Hmm, I've never rebuilt a caliper myself. I've always just swapped them outright. Probably not cheaper, but faster (at least in my case). So I'm not much help there

 

Great now I just found out the sliding pins which I have add new grease are not the same. I can't remember which order I put them in since I thought it was all the same when I took both of them out at the same time. One is not round but has flat spots on it. Feel like banging my head on the car now. Lol

 

Here a diy rear caliper rebuild write up
Rear Caliper Rebuild

 

By baking the pads (outdoors) outgasses the pads so that they are ready to use upon installation with on further bedding in required. I used this method for many years on my race cars, as I couldn't drive around on the street. I learned this from a Team enske Mech when I worked for them.

 

By baking the pads (outdoors) outgasses the pads so that they are ready to use upon installation with on further bedding in required. I used this method for many years on my race cars, as I couldn't drive around on the street. I learned this from a Team enske Mech when I worked for them.

 

This is how I've always done it. The speed bleeders make it a one man job instead of needing a helping hand.
I've always heard of doing the furthest from the MC first, but a number of folks around here suggest a different order. RF, LF, LR, RR.
I've done this order twice and been very happy both times.
You don't need a set of brake wrenches just to bleed, but they're definitely necessary for replacing the lines. Just to bleed a standard closed end wrench works fine. For replacing the lines, I think I needed a metric set to remove the old lines and a standard set for the new stainless lines. Definitely double check before you leave the store.
I did mine this weekend (pads, rotors, and fluid) and I think it took ~3 hours with a stock jack. Hardest part was getting the wheels on/off.
I'd be happy to help if Lowell weren't so damn far.

 

Thanks guys for everything. NoDelta where are you from? I pretty much have everything all plan out gonna pick up a one person brake bleeder kit this weekend and few other item for future uses at harbor freight this weekend. Just have to be careful when doing the caliper rebuild those part are still waiting for delivery and the SS brake line came in. Which I was excited minus the money I have put into the car just this month alone and still unable to drive yet..lol BTW if doing furthest from the MC first shouldn't it be in this order RR, LR, RF, LF?

 

I've never rebuilt a caliper before - I`m curious about your experience.

On my older cars, I always start furthest from the caliper.
I thought that once upon a time I heard in ABS cars you can mess up the ABS by bleeding in the wrong order. I have no idea if it's true of not for this car, but I didn't want to take any chances and followed the procedure (which is not furthest first) that I found here.

I live in beautiful downtown Springfield, MA.
It's amazing my car hasn't been stolen yet from the gated/barbed wire fenced lot where I park it.

 

I wouldn't drain the master cylinder. With ABS, etc. it's a given that you will intro duce air into the system that is lengthy to bleed out. Hopefully you are using a good brake fluid such as Wilwood 550. If first time brakes ever being bled, I suggest using a container per wheel.

 

So find out my driver side rear caliper was seized so I got a set of used one off ebay for under $60 off a 2006 model. Wire brush it nice and clean and just waiting for a fresh coat of red paint on it. First picture is how the caliper look like on the right when I received them. [attachment=38989ld caliper.jpg][attachment=38990:_MG_8459.JPG]