Valve Adjustment Experience
I thought I remembered reading someone posting how the '02 s2k's are being dyno'd with 10-15 more HP because the valves are adjusted differently at the factory.
I thought I remember someone saying something like, setting one of the intake valves to the max honda tolerance and the other to the min tolerance, then set the exhaust valves to the min honda tolerance. Something about this causes a swirling effect into the combustion chamber...which add more HP.
Can someone explain this?
Has anyone tried it, if so what happened?
I thought I remember someone saying something like, setting one of the intake valves to the max honda tolerance and the other to the min tolerance, then set the exhaust valves to the min honda tolerance. Something about this causes a swirling effect into the combustion chamber...which add more HP.
Can someone explain this?
Has anyone tried it, if so what happened?
The '02 valve adjustment shouldn't be any different from any other year model. The cam lobes already have staggered lift, so adjust them as the Helm's manual describes. I noticed a VERY significant amount of power change when I adjusted them WRONG, then fixed it. If they are within spec, there shouldn't be any noticeable difference just from a .001" change.
The '02s are showing more power on the dyno probably due to the different ECU.
The '02s are showing more power on the dyno probably due to the different ECU.
I have 24k miles, and thought my idle was rough, noticed I was losing top end power, plus a friend of mine, who's a Honda veteran told me after just driving the car for a few minutes. I went to the dealer to get the valves adjusted, but the mechanic said that the MAP sensor was reading a near perfect voltage, between 88-90, which is awesome, and there would be no need for a valve adjustment.
I had my IK24s set at a large .050 inch gap, so I figured it might be that that was cutting my top end, so I shrunk down the gap to .040 inch, and although I haven't noticed any real increase in performance, since I rarely VTEC, I'm satisfied that the plugs are now in spec, and that I don't need an expensive valve adjustment.
The mechanic told me it was most likely because the motor was fully broken in, that S2000 motors get significantly louder as they age, which I didn't think was natural, but apparently it is.
I had my IK24s set at a large .050 inch gap, so I figured it might be that that was cutting my top end, so I shrunk down the gap to .040 inch, and although I haven't noticed any real increase in performance, since I rarely VTEC, I'm satisfied that the plugs are now in spec, and that I don't need an expensive valve adjustment.
The mechanic told me it was most likely because the motor was fully broken in, that S2000 motors get significantly louder as they age, which I didn't think was natural, but apparently it is.
Originally posted by DJSang
......
.......I went to the dealer to get the valves adjusted, but the mechanic said that the MAP sensor was reading a near perfect voltage, between 88-90, which is awesome, and there would be no need for a valve adjustment.
...........
......
......
.......I went to the dealer to get the valves adjusted, but the mechanic said that the MAP sensor was reading a near perfect voltage, between 88-90, which is awesome, and there would be no need for a valve adjustment.
...........
......
Originally posted by DJSang
... but the mechanic said that the MAP sensor was reading a near perfect voltage, between 88-90, which is awesome, and there would be no need for a valve adjustment.
... but the mechanic said that the MAP sensor was reading a near perfect voltage, between 88-90, which is awesome, and there would be no need for a valve adjustment.
Trending Topics
Well I adjusted my valves tonight. Wasn't too bad, I'll say maybe 5 or 6 were out by no more than .001", some tighter, some looser. Compared to previous Hondas:
Easier:
No "hondabond" required , the gasket meets one plane (typically a liquid gasket is required around camshaft humps)
The crankshaft pulley bolt is easy to get to. Rotate it clockwise.
Harder:
You need to custom-bend your own set of angled feeler gages.
You can't see the valve gap, you have to fumble for it.
The fuel rail wires and heat shield get in the way. of adjusting.
The valve cover is hard to get off and put back on, mainly because of the stuff and the back of the hood. I had to temporarily remove TDC sensor #1 from the valve cover.
Anyway, if I was to do it over, I'd just wait until 30,000 for the first adjustment. But I wanted to see those beautiful camshafts
Thanks for your votes!
Easier:
No "hondabond" required , the gasket meets one plane (typically a liquid gasket is required around camshaft humps)
The crankshaft pulley bolt is easy to get to. Rotate it clockwise.
Harder:
You need to custom-bend your own set of angled feeler gages.
You can't see the valve gap, you have to fumble for it.
The fuel rail wires and heat shield get in the way. of adjusting.
The valve cover is hard to get off and put back on, mainly because of the stuff and the back of the hood. I had to temporarily remove TDC sensor #1 from the valve cover.
Anyway, if I was to do it over, I'd just wait until 30,000 for the first adjustment. But I wanted to see those beautiful camshafts

Thanks for your votes!
Originally posted by Destiny2002
You can't see the valve gap, you have to fumble for it.
You can't see the valve gap, you have to fumble for it.




