Vinny, I'm not sure where you are with this project.

But, for what it's worth, I pulled my copy of the 2000-2007 Honda Service Manual. Page 19-9 says that the bleeding sequence is LF, RF, RR and LR. Exactly opposite of what the sequence is in your post. Also the exact opposite of what I do in my '59 MGA.

I bought the service manual on e-Bay a few years ago. I don't know if they are still out there, but at the time, whenever a new model year rolled out and the technicians received their new service manuals, they sold the old rather than toss it.

 

Blue- Thanks I have the manual in pdf files and I notice that order as well not sure why billman would start from RF, LF, LR, RR but seem like every one follow it and seem to be no problem. I just think as long as your got rid of the air in the system that all it matter but it the right method. So far I have all the new rotors, brake pads and the three stainless steel brake line installed. The side that I have problem with the caliper was the side that I couldn't loose the bolt on the metal brake line that connect to brake line. Try pb blaster didn't work so I guess it would need heat and I don't have a torch so I'm gonna take it to the shop on Monday because one corner of the nut was started to rounded as well. Don't want to make thing worst.

 

Are you using a crescent 10mm wrench or a regular 10mm? I tried with both and the crescent made it so much easier to break loose. I overhauled my whole rear brake setup.
Stop-Tech sport kit included rotors, pads, stainless lines $218
And centric rebuilt calipers at $177 for the pair.

 

Y2K- Where did you pick up the centric rebuilt caliper for the pair at $177 from?

 

From JC Whitney. I trusted it more then partsgeek, was only a little more.
You do have to pay a core charge upfront but its later refunded once you send back the originals. But for the price you really can't beat new!
The core is $183 so my total was $354 upfront