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2012 Track Junkie Thread

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Old Apr 5, 2012 | 04:10 AM
  #761  
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Need help!

I got the car back yesterday afternoon from Rusty and happy to report that all body panels are tight now. Yesterday all the new brake parts arrived. Thanks Pete for a great tip about partsgeek, $205 for 4 rotors and Akebono pads with shipping .

I need help just for a good company actually for I can do all the brake/clutch fluid flushing (thanks Harbor Freight), rotors and pads changes. It just makes it so much more fun to do all these with somebody who knows what I'm doing cuz I may not.

Oh, and now everything is tight there is a new clunking sound from underneath the car during a very low speed run and on rough roads and turns, mostly from right side. I'm thinking, it's the after market supensions, or the Gendron end links but a good set of different ears will definitely narrow it down. Exhaust is not rubbing or hitting BTW.

My place or your place or Quantico hobby shop on Saturday morning. Any volunteer? I promised a good Filipino meal and a fun company (me ).

Thanks in advance folks.
Old Apr 5, 2012 | 05:22 AM
  #762  
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Originally Posted by dc_s2k
Looks great!
Old Apr 5, 2012 | 07:56 AM
  #763  
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Hey Ron! I would love to come up but my gf birthday is this weekend... I am always not there for her during weekends because of working on cars and stuff, so if I'll do the same for her bday weekend I'm pretty sure she'll be upset.

BTW, if you going to have the car up on the lift in the shop, check all of the suspension bolts. It is relatively easy and might direct you to the source of the noise.
Old Apr 5, 2012 | 07:57 AM
  #764  
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Originally Posted by robrob
Another question, is there a specific way to drill holes for the HANS device? Or should there be existion ones.
Some of the newer SA rated helmets have pre-drilled holes. The HANS device instructions should have directions for locating the holes and the size should be just large enough to squeeze the fastener into. A normal drill and bit is fine for the job. The hardware needs to have safety markings though to distinguish it from generic stuff (new requirement last year).
Thanks Rob, I'll look up HANS instructions.
Old Apr 5, 2012 | 09:41 AM
  #765  
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Originally Posted by Olegator
Hey Ron! I would love to come up but my gf birthday is this weekend... I am always not there for her during weekends because of working on cars and stuff, so if I'll do the same for her bday weekend I'm pretty sure she'll be upset.

BTW, if you going to have the car up on the lift in the shop, check all of the suspension bolts. It is relatively easy and might direct you to the source of the noise.
Cool man. I know you would come and help if you can. Looks like me and your GF are born on the same day or in the same week.

Thanks for the tip.
Old Apr 5, 2012 | 01:18 PM
  #766  
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Originally Posted by Uncoolron
I need help just for a good company actually for I can do all the brake/clutch fluid flushing (thanks Harbor Freight), rotors and pads changes. It just makes it so much more fun to do all these with somebody who knows what I'm doing cuz I may not.
Ron, I'll be in Woodbridge at my parent's garage next weekend. Paintball with Church Saturday and Easter Sunday this weekend...
Old Apr 5, 2012 | 04:11 PM
  #767  
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Originally Posted by e3opian
Originally Posted by Uncoolron' timestamp='1333627851' post='21578233
I need help just for a good company actually for I can do all the brake/clutch fluid flushing (thanks Harbor Freight), rotors and pads changes. It just makes it so much more fun to do all these with somebody who knows what I'm doing cuz I may not.
Ron, I'll be in Woodbridge at my parent's garage next weekend. Paintball with Church Saturday and Easter Sunday this weekend...
Awesome, Aaron. Thanks for the invite. I might hit you up next weekend.
Old Apr 5, 2012 | 05:02 PM
  #768  
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Originally Posted by metros
^^^A 200* thermostat would barely ever open on a mildly modified f20/f22. Even with the ptuning turbo kit pushing it hard on track for 20-25 minutes I was getting peak temperatures of 230*. On the street my temperatures always stayed around 200-205.

Also, I'm with Matt on Setrab oil coolers. They're not overly expensive and they're great quality.
That's good news. I didnt realize that.
Old Apr 5, 2012 | 07:27 PM
  #769  
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Ron, to check your end links you can smack them with a rubber mallet and a bad one will clunk. Hit them in the same direction as the sway bar end moves.
Old Apr 6, 2012 | 03:12 AM
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^^^Thanks for the tip, Rob. I'll do that for sure. I decided to go Quantico hobby shop tomorrow morning. Hopefully I get everything done by noon to have some time for a cruise.



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