Originally Posted by nightcrawler7188,Oct 28 2009, 10:11 AM

i've never heard of walbros giving inaccurate readings. i have a walbro as well. the gas gauge in its stock form is inaccurate enough and didn't notice any difference.

changing the fuel pump wouldn't even make a difference anyway. the pump is a plug and play device, which (i'm pretty sure) is isolated from the gauge sensor. the sensor that outputs to the gas gauge must be the culprit. it's a plastic that floats on top of the gas, attached to a lever that contacts a circuit. the circuit is contacted at a point corresponding to the height of the gas in the tank.

Originally Posted by vbb,Oct 28 2009, 10:27 AM

Well, there is clearly some disconnect between the sensor telling me how much gas I have left and the gauge in my dash. It has no problems reading full... but it doesn't seem to read empty past 4 bars.

The problem is, it's not something I am experienced enough to just look at the fuel pump (or float) and tell if something is off. In fact, I'm not exactly sure what the stock fuel pump looks like so that I can tell if mine is aftermarket or not. The only way that I know of it tell if I'm getting a faulty reading on my dash is to let the car run all the way down to 4 bars, and then see how long it stays there. The only problem with that is I don't want to run out of gas again. I guess I could keep an emergency can in my trunk, but that's not really desirable.

I don't think anyone is suggesting the fuel pump itself is defective... the car runs great as long as there is gas in it, lol. It seems pretty obvious that the float does not "know" when I'm below 4 bars. Maybe something is getting hung up. Do you know of a way I can adjust that?

Originally Posted by DownShift2Drift,Oct 28 2009, 09:30 AM

I don't know if it's car specific or not with the EMS but I have quite a few friends running them in different cars and none of them have gas gauge issues...as far as temp gauges go...why not just install an aftermarket nice autometer gauge and call it a day?

I have a Halthech standalone wired in the S13 and it had the same issue with water temp so I just installed another aftermarket gauge from Defi (actually 2...one on return hose and one on feed hose so I can see the difference and know exactly when the thermostat opens...it's pretty fascinating)

Originally Posted by HMFIC,Oct 28 2009, 09:36 AM

just take out the pump assembly.. you will clearly see the filter and the floater going up and down.. if it doesnt clear the filter, thats most likely your issue..

Originally Posted by vbb,Oct 28 2009, 10:44 AM

Thanks again.

Originally Posted by nightcrawler7188,Oct 28 2009, 11:58 AM

yea what i was suggesting from my previous post was that you just take out the assembly and give it a look. you don't have to really fully understand how it works in order to diagnose a problem. if the floater isn't moving freely along its full range of normal motion, then it's a physical issue that you should be able to solve with some common sense. if it's moving freely then you know it's an electronic issue, possibly with some of the contacts.

Originally Posted by DanZilla,Oct 28 2009, 12:39 PM

I don't understand this thread. I feel sooooo slow trying to read this thread

Originally Posted by HMFIC,Oct 28 2009, 10:11 AM

No problem..

but Other than that.. Rashad is correct.. If anything else it may be the actual electronic sender portion..

but in my experience doing swaps, whenever it hits just the last 4 bars or what not, its usually a snag...

if if its finicky and you go all the way down and all the bars dont go all the way up right after a refill, or something screwy like that.. then that is Def more along the lines of the sender unit portion on the pump housing..

there were even alot of greddy folks having the problem where it would go down to about 4 bars or 3 bars and stay there.. they would run outta gas and didnt know why.. again, turns out it was the filter...

the oem should right on it. if you can find an oem one, then just swap with it.