im looking at a set of individual throttle bodies right now and im just wondering what kind of tuning is involved with these. also what hp and tq gains will i see with basic bolt ons ie exhaust, header.

 

ITBs are said to be pretty much the hardest things to tune as far as a s2k is concerned because you have to get ride of the idle air control valve (so until the engine is warmed up, its tuning hell).

Most gains I've seen thus far is 15-20rwhp midrange, not to much top end or low end.

 

Perhaps wildcardtrd will chime in and give you details on his install + tune.

Here is his post after he finished the install:

https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.ph...ic=436322&st=0

 

I always chime in, just usually a little later than Robert ^^^ posts my original thread

My cold start issues are solved w/o the idle air control valve. Some creative AFR and timing tuning of the starting and low rpm idle fuel and timing cells, as well as increasing the fuel pump prime duration, solved my problem.

dyno plots of the ITB's gains OVER just the ECU are in my sig.

ITB's are a pain in the ass to get setup properly, but once they are, they f'ing rule!!

 

yuppp.

If your interested in getting ITBs, let me know. I can get a pretty good deal on either Jenveys or TWMs.

 

Whats average cost of itb's? I'm guessing AEM standalone is a must with itb's also.

 

ITB's range from $1700 for TWM's up to $3600 for Toda's. You'll need an adjustable fuel pressure regulator (non-honda, since we can't re-use the stock fuel rail, and an AEM EMS is mandatory. You'll also spend about $150 in miscellaneous hoses and fittings.

Install and tune prices vary greatly, as well.

 

you can intigrate the IACV into the vaccuum lines of the ITB's

 

^^^Yea, good luck with that. The stock valve has 2 rectangular ports on the backside. You'll have to make a plate that blocks one of those ports, and thread that port with a fitting to plumb into your vacuum block. Then, you'll have to take the vacuum line from the new fitting on the back of the valve, and plumb it into the middle of your vacuum block, so the bypass idle air is evenly distributed as much as possible...then you need to tweak the IAC valve compensation properties in the AEM...a difficult task, since you'll only get a minute, at best, to get it right, before the engine is warmed up and you can't check your changes to the valve anymore.
It's much, much easier to forget about that valve entirely, and focus your tuning efforts on the low rpm cells on your maps.

I wasted 3 weeks of morning startups screwing with that valve, and never really made any headway. One week of playing with the maps, however, completely cured my cold start issues.

 

I heard with the AEM cold start is problem like it takes a few cranks for it to start. The thing i like about itb's is the fact midrange gets a nice punch.