Good point - I agree that most people don't use the bikes for what they're built for, but you really do get what you pay for (and a "relatively" small price increase makes a big difference). The difference in frame build quality, components, and suspension in a $400 bike versus a $1,000 is enough to make the upgrade. My bike is 6 years old and still rides like a dream with a yearly tuneup. It's still as light as newer bikes, and the components are still top of the line. Luckily, I didn't have to spend the $1500 msrp for it, but it was still ~$1000. If I'd gone with my first choice, a $500 bike, I'd probably have bought a new one by now (and far exceeded what I've spent on owning just one). So, if you're really serious about owning a nice mtn bike and using it, go for the F1000. Of course, if you're just using the bike to ride to the video store and back, a huffy works just as well. . .

Second piece of advice - Get a good helmet! Spend the extra $$ and get one that's well ventilated. I had a $30 helmet for about a week. I gave it away and ponied up for a much better one and my sweaty head thanks me for it. Note - all (whatever the new org. is, CPSC??) approved helmets offer the same protection. . . the additional $$ just buys you comfort.

 

get the lockout, you will thank us when you hit a hill late in a long ride.

 

I don't know about that.

There are big differences when you go between $150 "Walmart" bikes, $500 "entry-level" bikes, $800 bikes and the $1200 and up crowd.

I used to own a Fisher Supercaliber back in 1989-1990, and now own a 2001 Stumpjumper (base model w/some upgrades). While I can agree buying a $3000 downhill bike for beach cruising is overkill, I do not compete, jump or race. I trail ride and occasionally commute. The SJ is perfect because mountain bikes are very safe on the streets with the wide, puncture-resistant tires and the bike is built so well that it hardly ever needs repair or adjustment even when I ride it in the dirt a lot. Besides, I really like good, light bikes because you can forget they are even there when you are riding them on long touring rides -- even though I am a fat-ass.

It's also better to overbuy than underbuy. I tried to get my wife into cycling, and all the bikes she ever bought were those sub $150 35+ pound, steel Wal-Mart POS bikes. She didn't believe me when I told her that a decent beginner's bike would cost $500 at a minimum if she wanted to take it on the trails (again, no racing, jumping or stunts). She thought a bike was a bike, and expensive ones were a waste of money. I get her to try a Fisher MB (Tassajara GS, built for women) and after 5 minutes she's totally sold. She said she never thought a bike could be so easy to pedal and stop. I told her that's the bike unless she wanted us to spend another $500 and she could see how nice a sub-20 pound bike felt

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by happs22
Nice, I wonder if he'd remember me.

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by happs22

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by NS2000X

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by NS2000X

 

Well, since we are telling stories...

I bought a $350 GT. It worked OK for what I was doing, but I ended up crashing it doing something stupid. All I did was bend the rear-derallieur hanger (which was integral to the aluminum frame.) The shop was able to repair the bike, but there was no telling how long it would last before it just cracked and fell off.

I ended up upgrading to a Specialized RockHopper Comp A1. I have had it for three years and have had no major problems. (It does have a replaceable deraillieur hanger so I don't have to worry about that again. )