HELP Throttle cable not tuned correctly?
so i noticed that the lower nut on my throttle cable was loose and the cable itself was loose, and i took it down to the local mechanic. He told me the thing was loose and he tightened it up for me, without messing with the idle. Now my car is completely forked. if i am in gear and i shift into neutral and coast the car will just keep idling at 1.5k, and when i come to a stop anywhere from 800-1.1k. and it will come to a near stall when i go from a stop into first(if i drive it like i used to) . It starts out fine and then as soon as the clutch is about 20% engaged it drops from like 1.5-2k to about 800 and then the car shakes and goes back up to 1.5k. i went home to check out what the hell happened and whenever i press the gas just a tad the engine goes up from idle(1000) to 1.5-2 and then back down to like 400-500 and then back up to idle. it shakes violently. I also noticed that the cable under full throttle - GETS STUCK !!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I don't know what the distances should be between the two nuts and how much slack should be in the cable so ANYONE please help asap. i'm not taking the car to the mechanic i'd rather go to honda, but i am also not willing to drive it, because i am afraid the throttle will get stuck again
I don't know what the distances should be between the two nuts and how much slack should be in the cable so ANYONE please help asap. i'm not taking the car to the mechanic i'd rather go to honda, but i am also not willing to drive it, because i am afraid the throttle will get stuck again
Sounds like it's adjusted too tight. Maybe too loose, but I doubt it.
You want the cable adjusted so that there is no slack, but you also don't want tension on the cable (very small "sweet spot"). If you get tension on it, the throttle plate might not close all the way, creating something of an issue for the computer... it will detect throttle angle and try to do things like advance the timing.
There is a "stop" and a lock nut. Loosen both, then adjust the one furthest from the throttle body to apply (or remove) tension on the cable. When you get it to where the slack is taken up, but NOT so much to where the throttle plate moves off the stop... that's where you want to be. Tighten the other nut down.
You might also look at the other cable that goes to the cruise control box and make sure it's not binding or too tight.
You want the cable adjusted so that there is no slack, but you also don't want tension on the cable (very small "sweet spot"). If you get tension on it, the throttle plate might not close all the way, creating something of an issue for the computer... it will detect throttle angle and try to do things like advance the timing.
There is a "stop" and a lock nut. Loosen both, then adjust the one furthest from the throttle body to apply (or remove) tension on the cable. When you get it to where the slack is taken up, but NOT so much to where the throttle plate moves off the stop... that's where you want to be. Tighten the other nut down.
You might also look at the other cable that goes to the cruise control box and make sure it's not binding or too tight.
Actually, you do need a bit of slack. There should be about 1/2 inch deflection in the cable. You do more harm by keeping it tight than loose. Adjust it so you can press the cable 1/2 inch down from it's normal position if you push on it with a finger.
I think that's too much, but to each his own. I believe a 1/2" of slack would probably translate to 1/4" or so of slop in the throttle cable/pedal. This would still solve the problem here, though!
Someone with a helms could provide the exact specs for this. Please note that this 1/2" does not mean 1/2" of cable!!! It's 1/2" of deflection in the cable.
Let's say this is how the cable is at the throttle:
[__________]
Now you press on it at the middle it becomes (sort of )like:
[___ .......___]......___
.......__/.............___ D
So, Distance D that the wire moved down from it's original position should be 1/2 inch
Let's say this is how the cable is at the throttle:
[__________]
Now you press on it at the middle it becomes (sort of )like:
[___ .......___]......___
.......__/.............___ D
So, Distance D that the wire moved down from it's original position should be 1/2 inch
Originally posted by marcucci
I think that's too much, but to each his own. I believe a 1/2" of slack would probably translate to 1/4" or so of slop in the throttle cable/pedal. This would still solve the problem here, though!
I think that's too much, but to each his own. I believe a 1/2" of slack would probably translate to 1/4" or so of slop in the throttle cable/pedal. This would still solve the problem here, though!
What happens if the throttle cable is too tight but still allows the throttle plate to fully close? Will this possibly cause long term damage to the throttle cable that can result in breakage? Does it affect any other part?
It should not. The only problem is that contraction in cold weather might keep the plate from closing all the way. There is a rubber "stop" on the gas pedal that is designed to prevent overextension of the cable (absorb tension), so that isn't an issue.
I can't think of a reason... mas, why did you suggest that? All I can think of is that it isn't always easy to get it "just right."
I can't think of a reason... mas, why did you suggest that? All I can think of is that it isn't always easy to get it "just right."
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Ok, my MY2002 is just a month old. I just checked the deflection and it's around 1/2" or maybe more. This is from factory. On my 98 prelude I know the specs called for a 1/2" deflection. I played around with the deflection on the prelude and when I made is tighter I liked it for a while till I loosened it back to 1/2" and found it felt much better. I don't really know why the number 1/2" but it works for me :-) I know too tight does not make sense cause it would keep the throttle from closing all the way.
[QUOTE]Originally posted by marcucci
[B]It should not. The only problem is that contraction in cold weather might keep the plate from closing all the way. There is a rubber "stop" on the gas pedal that is designed to prevent overextension of the cable (absorb tension), so that isn't an issue.
[QUOTE]Originally posted by marcucci
[B]It should not. The only problem is that contraction in cold weather might keep the plate from closing all the way. There is a rubber "stop" on the gas pedal that is designed to prevent overextension of the cable (absorb tension), so that isn't an issue.
My '97 Prelude had about an inch play in it. I found that Honda had adjusted it too tight and the "isolator" on the end by the gas pedal had shredded, putting all that play into the cable. It turned out to be a known problem with a lot of the '97's and a few '98's.
I suppose that could be a problem with it being too tight, though I would suspect that Honda fixed the problem with a little larger "isolator" at the gas pedal end- but I haven't checked.
I suppose that could be a problem with it being too tight, though I would suspect that Honda fixed the problem with a little larger "isolator" at the gas pedal end- but I haven't checked.
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