub marks left from this, so I am assuming that this repaint must have happened before it moved to NC in 2011.

There are also scratches in a few places. On the rear bumper, as if someone had scratched it while loading the trunk. On the rear passenger quarter, just beneath the antenna. On the front lip driver side. On the hood where a rock struck it. I have done no corrective work for these, and they are pictured.


Non-stock/Repair Items:
The stock radio did not work when I bought it, so I replaced it immediately with a Kenwood KDC-X996 aftermarket unit. I bought and wired in the Modifry DCI to enable the dash controls to be used with this head unit as well as a Modifry plug and play adapter so that there is no splicing in the wiring.

In 2013, a rock flew up from the car ahead and struck the hood and windshield (still a Honda windshield at that time). There is a small dent/scratch on the hood from this (pictured), and I had to have the windshield replaced since it began to spread immediately. The new windshield is a PGW and it has held up well over the past 5 years.

Also in 2013 I noted that the clutch master cylinder began to leak. I purchased a new one from Honda and replaced it myself. At this time I pulled the slave cylinder, smoothed it per the write-ups here on S2KI, greased the shift fork, and greased the shifter assembly in the cabin for good measure. I have had no issues with the transmission or clutch, and I have only used ATE 200 fluid in it since then. It is my understanding that the clutch has never been replaced in the car. Beyond the handful of autocross events that I have done, I never push the clutch hard, and I have never experienced any slipping or signs of wear.

In 2014 I made a HTG order to buy hardtop strikers and decided to replace the amber side indicators with clear, and all of the emblems to black chrome. I have the original chrome emblems, which would need new adhesive to reattach. The amber side indicators were brittle and the tabs fractured in the process of removing them.

In 2015 I began to have the typical ticking from the timing chain during idle. I swapped my tensioner out to Billman for a Gen X TCT, and it has had no issues since then.

In 2017 I noted that the fluid had leaked out of one of the differential mounts and, after investigation, decided on buying the Hasport diff mounts as a replacement. I was also doing a few autocross events and was intrigued by the Spoon rigid collar claims and installed these while I was working on the car. I won’t say that neither of these makes a difference in the rigidity of the chassis, or directness of the drivetrain, but I don’t think I have been able to detect the difference. At any rate, the diff mounts have been replaced and the subframe bolts are all brand new and torqued properly with anti-seize on them.

Finally, in 2018 I happened upon another S2000 for sale here on the forums. I swapped the soft top and wheels between the cars, since I also have a hardtop that I’m keeping on the new car, and I wanted to keep my wheels as well. It is the original 2007 top from my new car and has ~31,000 miles and 11 years of being garaged. The elastic has begun to fail, and it will need to have the Modifry soft top strap replacement, since I saw that it has begun to rub on the passengers side (pictured). Otherwise the top is in great condition and looks good. The wheels are 2007 OEM AP2v2 and are also from my new car.

I have taken off the AEM CAI so as to leave the buyer with a pretty blank slate. I am willing to part with it as a part of the sale, if the buyer wants to include it. If not, I’ll keep it and possibly install it on the new car.

Let me know any questions or areas you would like more pictures of. Thanks for looking!

Bumping this. No firm offers at the moment, and I’ve adjusted the asking price.

Still for sale? How much oil does it burn?
Thanks!

It is still for sale, and I’ve never had to refill it between oil changes. I think the AP2s are much better about this than the AP1s. It may lose a tad on the dipstick markings, but it gets nowhere near low in 5000 miles of driving.

I like your car, nicely presented... not in the market, but I thought it deserved a bump.

good luck