yeah well the clutch kit comes with an alignment tool so it should simplify the process. and im going to be at the shop while they are doing it so im definitely keep an eye on it. but they do have a bad ass 9 second civic in their shop. but the only things i see possibly getting f'ed up are the driveshaft bolts with the hex heads or the crossmember bolts getting stripped. because if they take my car off the lift and its not running right well then there is no argument that it is their fault and they should have to fix it.

 

Supah - DO NOT trust Cool and Deadly. They did an H22 swap into a friend's accord, and it did not run for SHIT. Took almost a month to get the idle below 3000 RPMs! That was a much more involved job, though, converting OBDI-OBDII....converter problems. I just have not heard great things. I have lived here my entire life, and I still have yet to find someone other than Honda that I would trust my car to.

They "good willed" it because I have the certified extended warranty, and we were not sure if it was considered a "wear related item", because it broke, but not from wear. It sounds like if yours crashed at 38,000 there might be a similar issue. Also, if you do decide to still go OEM (looks like you are not) make sure you get the REVISED MY02+ pressure plate. It will prevent that aweful buzz from the transmission tunnel upon engine decel.

Also, I have a set of Konig 18x7.5 rims on the car (street rims....I know they are supposed to be staggered). I was wondering if I could get a 245 on the rear without rubbing? It is running a 225 now, and it looks like I still have some room (and could possibly get more with rolling the fenders). Could I get you to shoot me a price 2 205/40/18 tires and 2 245/40/18 tires? Whatever you guys are having a special on.....these are my around town tires and rims. They currently have some crappy Wanli tires.

Thanks

John

 

I bought my Competition Stage 4 clutch for $290, not stiff at all. I figured I'd have to send it back because it would be way too hard to drive it, but it is great and it grabs...VERY HARD. PM me and I'll tell you more about it, don't want to get in trouble for advertising, I have been warned and I am watching what I say on here, thanks.

Bryan

 

thx john for the advice on cool and deadly but honda wont install the parts im getting unfortunately. and as far as the tires go the 245's should fit without any problems. when i get back to the store tuesday i will check the computer to make sure but as far as prices go, for the 245's the falkens would be 250 for the set. but we just got a huge shipment of the kuhmo's in so they are trying to push them so i will talk to my boss and find out what we can do for them.

 

Thanks Supah. Also, if you are going to be upgrading to a "grabbier" clutch, you will also want to upgrade the rear diff at the same time. Clutch slippage sometimes prevents that thing from blowing up on hard launches, and there have been reports of people blowing them completely stock....just a hard launch with no slip or wheel spin = no more diff. Check out Hardtopguy's 4.56 setup, effectively "adds" +26 rwhp.

As far as advertising goes, I initiated it, so its not like he was advertising his services. I just want him to check a price for me, no special discount pricing or anything. Same as if I would have called him on the phone.

 

okay well ive decided on the fidanza lightweight flywheel cuz of the interchangeable friction surface, and the act stage 2 pressure plate with a act street disc...that seems to be the perfect solution to the problem with enough reliability and to still drive the car everyday on these "WONDERFUL" streets of tally...

 

Sounds nice... Tell us how you like it!

 

Believe the stories about diffs going kapow. My first clutch and diff were replaced at under 8000 miles anlong with the 1st, 2nd, and 3rd gear sets and I'd never done a hard launch. I also had years of clutch driving under my belt so I guess you could say I was experienced.