want an estimate on my build
I was wondering if any one could give a HP number on what my possible build woud put to the wheels. Well here it is.
Invidia cat-back,Invidia test pipe, Invidia Header, Soon head gasket, Toda ITBs, Toda spec A2 cams, Toda valve springs, Frerra valves (stock size) and retainers, Toda flywheel, Hondata K-Pro piggy back.
Fell free to give any advise I really want to put about 250HP down
Invidia cat-back,Invidia test pipe, Invidia Header, Soon head gasket, Toda ITBs, Toda spec A2 cams, Toda valve springs, Frerra valves (stock size) and retainers, Toda flywheel, Hondata K-Pro piggy back.
Fell free to give any advise I really want to put about 250HP down
That won't get you 250 WHP.
TODA ITBs (or better Jenvey)
Hytech long header (replaces cat)
Hytech Stage II cams and their recommended springs, retainers and bases or if you want cheaper ENDYN springs and retainers (will save you ~$700)
TODA cam gears
Any 70mm single
You can still do the head gasket but you need to ask about valve clearance with the cams. Hytech should be able to tell you if its ok.
That should get you there pretty easy.
TODA ITBs (or better Jenvey)
Hytech long header (replaces cat)
Hytech Stage II cams and their recommended springs, retainers and bases or if you want cheaper ENDYN springs and retainers (will save you ~$700)
TODA cam gears
Any 70mm single
You can still do the head gasket but you need to ask about valve clearance with the cams. Hytech should be able to tell you if its ok.
That should get you there pretty easy.
And Hondata doesn't make a piggy-back for our car...you have to replace the stock ecu with an RSX ecu and swap several sensors on the car with RSX sensors to fool the ecu into thinking it is still in an RSX.
You would need an AEM EMS stand-alone more than likely, or if you must have a piggy-back, the VAFC is probably the most cost effective purchase.
You would need an AEM EMS stand-alone more than likely, or if you must have a piggy-back, the VAFC is probably the most cost effective purchase.
K-Pro is stand-alone in its tuning abilities, but yes, you do have to replace stuff. A VAFC would not suffice for tuning the ITB's. I'm guessing fuel delivery would be another concern: pump, injectors.
And OP, 250 is possible with your list. You just need to drive to the LA area where they have magical dynos.
And OP, 250 is possible with your list. You just need to drive to the LA area where they have magical dynos.
OP, why do you want 250whp? Just to have the dyno sheet for car shows? 250 whp does not make your car fast. The gears you have help make you quicker. Shedding weight makes your car work easier/handle better.
Instead of the Invidia stuff(of which I love the sound- so does my wife), a lightweight single exhaust would serve two purposes. As carrera mentioned, the flow of exhaust gases would be better/more efficient. The second benefit would be the weight savings. Yes, the Invidia saves almost 30lbs, but my T1R 70RT is a total of 9lbs from header back. I bought it used for a little more than you spent on the Invidia and testpipe assuming you bought them new.
Don't get hung up on numbers. They really don't mean squat in the real world unless we're talking about 40hp or more difference.
Instead of the Invidia stuff(of which I love the sound- so does my wife), a lightweight single exhaust would serve two purposes. As carrera mentioned, the flow of exhaust gases would be better/more efficient. The second benefit would be the weight savings. Yes, the Invidia saves almost 30lbs, but my T1R 70RT is a total of 9lbs from header back. I bought it used for a little more than you spent on the Invidia and testpipe assuming you bought them new.
Don't get hung up on numbers. They really don't mean squat in the real world unless we're talking about 40hp or more difference.
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Stealth Operator
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