I just bought a Japanese ECU with the last 3 letters/digits on the part number being J01.

I bought this for 2 reasons.

1. To see if theres any fuel maps/timing differences between and 00 American ECU and an 00 Japanese ECU since no one has done it before. I'll use a dyno for results and swap ECUs right on the dyno and give it about 10 minutes to rebuild its maps for each ECU. If you didn't know, Japanese F20c engines produce 250 crank hp over our 240 crank hp American engines.. This is mostly due to the .7 increase in compression, but I want to see if the ECU has any play. I'll run 93 octane with a bottle of STP octane booster.

2. I race others when I shouldn't. I've been alot better at turning down races, but I still do it. Its limited to 112mph with the Japanese ECU. I figured it'll be a start to helping me slow down and stop my problem. No, I don't usually go that fast, but I have a few times.

Any thoughts on what I should expect? I should get the ECU within a week and I'll try to dyno the American vs Japanese within a month.

Also, theres no immobilizer on Japanese ECUs so I won't need to go to the dealership to have my keys reprogrammed.

 

Been discussed before not only does compression take part, the fact that they get higher Octane gasoline gives them more hp. Don't know how much you spent on the ECU but it's a waste on time and money. The Mugen ECU gives more midrange and is bascially a reprogrammed Japanese ECU.

 

[QUOTE=turbo_pwr,Aug 8 2008, 06:52 AM] Been discussed before not only does compression take part, the fact that they get higher Octane gasoline gives them more hp.

 

[QUOTE=D1sclaimer,Aug 8 2008, 11:43 AM] They calculate their octane differently in Japan.

 

I've seen a test that suggests a lot of the "91" octane gas at top tier gas stations in California is actually still 92. It could be they lowered the marketed rating so that there was no chance of the getting in trouble if a batch was lower, or if a Chevron for instance had to buy wholesale gas because a refinery was down or something like that.

One thing you should consider is that "octane boost" is really not effective at giving you more power because the boosters have less energy content. What this means is that pulling a little timing to stop knocking will give you more power than running more timing and using the boost. You need to mix in some real race gas to get a good result.

 

!!!!

Type in JDM ECU and read plenty of threads discussing what the difference is, like I said your money you are welcome to waste it how you wish. The car's been around for nearly 10 years do you seriously think something as simple as this has never been discussed or experimented with?

 

Since its been discussed alot and sooo easy to find, find me a dyno comparsion. All I could find is British people trying to pass SVA tests and other pointless stuff like the speed limiter. Im obviously a noob when it comes to searching. Please enlighten me with your awesomeness in searching skills.

Thanks in advance!!!

 

Bump I would like a dyno comparison turbo_pwr.... or did you FAIL.

 

[QUOTE=carrera4,Aug 9 2008, 05:47 PM] I've seen a test that suggests a lot of the "91" octane gas at top tier gas stations in California is actually still 92.

 

Very interesting, thanks.