If they can micro poilsh the crank you can use the bearings marked on the crank. If they have to turn it ask them how much they took off. That can be your start for figuring out your new bearings. You need to buy a set close to what you think they are and then it takes awhile to plasticgauge it to see you clearnces. Sometimes it takes a couple of sets at $16 a set to get it right.

Please feel free to call me if you have any questions. I know you can fab anything but building a motor that you want to last is a whole new ball game. The biggest things are proper bearings, cylinder to wall piston clearance, and ring gap.

Jeff 813-309-2696

 

 

plastigauge is a bearings best friend

 

Thanks guys... this really isn't the first motor we've put together though... apparently that is the consensus in the last couple of posts... lol!... just the first one to have an issue such as this. Everything was/is/and will be again, measured properly...

 

Good I can see where you put them and then decide where mine are going

 

hahaha! why do i have to be your guinee pig? what if i just let mine roll around on the passenger floorboard? eh? whatchoo gonna do then???


lol!

 

ehh, If it works it works. I will make maggie hold them in her lap

 

Update!

Well, today was interesting... first things first... i was able to talk to Joe at Locash Racing, where i got the Hondata KPro through, and since it wasn't working, i had to send it back to be checked out. Well, he got it today, and will be able to test it later tonight, and then tomorrow morning, i'll either be having my ECU sent back to me working this time, OR he'll be sending me out another ECU from his collection. Either way, i'll have a known-good S2000 KPro in my hands on Thursday.

SO.... that means that during reassembly, we'll be reinstalling the sensor wheels that the KPro needs, and that also means that this car won't be turning over until Thursday afternoon... i hate cutting these things so close.

The only nice thing about this, is it lets/forces me to relax things a bit, and just get some other stuff done...

We were waiting for my crank to come back from the machine shop, so while that was happening, i decided to go ahead and install the new oil pressure gauge. Now, i don't know where i want to put it permanantly, so for now i'm just temporarily mounting the gauges on the dash in their supplied cups, and taping them down... easy enough

Heres the new gauge setup....




I was able to get my hands on a Defi-Link setup thanks to Kevin... It is all brand new, never used, and has both the oil pressure gauge, and a fuel pressure gauge. It can of course be upgraded to include a lot of various gauges (8 total), but these two will do. I don't like a ton of gauges everywhere... i actually don't even like these two... but whatever.

Heres how i mounted the gauges...





And then of course the gauges have a really annoying and large control box that has to be mounted somewhere... so, i decided to put it in the most useless spot in the car... the glove box I only had to extend one of the sensor wires, but it fits in here quite nicely...







The gauges don't look TOO bad... and they are easily seen, but not in my way which i like... i dunno, maybe i'll get used to them.





Now... on to the install for the sensors for the gauges...

My biggest concern for the oil pressure is the galley that actually feeds the main bearings, which then feeds the rod bearings (makes sense, eh? haha!) So, the easiest spot i could see to mount the sensor seemed to be on the front cover, which has an o-ring sealed chamber that caps off the main oil galley... perfect!

So, it began with cutting out a piece of aluminum, and welding it onto the front cover... this way i could drill and tap it, and have enough surface area for a safe connection, and have plenty of threads... and before you know it, this is what i had...









Next up, was the fuel pressure sensor...







Of course by this point, the crank was back from the machine shop, and the motor had already been assembled... brand new fasteners, headgasket, etc...

Now... WHAT CAUSED ALL THIS MESS???

I still don't know. But here is what i DO know... the #1 journal was not in-round wiht the rest of the crank... WHY the machine shop did not originally catch this, i do not know... but i do know that they ground down the #1 main, the #5 main, and the #4 rod journal. Then, checked every journal on the crank, and then micro-polished every journal on the crank.

When the new bearings went in, we measured them AND plasti-gauged them (to double check everything), and all specs for every journal were right in the middle of the acceptible tolerances... so now everything on the bottom end is as perfect as it can get. The oil pump was checked out, and had no internal issues... the pressure relief valve is functioning smoothly with no interference. Every oil passage was blown out with air and solvents to make sure there was nothing in there, and no chance of anything clogging anything up. Assembly lube was of course used to reassemble everything, and all new hardware was installed (rod, main, head bolts)... this motor cannot possibly be more perfect than it is right now... LOL!

This time i have an oil pressure gauge, and should know more about what is going on inside the motor... i'm crossing my fingers, and hoping that the puzzle falls together this time, and the stars align, and this thing WORKS!

So for now... here is the motor right after we got the head bolted on, waiting for its time to be reinserted into the matrix, which will begin first thing in the morning...




Now the only other question mark will be the Hondata KPro from Locash.... by the way, Joe at Locash Racing is absolutely AWESOME to work with... If anyone is in need of any Hondata products, or needs tuning or dyno services done in the Phoenix area, give him a shout! He is helping me out to NO END with this ECU issue, and i could not be happier dealing with him! http://www.locashracing.com


So... till tomorrow!

 

that carbon fiber trunk release button is the SEX.