Delaware Valley S2000 Members Delaware, Eastern PA (Philly)Southern New Jersey

what would you do

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Old Sep 23, 2008 | 07:54 AM
  #11  
s2killa's Avatar
 
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no need to tune now... our cars run pig rich so youre good to go... when you get more mods, then maybe think about getting a tune, but for now youre good to go...
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Old Sep 23, 2008 | 06:25 PM
  #12  
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Jumping ahead a bit, you may be a hair leaner-but by no means lean. Tuning may be in order for your next step, (whatever that might be). For now youll be fine.
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Old Sep 24, 2008 | 11:50 AM
  #13  
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U know after I added my I/H/TP/E i lose about 60-70 miles per tank of gas, and it seems to run richer. could i just be loosing it. I only get about 220 Miles per tank.
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Old Sep 24, 2008 | 03:45 PM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by yorkman1,Sep 24 2008, 02:50 PM
U know after I added my I/H/TP/E i lose about 60-70 miles per tank of gas, and it seems to run richer. could i just be loosing it. I only get about 220 Miles per tank.
My gas mileage has increased since the I/TP/E. The car still farts monster black clouds though.
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Old Sep 25, 2008 | 03:47 AM
  #15  
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It's not uncommon for the car to actually run rich after standard bolt-ons as well as lean, it depends on the computer program. People tend to assume more air = more lean, but forget completely about the oem comp's ability to adapt to what has been installed. Usually when a stock computer sees an increase in air, it will increase it's fuel to get back to the stock AF ratio, which results in lower mpg.

every car is different, thats why you tune.
While this is unquestionably true, that does not mean that one quality 65mm single is drastically different then another. The pre-tuned emanage's are setup to use the dip switches on the side of the box to alter the tune to different configurations. They have setting for one or more bolt ons (level of oxygen increased) and for tune aggressiveness (for different environments and supporting mods such as temp management), but you don't have to stick to the one that describes your car necessarily.

So if you have intake and exhaust, but maybe the exhaust is one of the ones that doesn't make any power or help with flow, then set it to just 1 mod instead of two.

The goal of a pre-tuned piggy back is not to get every last hp out that you can, but to get substantial improvement for minimum time and money. I have spoken with giles a number of times about it and have seen the impressive results from a number of owners on the board. It will be the next mod for my car, and would already be on my car except for my compulsive habit of buying stuff for all my other hobbies.
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Old Sep 25, 2008 | 06:45 AM
  #16  
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cool, thanks for the help.. I have a dyno time setup for Monday at 5 at Autospeed, which I will be checking my AFR. I spent 3 hours trying to unbolt my heatshield to my header, and I'm still working on it! Major PITA. I will not be doing a baseline especially since autospeed is $125 bucks for 3 runs. I'm hoping my testpipe comes in before Sunday so I can dyno with the FIPK, berk header and TP. I'm hoping I won't have AFR issues, but I'm kind of concerned at WOT.. If there is a problem, I'll be ordering the pre-tuned EMU. I'd rather not spend $1,120 right now if I don't need to,,,trying to plan a honeymoon
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Old Sep 25, 2008 | 08:47 AM
  #17  
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There should be no "problems" that would need any kind of tuning. After installation make sure you reset your ecu (either pull the fuse or disconnect the battery) so that it can start adapting to the mods from a fresh starting point. Lately most seem to suggest varied driving styles (light, hard, low rpm, high rpm etc) for the first 48 hours to get everything worked out.

Good luck and let us know the results!
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