2011 Track Junkie Thread
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 17,218
Likes: 753
From: B'More Hon!
Hey guys,
I had a quick question about lowering height I'll be lowering on my KW clubsports, and don't want to hit the point of diminishing return/performance for the track/autox. I was thinking that 1.1-1.25 inch drop would be the max that I would go. The clubsports can start at a .9 inch drop and go to 2.1 inches. I would never go as low as 2.1 as the car needs to be driven in Baltimore and i feel it would be detrimental on the track too
My fenders will be rolled with 18" OZ ultraleggeras (235 up front and 255 in rear). The car will also be corner balanced.
I asked Skip, but he missed my response on facebook regarding how i'm lowering the car
no worries though 
Thanks so much guys.
-Steve
I had a quick question about lowering height I'll be lowering on my KW clubsports, and don't want to hit the point of diminishing return/performance for the track/autox. I was thinking that 1.1-1.25 inch drop would be the max that I would go. The clubsports can start at a .9 inch drop and go to 2.1 inches. I would never go as low as 2.1 as the car needs to be driven in Baltimore and i feel it would be detrimental on the track too
My fenders will be rolled with 18" OZ ultraleggeras (235 up front and 255 in rear). The car will also be corner balanced.
I asked Skip, but he missed my response on facebook regarding how i'm lowering the car
no worries though Thanks so much guys.
-Steve
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 17,218
Likes: 753
From: B'More Hon!
Here's a how-to on building an S2000 race car based on my experience over the last few months:
http://robrobinette.com/S2000RaceCar.htm
http://robrobinette.com/S2000RaceCar.htm
basically my homepage
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 6,337
Likes: 1
From: Gods Speed #57 Lemons #77
Hey guys,
I had a quick question about lowering height I'll be lowering on my KW clubsports, and don't want to hit the point of diminishing return/performance for the track/autox. I was thinking that 1.1-1.25 inch drop would be the max that I would go. The clubsports can start at a .9 inch drop and go to 2.1 inches. I would never go as low as 2.1 as the car needs to be driven in Baltimore and i feel it would be detrimental on the track too
My fenders will be rolled with 18" OZ ultraleggeras (235 up front and 255 in rear). The car will also be corner balanced.
I asked Skip, but he missed my response on facebook regarding how i'm lowering the car no worries though
Thanks so much guys.
-Steve
I had a quick question about lowering height I'll be lowering on my KW clubsports, and don't want to hit the point of diminishing return/performance for the track/autox. I was thinking that 1.1-1.25 inch drop would be the max that I would go. The clubsports can start at a .9 inch drop and go to 2.1 inches. I would never go as low as 2.1 as the car needs to be driven in Baltimore and i feel it would be detrimental on the track too
My fenders will be rolled with 18" OZ ultraleggeras (235 up front and 255 in rear). The car will also be corner balanced.
I asked Skip, but he missed my response on facebook regarding how i'm lowering the car
no worries though Thanks so much guys.
-Steve
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 17,218
Likes: 753
From: B'More Hon!
Originally Posted by Gilly_S2KFreak' timestamp='1301511940' post='20412564
Hey guys,
I had a quick question about lowering height I'll be lowering on my KW clubsports, and don't want to hit the point of diminishing return/performance for the track/autox. I was thinking that 1.1-1.25 inch drop would be the max that I would go. The clubsports can start at a .9 inch drop and go to 2.1 inches. I would never go as low as 2.1 as the car needs to be driven in Baltimore and i feel it would be detrimental on the track too
My fenders will be rolled with 18" OZ ultraleggeras (235 up front and 255 in rear). The car will also be corner balanced.
I asked Skip, but he missed my response on facebook regarding how i'm lowering the car no worries though
Thanks so much guys.
-Steve
I had a quick question about lowering height I'll be lowering on my KW clubsports, and don't want to hit the point of diminishing return/performance for the track/autox. I was thinking that 1.1-1.25 inch drop would be the max that I would go. The clubsports can start at a .9 inch drop and go to 2.1 inches. I would never go as low as 2.1 as the car needs to be driven in Baltimore and i feel it would be detrimental on the track too
My fenders will be rolled with 18" OZ ultraleggeras (235 up front and 255 in rear). The car will also be corner balanced.
I asked Skip, but he missed my response on facebook regarding how i'm lowering the car
no worries though Thanks so much guys.
-Steve
Thanks!! I told the shop to start it at 1.25" drop from stock (26.4" and 26.6" front and rear ground to wheel arch). this was withing my range of thinking, and they are wrapping up my car, so i made my decision based on your response heheBest
Steve
edit: had second thoughts... i'm currently 1.8-2" drops with the springs i have.. and i don't think i'd have rubbing issues with those. So i said 1.5" to start before the corner balance.
EDIT AGAIN!:
fender roller may not be able to do anything with out severely cracking the paint. I forgot i had work done on the passenger quarter panel this depressed me a lot. 
final update: I can get the rear rolled, driver side rear got rolled pretty well supposidly, and passaner (where it was cracking real badly) was finessed a little more to get a decent roll out of it. i'm hoping i will not rub up front as i did with my old rims
Former Moderator
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 4,634
Likes: 28
From: West Virginia
I would recommend between 1 to 1.5 inches. I think I'm at 1.2 lower than stock.
I would also recommend you relocate the fender mounting tab at the rear of the rear fender wells. You remove the fastener and move an inch or so further rear, then grind away the tab to make more clearance for the tire. You'll need to do this to run 255's on wheels with less than an offset of 63. If the outside edge of your rear tires get rubbed it's this tab doing the rubbing.
I would also recommend you relocate the fender mounting tab at the rear of the rear fender wells. You remove the fastener and move an inch or so further rear, then grind away the tab to make more clearance for the tire. You'll need to do this to run 255's on wheels with less than an offset of 63. If the outside edge of your rear tires get rubbed it's this tab doing the rubbing.
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 17,218
Likes: 753
From: B'More Hon!
Thanks Rob! i'll give the shop a call tomorrow and see if i can't stop by there to discuss things with them. I knew i had to relocate the tabs at some point, was hoping I could do this two weekends from today. I'm worried about the fronts honestly.
I think in order to get the rears rolled all the way i'll need to get the quarters repainted.
:sigh: this got a lot more complicated than i wanted to to be and i'm starting to get discourage.
sorry all, back to track related stuffs.
I think in order to get the rears rolled all the way i'll need to get the quarters repainted.
:sigh: this got a lot more complicated than i wanted to to be and i'm starting to get discourage.
sorry all, back to track related stuffs.
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 1,355
Likes: 0
This is how I feel. My car hasn't had a front bumper on it in months because I need to mount all the turbo parts and I have been pulling it in and out of the shop I work at before and after each work day. Waiting on money/parts and it is really getting depressing. I am not sure if I will get on track at all this year. The timeline keeps getting pushed further back.
We need a magic wand.
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 407
Likes: 1
From: Bay Area
Originally Posted by skapur' timestamp='1301497948' post='20411541
...
With a non staggered setup, OEM sway bars and nearly equal spring rates, you will probably have more oversteer than understeer (unless you set the front adjustments very stiff and leave the rear very soft). The GTC 200 will greatly help rear traction at speeds greater than 60 mph but not do much at lower speeds. I think those rates will be alright once you get a wing on the back.
I run 255 all around, have KW CS (571F/571R) and GTC200 and the balance is very nice but I am also running a Comptech adj swaybar in front set full stiff.
Sheel,
Those spring rates look good and that's about what I'd put on the car with AST coilovers. The extra rate up front will help compensate for the stock sway bar but you may have to upgrade the FSB anyway to get the handling balance you want.
You definitely need to add more camber up front. Take a look at J's racing lower ball joints. They will add negative camber but won't cost you any points with NASA like the adjustable SPCs. I've never actually heard of anyone actually "adjusting" the ball joints back and forth, we just set the SPCs to full in (max neg camber) and use the stock adjusters to set what we want. Do not judge the handling of your car with the AST coilovers until you set the front camber to -2 to -3.5 (depending how much you drive the car on the street).
Those spring rates look good and that's about what I'd put on the car with AST coilovers. The extra rate up front will help compensate for the stock sway bar but you may have to upgrade the FSB anyway to get the handling balance you want.
You definitely need to add more camber up front. Take a look at J's racing lower ball joints. They will add negative camber but won't cost you any points with NASA like the adjustable SPCs. I've never actually heard of anyone actually "adjusting" the ball joints back and forth, we just set the SPCs to full in (max neg camber) and use the stock adjusters to set what we want. Do not judge the handling of your car with the AST coilovers until you set the front camber to -2 to -3.5 (depending how much you drive the car on the street).
I assume you mean because of the suspension upgrade?... since i'm still in the learning process, i'm ok right now w/o aero and can definitely tell where it'll help me out
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 6,337
Likes: 1
From: Gods Speed #57 Lemons #77
Originally Posted by TubeDriver' timestamp='1301498701' post='20411602
[quote name='skapur' timestamp='1301497948' post='20411541']
...
...
With a non staggered setup, OEM sway bars and nearly equal spring rates, you will probably have more oversteer than understeer (unless you set the front adjustments very stiff and leave the rear very soft). The GTC 200 will greatly help rear traction at speeds greater than 60 mph but not do much at lower speeds. I think those rates will be alright once you get a wing on the back.
I run 255 all around, have KW CS (571F/571R) and GTC200 and the balance is very nice but I am also running a Comptech adj swaybar in front set full stiff.
The OEM setup is a compromise setup designed for street drivers on the street with street tires etc. Not all that much fun on the track IMHO (but it certainly can be done).
Going to 255 all around with decent coilovers/alignment is going to feel like a different car on the track but an S2000 without aero in the back is not all that much fun (not confidence inspiring).
If you are trying to gradually find the limits (both your ability and your vehicle), you might really benefit from doing some autoXs in addition to track time.
Sounds good - thanks for the input... what's not clear to me, is that OEM configuration has the rear spring rate stiffer than the front... for the s2000, people seem to upgrade their spring rates, but have a softer rear than front... is that to dial out oversteer and make it a bit more numb?
Sheel,
Those spring rates look good and that's about what I'd put on the car with AST coilovers. The extra rate up front will help compensate for the stock sway bar but you may have to upgrade the FSB anyway to get the handling balance you want.
You definitely need to add more camber up front. Take a look at J's racing lower ball joints. They will add negative camber but won't cost you any points with NASA like the adjustable SPCs. I've never actually heard of anyone actually "adjusting" the ball joints back and forth, we just set the SPCs to full in (max neg camber) and use the stock adjusters to set what we want. Do not judge the handling of your car with the AST coilovers until you set the front camber to -2 to -3.5 (depending how much you drive the car on the street).
Those spring rates look good and that's about what I'd put on the car with AST coilovers. The extra rate up front will help compensate for the stock sway bar but you may have to upgrade the FSB anyway to get the handling balance you want.
You definitely need to add more camber up front. Take a look at J's racing lower ball joints. They will add negative camber but won't cost you any points with NASA like the adjustable SPCs. I've never actually heard of anyone actually "adjusting" the ball joints back and forth, we just set the SPCs to full in (max neg camber) and use the stock adjusters to set what we want. Do not judge the handling of your car with the AST coilovers until you set the front camber to -2 to -3.5 (depending how much you drive the car on the street).
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