New member - Old Man
Ok, I have another question. IS the 2004+ years cars that much better and worth the extra price? If so why?
Do some research before jumping into a S2000 they are not all alike. Honda made improvements every two years.
2004 improvements.
2006 improvements.
-- Chuck
So much for hold your fire. 
The can of worms is opened.
Ap2 2006 and later have a significant tendency to burn valves which is a major issue especially when you are buying higher mileage cars. Many unsuspecting folks have paid the price. Get a compression test if you are buying a DBW S2k with any miles and adjust the valves frequently. The notion that you have to drive around at 9000 k in an ap1 is incorrect and a significant exaggeration. If you are looking for a high torque experience, buy a Mustang or a Vette. Many ap2 owners who are familiar with ap1 performance quickly conclude that that the heavy flywheel and clutch delay valve in the ap2 hurts performance and swap them out, at great expense, to the lighter ap1 flywheel and ap1 parts without the annoying clutch delay valve.. Lower redline on the ap2 cars adds a small amount of torque at lower rpms at the expense of the thrilling 9k red line of the ap1.
My take - in my personal opinion - is that that Honda made some changes that are fairly described as improvements, but that they also made a number of changes that were marketed as improvements, but that softened the car generally, and for me not in a good way. I prefer the ap1. But, either car is a terrific car and you can't go wrong buying a good solid S2k, ap1 or ap2.
One other thing I will say, if you drive on the street, (as opposed to track and autocross), beware the voices of track car folks singing the praises of various performance modifications designed to pull every inch of performance out of the car for faster lap times. You will go down a lot of rabbit holes trying to keep up with all of that and for what? As a joyful street roadster the s2k, ap1 or ap2, is just fine as is. No need to make tons of modifications if you are driving on the street. Also, many of the modifications that folks do for the track are completely unnecessary on the street and they often reduce the reliability of the car which is what a lot of street drivers are looking for. One humble street driver's opinion.

The can of worms is opened.
Ap2 2006 and later have a significant tendency to burn valves which is a major issue especially when you are buying higher mileage cars. Many unsuspecting folks have paid the price. Get a compression test if you are buying a DBW S2k with any miles and adjust the valves frequently. The notion that you have to drive around at 9000 k in an ap1 is incorrect and a significant exaggeration. If you are looking for a high torque experience, buy a Mustang or a Vette. Many ap2 owners who are familiar with ap1 performance quickly conclude that that the heavy flywheel and clutch delay valve in the ap2 hurts performance and swap them out, at great expense, to the lighter ap1 flywheel and ap1 parts without the annoying clutch delay valve.. Lower redline on the ap2 cars adds a small amount of torque at lower rpms at the expense of the thrilling 9k red line of the ap1.
My take - in my personal opinion - is that that Honda made some changes that are fairly described as improvements, but that they also made a number of changes that were marketed as improvements, but that softened the car generally, and for me not in a good way. I prefer the ap1. But, either car is a terrific car and you can't go wrong buying a good solid S2k, ap1 or ap2.
One other thing I will say, if you drive on the street, (as opposed to track and autocross), beware the voices of track car folks singing the praises of various performance modifications designed to pull every inch of performance out of the car for faster lap times. You will go down a lot of rabbit holes trying to keep up with all of that and for what? As a joyful street roadster the s2k, ap1 or ap2, is just fine as is. No need to make tons of modifications if you are driving on the street. Also, many of the modifications that folks do for the track are completely unnecessary on the street and they often reduce the reliability of the car which is what a lot of street drivers are looking for. One humble street driver's opinion.

Last edited by rpg51; Jun 22, 2020 at 03:09 AM.
The deal for the 2002 fell through. I'm now looking at a 2004 blue S2000. It spent the first 4 years in HI. What should I look at that would be a deal breaker? 111K miles and he only wants 11,000. Sound almost to good to be true.
Thanks, Earl
Thanks, Earl
Worth a look -- and the 2004 has a page and a half of Honda tweaks and improvements over the 2002. Again just about any year car will be a fun car.
Perhaps the seller is looking at Kelley Blue Book "values" where this car $9000 (Fair) to $11,000 (Very Good) in my Zipcode? (For some reason Kelley LeBrock showed up #2 Google search when I typed Kelley.
)
The usual caveats regarding engine compression, prior damage, and rust apply (years in an sea front environment). Expect prior damage, bad paint, torn roof and seats, and crappy tires. And be happy if surprised.
Local I hope?
-- Chuck
Perhaps the seller is looking at Kelley Blue Book "values" where this car $9000 (Fair) to $11,000 (Very Good) in my Zipcode? (For some reason Kelley LeBrock showed up #2 Google search when I typed Kelley.
)The usual caveats regarding engine compression, prior damage, and rust apply (years in an sea front environment). Expect prior damage, bad paint, torn roof and seats, and crappy tires. And be happy if surprised.
Local I hope?
-- Chuck
Hi Chuck S. The 2004 spent the first 4 years in Hawaii and the next 6 years in Laurel MD. The car is eight hours from me (nothing is close to here) so I asked for the car to be put on a rack and pictures take and sent to me of the undercarriage. So far no pictures so I might have to keep looking. In these parts 11k is a good price for a 2004.
Thanks for the response, Earl
Thanks for the response, Earl
Photos of the suspension and brakes will show the extent of rust. Likewise photos of the engine compartment. Things like rusty radiator supports and VTEC solenoid cover are also indicators.
-- Chuck
-- Chuck
Hi Earl. I have purchased two S2ks in my life. Both were private sales. Like you, I purchased my current car with the idea that it would take me through to the end. I bought the car sight unseen. But, I only did that because I sized up the seller and concluded for a variety of reasons that he was 100% trustworthy. Also, the car had very low mileage (16K), the service history was documented, it was a one owner car, and I had nice clear pictures of the entire car inside and out. Plus, the owner was all grown up, and he had made zero mods to the car. Personally, I don't think I would plunk down a big chunk of money for a car sight unseen unless I had very good pictures, believable answers for any questions, and 100% trust in the owner as a straight shooter. The information you have shared about this 04 is not enough to set my mind at ease. I would need a lot more information about the history of the car and the current condition of the car. It might be great, we just don't know enough to tell. A car fax report can be useful. Frankly, if I were considering a car with high mileage, I doubt I would ever buy sight unseen. Maybe, but probably not.
Some of the information I would want would be whether there is any accident history, are all the body vin tags present, has it had any repairs, any modifications, I would want clear pictures inside and out including the undercarriage and the engine bay, are there any repairs needed now, etc., etc. Take a look at the Bring A Trailer web site, and you will see the kind of documentation I am thinking about. You might not find the car for you there - I am not suggesting that, but it will show you the extent of the information needed for me when buying sight unseen.
Where are you looking for cars? What area of the country are you from? Where have you been looking to find cars?
Some of the information I would want would be whether there is any accident history, are all the body vin tags present, has it had any repairs, any modifications, I would want clear pictures inside and out including the undercarriage and the engine bay, are there any repairs needed now, etc., etc. Take a look at the Bring A Trailer web site, and you will see the kind of documentation I am thinking about. You might not find the car for you there - I am not suggesting that, but it will show you the extent of the information needed for me when buying sight unseen.
Where are you looking for cars? What area of the country are you from? Where have you been looking to find cars?
Last edited by rpg51; Jun 25, 2020 at 01:57 AM.
Hi Earl. I have purchased two S2ks in my life. Both were private sales. Like you, I purchased my current car with the idea that it would take me through to the end. I bought the car sight unseen. But, I only did that because I sized up the seller and concluded for a variety of reasons that he was 100% trustworthy. Also, the car had very low mileage (16K), the service history was documented, it was a one owner car, and I had nice clear pictures of the entire car inside and out. Plus, the owner was all grown up, and he had made zero mods to the car. Personally, I don't think I would plunk down a big chunk of money for a car sight unseen unless I had very good pictures, believable answers for any questions, and 100% trust in the owner as a straight shooter. The information you have shared about this 04 is not enough to set my mind at ease. I would need a lot more information about the history of the car and the current condition of the car. It might be great, we just don't know enough to tell. A car fax report can be useful. Frankly, if I were considering a car with high mileage, I doubt I would ever buy sight unseen. Maybe, but probably not.
Some of the information I would want would be whether there is any accident history, are all the body vin tags present, has it had any repairs, any modifications, I would want clear pictures inside and out including the undercarriage and the engine bay, are there any repairs needed now, etc., etc. Take a look at the Bring A Trailer web site, and you will see the kind of documentation I am thinking about. You might not find the car for you there - I am not suggesting that, but it will show you the extent of the information needed for me when buying sight unseen.
Where are you looking for cars? What area of the country are you from? Where have you been looking to find cars?
Some of the information I would want would be whether there is any accident history, are all the body vin tags present, has it had any repairs, any modifications, I would want clear pictures inside and out including the undercarriage and the engine bay, are there any repairs needed now, etc., etc. Take a look at the Bring A Trailer web site, and you will see the kind of documentation I am thinking about. You might not find the car for you there - I am not suggesting that, but it will show you the extent of the information needed for me when buying sight unseen.
Where are you looking for cars? What area of the country are you from? Where have you been looking to find cars?








